The EDT EXCLUSIF tastes of a little of boot Polish and scents yummy on me,in spite of the Adelhydes and Florals. As a male, I find this relies more upon my own musk, than Civet animalic. It proves a winner over the current EDP, in that Chanel seems to have moved to a new woody base for it's Contemporary market.
1970's EDC scents much closer to Etro Gomma with an VERY present animalic.
I've had a sample of Chanel Cuir de Russie that I think was from the 70s or 80s, and it was one of my favorite fragrances ever. Today I'm wearing the Les Exclusifs version of the edt, and it's also nice.
It opens with a blast that immediately brings the smell of a fresh baby to mind. As that association fades, it smells like a feminine leather, a soft red leather, true to its name.
The older version smelled a lot like civet. The newer version is all soft leather.