Cravache
Robert Piguet (1963)

Elegance bottled.

The citruses are tempered well with lavender and clary sage, making this such a delight to the nose. I somehow pick up an anisic quality in the heart, perhaps the interaction between the nutmeg and the other elements, while the dry down is reminiscent of sun-dried grasses and herbs.

This reminds me of an effort at Cartier Declaration. In contrast it is more lemony and the 'dirty earthy' component is replaced by a dirty spa tissue paper bordering on barbershop vibe. Remains quite sharp and linear although eventually becomes unbearably powder puff verging on scrubber.
Not for me but if you like this kind of thing worth a try.

Fragrance: 6/10
Projection: 7/10
Longevity: 7/10

The word cravache means several things in French: its a riding crop, and as a verb it means to slog away at something thats tedious and hard work; both meanings apply here.

There is a smack of incense at the top, but this by itself is not enough to gee up a determinedly staid profile of woody bergamot and lavender, its dowdy brown-orange colouring in desperate need of the brightness that citrus's would bring.

Its difficult to make out, but more than that Cravache is also poorly structured. There's nothing to connect its amorphous woody mass with the the flying whiplash poised overhead; again, a place for citrus - and conventionally - aromatics could have been found here.

À la cravache means to drive flat out, but this is a freeze frame not a movie. Its like something you might come across in an old print of a stagecoach going full tilt across the page, the coachman forever whipping on his horses but never making contact with their hides, their legs never moving and the wheels not going round; Cravache is linear, static.

The last meaning is to be ruthless - like the critic excoriating a perfume completely undeserving of its risqué name, there being nothing even remotely snappy - never mind sadistic - about this dowdy juice that lacks character and coherence and ultimately goes nowhere.

**

I love Lavender because it calms me. Cravache by Robert Piguet does exactly that, calms me. This fragrance is just elegant and not overpowering. It is great for the office. I will be wearing it very often.

Genre: Citrus

Notes: mandarin, petitgrain, lemon, clary sage, lavender, patchouli, nutmeg, vetiver.

The latest incarnation of Cravache has been criticized harshly for not being the original, but taken on its own merits, it's not a bad scent. The opening is a pleasantly bitter-tart accord of lemon and petitgrain, over which builds an intensely aromatic arrangement that aligns loosely with citrus-chypre styled classics like Eau Sauvage and Chanel Pour Monsieur. It's richer and heavier than a traditional eau de Cologne, but neither mossy enough to read as a chypre nor sweet enough to feel like a fougère.

The aromatic and citrus core is darkened somewhat over time by a distinct but pleasantly natural nutmeg note and a vetiver which leans a little bit toward licorice. The whole composition hums along at moderate intensity and without much further evolution for perhaps four hours before entering its vetiver-based woody drydown. While Cravache is pleasant and dignified at every stage, there's nothing remarkable about it. In a line that includes Fracas, Bandit, Futur, and Visa, Cravache smells disappointingly timid – maybe even faceless. It's a comfortable scent, to be sure, but among the more substantial alternatives to a classic eau de Cologne, Eau Sauvage, Cristalle, Eau de Rochas, Eau de Guerlain, and Eau de Cartier all leave Cravache feeling dull by comparison.

Robert Piquet - Cravache
I was surprised with this one - its actually a reformulation that is done very well, in my opinion. Its a perfume with a subtle and 'classic' scent-profile that nevertheless smells modern and original. It keeps a green-spicy, dirty note till in its dryout and bares a light, collected and airy feel with a mystical touch to itself; that is especially suitable for a sunny day when you have the day to yourself and can do what you like, without any rush. Its a fresh, relaxed and at the same time very alert perfume that keeps its focus right on the heart of the moment of things. The original must have had much more leather-base, although this one has a slight smoky, brushed-off leathery touch in it, just enough to give it a certain 'tension' and grip.
It starts with a very peppery-fresh, dirty-spicy(nutmeg) intro of hesperides, sourish lemon, bergamot and petitgrain - with a herbal-greenish note - that fits the vetiver and the clary sage, which reminded me of thyme with a touch of spearmint. Lavender brings in softness, pine accentuates the greenness, and there is some rosemary and some oiliness that reminds of orangeblossom, and a very slight floral hint of rose in the background. Its dryout is a combination of upfront spicy-musty nutmeg, a clean rawish vetiver and a polished patchouli, with the suggestion of an oakmoss-softness; that altogether still smells lively, airy and transparent.
Cravache is an honest, introvert and 'simple' smelling perfume with a bite - like a cologne with a twist, and has a great balance of warmth and coolness. My only complaint is that it doesn't last very long and gets a bit 'tasteless' and dull, but then I don't mind to spray this one more time - and again, and again... Good, potent stuff, that deserves more attention.