Chypre d'Orient
Molinard (2007)

There was a time when Chypre d'Orient could be bought for a song and so satisfying for its price: complex, classical, and marvelously tweedy and bygone in feel. However, it's been discontinued for some time and now fetches a pretty penny. Be that as it may, if you have a chunk of change and want to experience a somewhat fresher, more modern interpretation of a Coty-style chypre, this would tickle your fancy.

How this differs is in its osmanthus note: not quite all-the-way apricot, not leathery chunky absolute, but more ethereal and ambrosial like the blossoms. There is an interplay between this and the galbanum and citrus, predicated by its dry, musky, mossy base. Over time, it grows more mellow and savory, perhaps due to the patchouli and some vetiver, rendering it more masculine, albeit not brutish. For some reason, it reminds me of strawflowers, not that they necessarily have a smell of their own, but this is how I would imagine them to smell if they did.

I am wearing this squarely in what I consider the perfect time of the year for it, late October, just as the leaves really begin to fall here in New England and chill is felt in the air. It's time to snuggle in...

If Chypre d'Orient was a lady, she would be an upper class, who always wears pantyhose, wouldn't dream of swearing or smoking in company. You would find her having afternoon tea rather than drinking pints and ending up drunk with her knickers showing at the end of the night. But she is no prude and underneath her clothes, she is wearing some Agent Provocateur. A sexy lady in a refined and secret way.

A perfect blend of sensuous and brisk notes. dry, earthy, sexual, strong, not sweet or cheerful but intelligent and full of life. The opening is zingy blast of citrus, then the lingering top is softned with some jasmine and the tiniest bit of rose.the florals are gentle and delucate. Finally the dry down sweeps the perfume up to a gorgeous earthy with rich oakmoss and patchouli. It is classic and coming from the 80s when women wanted to look like women and not like teenagers. If your skin makes a better combination with this scent it could be magical on you.

A classic chypre formula - this one almost duplicates the Coty 1983 re-formulation of their Chypre - which had nothing in common with their original, but was on its own, perfectly lovely.

The overall effect I get is that of crushed caraway seed floating over a complex floral/animalic base that is sophisticated and very very sexy.

The patchouli, oakmoss, musk and amber base opens like a flower, giving the impression of the no longer available civet and castoreum.

A really really fine creation.

And so affordable!!!!

I once heard that this was the 'poor man's Mitsouko', not so, it is a wonderful treasure, and a must have always for me - I use it every day!

How gorgeous and feminine is this?

A beautiful citrus, floral, fruity chypre which I bought blind based on reviews and a bargain price and which I think may well be a staple of my wardrobe from now on. I too can feel old Dior in this one, which is great because Dior have forgotten how to do the old Dior and that's a great shame because old Dior is wonderful.

Edgy niche perfume may have its place and the right time of day and circumstances in which it's worn, but this is the sort of perfume which wouldn't smell out of place no matter what the weather or occasion.