Neutral Reviews of Cuir Pleine Fleur / Fine Leather 
Heeley (2008)

Average Rating:  8 User Reviews

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Cuir Pleine Fleur / Fine Leather by Heeley

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Reviews of Cuir Pleine Fleur / Fine Leather by Heeley

This is a cool floral fragrance with leathery nuances. The leather note is mostly in the beginning and the mid phase. In the beginning there is a prominent violet leaf note that is combined with a clean, suede-like leather note. This is not far off from Fahrenheit territory; however, the difference is here the leather is cool, subtle, and has none of the petroleum/gasoline association. Any birch tar used has been dialed back significantly. The mimosa is discernible in the mid-phase as the leathery aspect slightly recedes. A note of freshly cut grass comes to the fore. Thereafter the fragrance is subdued and linear on my skin with a dry down that is slightly woody, green, and has the merest hints of the violet leaf and leather accord.

Overall this is a noteworthy composition. Irrespective of the similarities with Fahrenheit, it is also much different. The main point of departure is the cool aloofness, and how the conventional leather-woods aspect is placed in a floral context in an innovative way. The principal drawback is that the fragrance appears too thin beyond the mid phase. Even though it is an EdP, it wears much more like an average EdT. It is severely muted beyond the first hour, and duration is average at around 5-6 hours. A more robust composition with a greater concentration of oils, and more attention to the base would have been most welcome.

Recommended to anyone looking for a fine (mild/subtle/discreet) floral leather which is cool rather than warm, where the floral aspect doesn't dominate the composition, and one that's rather fleeting. It is both chic and hip, discreet, office-friendly, and inoffensive - like most of the Heeley range.


This is interesting, but ultimately didn't win me over. In terms of smell, it would be hard for me to describe it better than previous reviews, so I'll just say that this is a complicated mix that starts off with violets and fennel, passes through a violet leaf and iris stage, before ending up at mentholated iris and vetiver.

It's complicated and, at face value, a well crafted perfume, but it just hasn't made me fall in love. For one, it has a carefully designed coolness, an icy green quality that engulfs the scent. This iced feeling effectively shaves off the rough edginess I'd expect from a leather scent. As a result, it's got an insistent aloofness which is intellectually interesting, but ultimately not endearing to me. Is it possible for a perfume to be disdainful? Perhaps this is a leather scent for people who don't like leathers, or a cool violet leaf scent for people who don't like that sort of thing, but whatever it is, I like it more in theory than in practice.

leather but not raunchy dark stuff, more a light feminine leather with bright florals, low sillage, good duration... for me a full bottle disappointment!

I have been on a violet quest of sorts, and CPF was on my list to try.

It starts with a burst of violets and lilies, which smell fantastic. A green, stemmy note appears which persists into the drydown and base. I can barely detect any leather, or any of the other notes listed. There is an occasional whiff of hay and vetiver, but the overall impression is one of a mixed floral and green note.

This melange does last, at least 4-6 hours, but remains extremely close to the skin. It is pleasurable to catch a whiff of this in passing but the effect lacks enough depth to be satisfying. It comes across as a very personal scent, for the wearer only. I really liked this concept but wanted more, namely a better appreciation of the other notes. It is for this reason alone I cannot justify the cost of a bottle.

The sillage and softness wouldn't bother me if I could just smell more of what was listed in the pyramid. A shame. Looking at the other reviews it is apparent that these notes are there for the lucky few. I envy them that.

Leather...? Really? Is this really a Leather scent? I think not.
A green, floral, vegetable mint (as per notes described by a previous reviewer), seem to suffice as a summation of this one. In fact, it reminds me a bit of my green house, which in all fairness is not an altogether unpleasant smell. Sillage and longevity are also more than decent.
However, if you are looking for a leather-centric fragrance (and that is what I was hoping for when I read the name), you could do a hell of a lot better!

What struck me the most about this scent is its oily quality, giving you a feeling of something almost sticky on your skin. And indeed, Cuire Pleine Fleur does seem to stay there a good amount of time, without giving many signs of life though.

In other words, I perceive this as a respectable and reliable scent, only rather flat and almost apathetic if that's something a fragrance can be.

So..fine leather..leather it is for sure, cant argue with that..but I just wish it were a little less dull and had more life..

Definitely not my cup of tea but will stay neutral just because this is possibly what leather is supposed to smell like..

Heeley just can't put together a fragrance I REALLY like, and it seems that I like offerings of the same category from many other houses. Menthe Fraiche has a sour note that reeks a little too much; Cardinal is far too dry and astringent and and smells like fresh cedar chips and a dash of incense. Cuir Pleine Fleur continues the trend. Good, but just barely. It has some interesting stuff happening very quickly, top & mid notes, and the emphasis changes dramatically, but it's so fast that it's hardly worth describing. The dry-down is in 5 minutes and it is a rather astringent, medicinal fragrance. It is overwhelmingly clove and ginger. Very, very subtle suggestions of leather come & go for the first 10 minutes, but once they're gone, they're gone. You also need a bit of an imagination to smell leather in this at any point. I had to think "leather... leather... leather???..." to experience it. On the "leather fragrance scale" this one is a 1 - it's subtle and you might not even notice it at all if you don't REALLY focus; Aoud Leather is a 10 - it smells like LEATHER, long, strong and hard.Of fragrances that are supposed to have leather, Cuir Pleine Fleur is similar in composition to Cuir Ottoman by Parfum d'Empire - minus the actual leather smell. Given its prominence of clove (by far the strongest component), I'd say this is closer to Clove Absolute by Washington Tremlett than any other leather scent I have smelled. Of course, Clove Absolute does the clove smell far better, it's a rich, almost sticky, and quite delightful fragrance.Despite my complaints - it's NOT a leather scent, it's a clove scent - it is decent. And, strange to say, it would smell nice ON leather, or WITH leather. Perhaps I'll add a few sprays of this to the cloth next time I oil the hyde on my Jag. Overall it's a neutral, good but not great, because it is an OK scent, wearable and elegant, albeit not a leather scent, and not the best clove scent either.

well.... I love the two Heeley scents I own, Cardinal and Menthe Fraiche, but this one... can't do it.This house clearly makes fragrances on an exquisite level; never do I get a whiff of any odd notes. Fine Leather opens with an amazing suede-like leather accord, with florals backing it up... but thats about where the leather starts, and unfortunately stops. This becomes a bit more of a violet scent than a leather. Also, for an eau de parfum, the strength is dim. One of the shops selling this talks about the birch notes, and that is what mingles with the florals VERY soon into the whole experience. I'll give it a thumbs sideways, as it isn't awful, just ain't what I think it should be.

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