Green. White. Light. Powder. Cream. Soap. An impeccable white dress (or crisp linen suit) with a green sash or tie. The overall impression of Chant d'Aromes is that this is an offering crystalized in mid-century trends, a sunny, girlish (but refined) assortment of white honeysuckle florals, fruits, powder, musks, moss and aldehydes all found in many classic perfume and soaps of the 50s and 60s and because of this Chant d'Aromes smells "familiar". It smells like someone you used to know. It smells of childhood baths, chic hotels and inns and expensive soap.
However despite it on the surface being a quick head turn scent of "Wait I know you," it is indeed a Guerlain even at first spray and I can sense it directly connected with spiders silk and sharing notes (Guerlain aldehydes and Guerlainade? That Guerlain powder! Light whiffs of incense) to other vintage Guerlain offerings like Vetiver (this connection is surprisingly strong), Habit Rogue and as others noted perhaps most, Mitsouko, and perhaps the most obvious to me, Vol de Nuit.
People frequently lump L'Heure Bleu and Misouko with Shalimar as a trio but I associate Mitsouko with Vol de Nuit more. Vol de Nuit is Mitsouko's slightly underrated crisper no nonsense daughter, and Chant D'Aromes is in turn Vol de Nuit's chic sunnier, fresher, if a bit ditsy and flighty daughter or granddaughter.
When I realized the similarity to these other favorites it became a liberal sprayer, due to being as people noted, this pseudo-chypre quick to skip away cheerily. Is she as "accomplished" or as daring as her relatives? No, but she's absolutely beautiful.
While Mistouko remains enigmatic, her kin here is truly more feminine and while I was able to wear it as a man without comment from others, it may run sweet and absolutely prim on many people. Amazing on clothes and linens. Aptly to be compared to a European actress of the period romping around in a sundress, throw it in the fridge and use it as a day mist for hot summer days.
A sweet fruitiness greets me from the first moments on. There is the honeysuckle, with is given additional sweetness by the hesperidic undertone, and there is the mirabelle impression. Very pleasant and never heavy.
A fresh glimpse of heliotropes marks the beginning of the drydown, which is dominated by a floral bunch. A lovely gardenia, whiffs of muguet, and a very beautiful traditional jasmine impression are forged together by the unifying force of an ylang-ylang that is creamy in the lighter and elegant way; more cream puff than heavy and rich creaminess. At times a darker restrained spiciness of green cloves counterbalances the floral power. Even at the pivot of floral intensity this mix is never overly sweet or cloying.
A vanilla in conjunction with whiffs of tonka carries the sweeter element into the later stages, but soon other elements claim their due. A restrained oakmoss is noteworthy, but is is applied lightly without veering towards the screechy or sharp. An equally restrained benzoin is added, but the main dark shadow comes from some musks. The later are, again not very intense and contribute to the whole without dominating it. There is a smooth sandalwood present - although it can be a bit too lightly applied at times. Touches of vetiver can be traced now and then, but it lack any earthiness and is more of a perfunctory nature on me.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection and an impressive ten hours of longevity on my skin.
This autumnal delight is a complex composition that balances its components beautifully. The quality of the ingredients is very high, and the blending is superb. Traditional, elegant, confident and well-rounded, this fragrance suits many occasions. 3.75/5.
Vintage... I can't say I definitively know what hesperidic notes are; all I know is, they remind me of aldehydes. And here, they are lovely. The plum note, in my bottle is long gone. The honeysuckle is going strong though...
I don't really smell any gardenia here - it is mainly light jasmine, strong ylang, and a hint of clove, in the heart. No matter - I can take or leave gardenia. My mom loved it, which is why she bought this, many years ago.
The somewhat darkish, non-sugary, floral vibe continues for quite some time... On to the beauty of the base; notes meld together, not revealing much individually. They are a classic Guerlain concoction. Oak-mossy, slightly incense-like, stunning. Slight greenness as well later. A classic perfume...
The more modern version, has a more bright opening, more "bubbles", fresher. [thanks PL !]...
The opening, with the Adelhydic citrus is just Peachy.
Very quickly that burns off to a Waxy Lactonic Soap.
Hey! Isn't that a Soap from childhood.
Nice,nostalgic White Floral of.........P&G "Pure" Ivory Soap.
Rather boring really, as it was the Standard Bar Soap at home.
It was always a treat to go one Granny's place for the Cashmere and the other with Pear's Castile.
Or "Cor!" Major score was Grandad's secret stash of Cusson's Imperial.
This has been called a hard fragrance to describe. Indeed I applied it and is smelled like beauty soap. I loved the scent, but couldn't describe it more than soap. I applied some more, and there is a floral and white musk that causes the soapiness. The only problem I have with it is it's longevity. Non-existant on my skin. Perhaps if I sprayed it on thickly, but it disappears within minutes. A shame b/c it does smell lovely.
This is a lovely smelling perfume that reminds me of elegant women from when I was a kid growing up in the '70s and '80s. Unsurprisingly, the listed notes include some greatest hits: honeysuckle, jasmine, sandalwood, oak moss, and vanilla. In 2017, I find it unisex.
