Curzon
Geo F Trumper (1882)

A fairly typical woody chypre powerhouse, though better blended than many. As such, Curzon is a complicated smell: that chypre smell of fusty bergamot and mossy patchouli cuts through everything, but the real focus is a mix of honeyed hawthorn and lumber-ish sandalwood. There's also that familiar mix of dank green herbs made famous by Aramis, and a hint of pine tar that gives a hint of leather to the underbelly of the scent.

I have no idea what this smelled like in 1882, but this entire style of perfumery and the ingredients to make it hadn't been invented yet. This is so clearly inspired by Aramis, as well as Derby, Bel Ami, and the like, that it's as 80's as Cyndi Lauper playing with a rubik's cube. That's not a complaint - this is actually quite well done for what it is - but just a point of conversation. Thumbs up.

Spectacular fizzy floral classic (aromatic) eau de cologne and a new entry among the favorite on mine in this olfactory range. George F. Trumper Curzon Cologne sails actually those perfumed "waters" waving in the middle between the classic old school eau de colognes and the "future" upcoming mossy-floral (and...,why not?...also vaguely leathery) aromatic fougeres. The opening is indeed for a while classically "eau de cologne-like" (but by soon arousing a particular orangy-spicy fizziness a la Byredo Mr Marvallous-anyway "coloured" by red berries and forest fruits) with a gorgeous bergamot (a red-berrish, herbal, resinous bergamot conjuring me the Police Dark Man's opening) but the classic approach is shortly working since by soon a dominant (more massive and sweet) oakmoss-ambergris spicy accord starts performing in a way conjuring me more than vaguely fragrances as Enrico Coveri Pour Homme and Givenchy Xeryus. This accord is supported by patchouli (and woods), by a jasmine-geranium (not listed) combo, probably (I'm quite sure) by fir resins, musks-labdanum and by a touch of final suede (I detect indeed a secret rubbery-leathery undertone). A touch of galbanum too? I feel indeed a diaphanous sort of resinous-mossy vibe around (not properly sticky but absolutely musky) along the dry down (which is musky, woody, sweet and resinous). In this final musky-prickly (spicy), earthy (vetiver-patchouli??) and virile (ambergris) phase the fruity-floral influence is more plain (with a sort of red berries-jasmine feel so smooth and suede-like). I suppose a touch of final soothing vanilla (minimal) provides kind of "delicious" softness around. A great fragrance (appointed so far back in the time and magistrally riformulated) anticipating the age of the upcoming virile mossy-fougere.

One of the finest among Geo F Trumper range of eau de colognes. Classic and bold opening of citrus/bergamot, floral notes of geranium, labdanum, them juniper and cumin, on a soft, aromatic, elegant woody base with also tobacco, hay, patchouli, mossy notes and perhaps a hint of vanilla too. Although it is not listed I clearly smell a leather note, which may be an "illusion" given by the mossy-earthy notes but still that is the effect – a noble, dusty, refined leather à la Knize Ten, rich and dark, with a "toasted" feel and a slight animalic-chypre heart, but with a softer and mellow nuance too. Simple, but distinctive, utterly sophisticated (in an "old school" meaning – a "British gentleman" sort of elegance, this meaning also with a hint of relaxed irony). Elegant and austere, but not heavy, on the contrary it's delicate – not light – and with a pleasant, long-lasting drydown mostly comprising patchouli, floral notes and just a bit of leather. Kind of barbershop-vibe drydown in short. One of the most pleasant classic colognes I've ever tried, given the honest price it's definitely worth at least a try.

8,5/10

This is one of my favorite Trumper offerings. A dry, spicy chypre, this has more to do--in my mind--with modern classics like Z-14 than any other scent from the 19th century. The oakmoss, spices and bitter woods in this leather chypre really seem like something from the 1970s--in a good way. It reminds me of another scent I love, Crabtree & Evelyn's Sienna, only drier. Far from being "dandified" like most of the house's other fragrances, this smells very masculine to me. Years ago when I was living in London I used to get my hair cut at Trumper's. Occasionally I would treat myself to an old-fashioned shave after which the barber would ask me which of their aftershaves I would like. When I first asked for Curzon, the surpised barber paused and then said "VERY good choice, Sir!"

