Baruti does familiar in a manner thats new here presenting orris that has been so closely miked that not just every intake of breath is captured but also every rustle of a hair follicle. Or so it seems. For the material is familiar yes, this is waxy, lipsticky orris, but theres an unprecedented fullness and richness to it which to some will come across as almost smothering. Its plumped out by the fruit leather of osmanthus (more leather than fruit in this incarnation), made even more non-porous by dense beeswax and theres a peppery something in the opening that intrigues and agitates in equal measure. Wearing Dama Koupa feels a bit like putting on some factor 50 unguent and theres a passing similarity in terms of pore-clogging potential with Francesca Bianchis Sex and the Sea, though the scent profiles are sufficiently distinct. Dama Koupas disposition is milder, with enough balsamic warmth to hint at a smile. Nonetheless, I cant say that pea-souper irises are my bag.
However, as this is an all-dayer, there is a considerable softening during the course of the wear, with a more benign, floral aspect of this creation being revealed slowly in stages.
I was dumb enough to approach this with great expectations of heliotrope&iris. It takes a lot of conscious sniffing to discern these notes, I ended up smelling like I had marinated myself with strong, dark rum. Which is not a bad thing but I appreciate it much more when sniffing it from a mug on a cold winter day:) Not the most wearable of the line but definitely interesting. Beast longevity, decent projection.
In no way should this be my thing! On paper it looks like a pretty little thing, a sheer and feminine sweet iris. But whoa! This is a little beast! The iris is strong. Not carroty or powdery... but rather more buttery like a good orris. Then there is a huge dose of what I can only guess is bitter almond (maybe from the macaron note?). This is way more edgy and dark than any ordinary almond note. I can only imagine that this is what cyanide would smell like...
In addition, the combination of iris, bitter almond and a hint of osmanthus makes the whole thing smell like my favorite plant, meadowsweet. And that is the intoxicating scent of midsummer nights to me! Pure magic! Longevity is stunning, easily 12 hours, and projection heavy with a noticeable trail.
So yeah, I'm pretty over the moon about this one! But no one seems to agree with me... Reading reviews it looks almost like people are smelling a different perfume than I am. Seems like I get some special magic from this that nobody else seems to get.