Remember the episode of Seinfeld where Jerry dates the woman who only sometimes looks pretty ("She's a two-face!")? Something about Chant d'Arômes inspires a similar response. On one sniff, it's a just a very good white floral; and then on another, it's a tantilizing, honeyed, creamy, radiant dance of nectarine and peach blossom. You could write this off as inconsistency, or you could enjoy the ride. I'm going with the latter.
My bottle of EdT came from a stash I found at my parent's house. It was my mother's, still sealed in its gold and black box with a batch code dating it to 1998. The top notes may be a little bruised: they're definitely spicy rather than citrusy. However, that spicy start shifts to an intense, bitter carnation that settles down into a gorgeous but still delicate sunrise of slightly acidic peach tinged with just a little green bitterness. I know Luca Turin describes the mid-2000 formulation as a "tender floral," but this version gives off the tea-like tannins of a real chypre. Its sillage is best described as glowing--exactly right for the soft palette of colors suggested by its scent.
Every time I wear this fragrance, I mentally bow down to the perfumers at Guerlain. This is a perfectly crafted perfume for quiet moments, something made for personal enjoyment rather than grand entrances or planned seductions. I still haven't smelled the current formulation. I'm sure I'll like it: I don't spend much time crying over the spilled milk of reformulation. But this was my first real vintage treasure, and I'm glad it's such a gentle creature.
This is a really interesting perfume. I've tested this one at Sephora more than once, and every time I try it I feel a different way about it! At one point I thought I wasn't crazy about "Chant D'Aromes", but then another time I tried it again and thought, "this is actually kind of nice." Also, every time I try it from the tester bottle in the store I can never clearly remember what it smelled like later! So, I never wrote a review of this one. Now, I finally got around to actually getting a sample to try at home.
I definitely like this perfume! :) When you first spray this one on, it has a lot of aldehydes in the top notes which are quite soapy and sharp, and I wasn't sure how I felt about that! But, when this perfume dries down a bit, it has a lovely sweet and slightly woody-green and spicy scent. I would say the main note that predominates is probably the honeysuckle, which is just beautiful! I can also definitely smell the cloves in heart notes as well, making it overall a very sweet, warm and slightly spicy scent. I feel I should probably clarify that I'm testing a modern EDT version of this fragrance, not the vintage perfume. I love it though! Compared to the Annick Goutal floral perfume I tested yesterday (which I was extremely disappointed with), I think Chant D'Aromes is great! I would definitely wear this, and might even buy a bottle! I feel that it is quite unique among floral perfumes though, so I'm not sure about recommending it. Definitely try this one before you buy it! Personally, I love it though!
Chant dArômes is an assertively pretty peaches-and-cream floral on top, with a clean, green underpinning and a solid dose of aldehydes. Cream eventually overtakes the peaches, so that after a few minutes on the skin Chant dArômes is less a fruity floral than a very soft textured, pale, aldehydic bouquet with a dab of vanilla on top. Bright, chaste, and innocent are words that come to mind as I inhale it. In fact, Chant dArômes is what my young daughter would refer to as a girly-girl fragrance.
It doesnt take too long for the creamy vanilla in Chant dArômes to rise to prominence, and within a hour I find that it dominates the composition. Whatever chypre element there might be buried at the core of Chant dArômes escapes my nose completely. For me what remains is rather dull, and lacking in the complexity and sophistication I expect out of a successful Guerlain composition. Not, in the end, the best that this house has to offer.
Light green citrus floral This Guerlain floral is a very light concoction that begins with a burst of citrus (mandarin) and then settles down to a green, slightly minty, fragrance, that wears very close to the skin. I would not call it a chypre, even though it has the necessary ingredients, simply because it doesn't smell like a chypre. Citrus floral would be my categorization. There are 15 ingredients: mandarin, bergamot, honeysuckle, gardenia, jasmine, lilac, ylang ylang, oakmoss, vetiver, musk, olibanum, vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood, cedarwood. I do not find it remarkable in any way.Pros: Light and freshCons: Fades quickly
Luca Turin calls this a tender floral instead of a chypre and I would have to agree after wearing it. This fabulous perfume was quoted by LT in "Perfumes: The Guide" as " The original (1962) Jean-Paul Guerlain's first fragrance after the retirement of his father, Jacques, and was a light, powdery-peachy confection strongly suggestive of a fresh start and making a clean break with the past". Unfortunately for me I did not catch a sniff of peach during the opening with so much going on. I did get a strong wiff of aldehydes, a moderate amount of Galbadnum , Gardenia and fruits. I know what Mirabelle is, but have never sniffed it ,so, I could not verify smelling it. I suddenly recognized a fragrance I am very familiar with and realize the opening reminds me of Mitsouko! Very surprising and it made it clear why I was loving Chant De Aromes because I love Mitsouko.
After 15 minutes or so, I began to get a powdery accord coming through. I could smell a slight bit of rose, a heavier amount of honeysuckle and Ylang-Ylang, hence the powdery accord.