Curzon opens with a clean breezy lemon and lime accord which is herbal and soapy. It is light and never overpowers and projects nicely but it does not last for more then three to four hours on my skin.

This one is much more dryer than the other traditional GFT offerings (Wellington, Astor, Marlborough) and unlike the aforementioned ones this one has no real smokiness to it. There is a subtle lavender in the opening and some light sweetness, though nothing too sweet. At the heart the oakmoss takes over with force and you are left with a natural mossy fragrance. Longevity is very short and overall though nice, this one doesn't do much for me.

Today I am briefly testing Trumper's drier, more leathery offerings Astor, Curzon, Eucris and Marlborough together. It took me a few tries to distinguish them.
Curzon is sweeter and woodier, smoke with honey. Drydown is a gentle, Preferred Stock type smoke and wood or incense, with judicious but effective spices. The sweetest of these, but well within reason. Improvement over Floris Elite.

Dry dry dry. Curzon, one of Trumper's original classic scents, is now only available in aftershave form, the cologne having been dropped properly from the cologne range last year (at which point Trumper themselves were claiming it was one of only four scents NOT to have been reformulated from its original incarnation - take that as you will). This is a review for the cologne version, 30 and 50ml bottles and testers of which can still be found in some indie chemists here in the UK. Curzon is like a more subdued Aramis Devin. Surprisingly for a 19th century traditional English frag, Curzon is neither sweet and powdery, nor is it in your face. Opens with some citrus and bitter woods and settles down to a mossy and leathery base, with some very dry herbs all the way through and a hint of patchouli way down at the back. It's the weakest of the "Classic 4" (the other three being Astor, Marlborough and Wellington) in several senses (scentses!) of the word - it has the least longevity and silage, it's the least complex and is the least nice. But it isn't bad and, if you like the idea of Devin but find it way too strong, then Curzon is perfect. It's a safe and conservative traditional frag which is unlikely to offend anyone.

Not bad but nothing to write home about either. Curzon is for the Victorian dandy in you - it's a heady floral masculine with a very strong oakmoss base, which I would assume makes this a chypre. A big, powdery English Lavender note segues into mildly spicy notes and what smells like pine, which is a nice touch but doesn't last long. The drydown is mainly oakmoss with some slightly peppery spice notes. I'm not crazy about the way the oakmoss drydown smells; it smells soggy and musty. Overall, Curzon is just okay, with nothing that really stands out, other than its initial floral headiness and the dour, dreary oakmoss base. It smells very much like a cruder Cerruti 1881, without any of 1881's sparkle or cheerfulness. It smells like it came from the "Dandified Fragrances" recipe book and was thrown together in a rush. I expect better quality from G.F. Trumper than this. MY RATING: 5.5/10

Bergamot, Oakmoss, French Labdanum, Patchouli and Spices.This is quite interesting, although I must admit immediately that I am not interested in buying an actual bottle of this. No, its not THAT interesting and my sample vial will do very nicely with this one.Curzon starts off smelling like some vintage, dated bitter leather chypre with oily structure. There is a huge doze of oakmoss in this scent.Drydown reveals fairly complex developments and changes, and eventually I am able to relate this even to Palais Jamais by Etro. (Although I like PJ much more as it is more natural with much more timeless and versatile feel to it)Btw, I am surprised to see not pine wood lacking from the list of notes. At least I imagine I can smell something very pine-y in this blend.Curzon is a classical woody chypre fragrance heavy on oakmoss. Very easy too detect that vintage-like, overripe bergamot note too that flows all the way from the top to the bottom.Curzon is bitter-green and to my mind hopelessly dated. It smells very natural in way mixed forest smells when its thick and dry growth is seeking desperately some rescuing rain showers after some long bone-dry season.There are much better and more vital fragrances of this kind available.

Sometimes you just want something simple that does exactly what it says on the tin. This is just such a product.After a rather soapy opening, it dried down swiftly and left me feeling clean and fragrant. The longevity was pretty good, and it retained it's class for the remainder of the day.

I love this! Usually I don't like mossy scents but this one is amazing. A combination of traditional cologne and chypre compositions. Classy, dry, oakmoss, lemon, and feels natural. I'd compare this with Paco Rabanne pour Homme. Good stuff.