The sillage is at it's highest at this point.
An hour into sniffing Chant De Aromes, I could smell a light note of galbadnum, a little vetiver and moss, a heavier amount of musk and helitrope. The sillage has dropped down to a skin scent by now. The total longevity on my skin is only about 3.5 hours which I would say is average because I'm not sure of the concentration of this perfume. It is a beautiful perfume that is not cloying or over done. It is a perfect example of what some of the earlier Guerlains can be, which is magnificent! It is not found at all Guerlain counters, usually the boutiques and higher end stores may carry it and if you get a chance to try it, do so!
I never know what to make of Chant dAromes. It seems more of a powdery, aldehydic, lactonic floral than a true chypre. Yet the hint of a chypre base, more vetiver than moss, combined with the remnant of the peachy lactone of equal duration, is the only part of much interest. And this final bit is so faint I have to strain to make it out.
The powdery, indistinct opening used to give me a bit of hope that maybe the diaphanous air might coalesce into something haunting or interesting as Vol de Nuit does with its cant-put-my-finger-on-it top notes. Unfortunately, the undefined but pleasant opening grows increasingly vague. Chant dAromes seems clean in that its blandly unadulterated, but not heightened or expansive like the best floral aldehydes. Despite aldehydic perfumes often being considered old-ladyish, theres just something more girlish than womanly about CdA. Not so much naïve as inexperienced. Its as if CdA could be any other indistinct designer sweet floral fragrance with a bit of aldehyde added.
CdA has a pretty smile, but not a lot of chat. Equally undemanding and unrewarding.
Wow! What a sleeper this is! I love the Guerlain pre-2000 offerings; each is singular and well conceived. Although I haven't sampled all of "the 194", I've had some acqaintance with many of the pre-WW II fragrances and virtually all of the post-war offerings --- except Chant d'Aromes.
This one got away from me because, frankly, I've never seen it at a retail counter. Last week, I acquired a decant of the (now very rare) parfum extrait. Unlike the traditonal high decibel Guerlain offerings, this one whispers and -- man -- this is more than sweet nothings.
I can see why CdA never took off: It is SO subtle that you can almost miss it. This is not a choice for winter/fall. But in the warmth of the spring sun, this one is singular, remarkably rich, complex and soft at the same time. This fragrance story reminds me of Amie's creation -- Jicky -- and how it first floated like a lead ballon; unfortunately CdA never recovered like Jiky did. But like Jicky, CdA whispers the most intimate messages. I believe Chant d'Aromes is a hidden classic.
In the warmth of the sun, CdA sings arias of plum, honeysuckle and oakmoss. This is a diminutive chypre that has few equals, IMO. I'm glad we found each other; I regret she (the extrait) is no longer resident in the House of Guerlain. I don't imagine that the EDT comes anywhere near it.
Goes on light and bright, citrus and aldehydes, transforming quickly into what is, to my nose, EXACTLY Mitsouko's cream/peach undecalactone top, with only the lightest underpinnings of a chypre base. If it stayed there, I would enjoy it as a pleasant, though subtle skin scent. Mitsouko is hard for me to wear, and this gentler version is lovely. Sadly, if fades to nearly nothing very fast (45 minutes) until my skin smells no more distinct or interesting than if I had washed it with a lightly floral soap several hours before. I understand that it's been reformulated a few times -- I'd love to smell a vintage version and see if it had more bones. I'll give it a neutral because there's nothing offensive about it, but at this rate I don't know if I'll even bother to finish the sample.
This bright and refreshing chypre one of the most wearable you'll find! True enough, it is soft, pale, delicate, gentle, etc. Precisely the characteristic that makes this chypre a stand-out in its' class. I personally have trouble wearing Mitsouko, and also a few other classic, heavier chypres. Chant d'Aromes joins the ranks of "modern chypre" (alongside Chanel 31 Rue Cambon) in spite of the fact it was launched in 1962! Ayala has superbly deconstructed this fragrance in her commentary, I cannot think of any better words to Cd'A. Thumbs up.
Whereas it is nice floral that goes on strong at the start, it fades to nothing Very, VERY quickly. What gets me is the base - it is soooo very unremarkable, which is absolutely shocking to me as I am a HUGE Guerlain fan. All I can say is that it is a major disappointment.
In addition to an inability to detect orris root (iris), I believe I may also be "blind" to honeysuckle, which might explain why so little translated to me from Chant d'Aromes. A truly sour opening, bland heart and forgettable base, forces me to turn thumb down.
On me the EDT is musky without body. It's too bad because if it had some body it has potential to be one of my favorites. The EDT doesn't last long either. Overall, this one was a HUGE DISAPPOINTMENT for me.
This early and somewhat innocent creation of Jean-Paul Guerlain, Chant dAromes interestingly echoes the masterpiece by Jacques Guerlain - Vol de Nuit.Chant dAromes is a delicate floral with subtle, woody-chypre undertones.Noticeably, Chant dAromes has a uniform impression that is carried out throughout the different phases (that is not at all to say that it is a linear fragrance) - the beautiful floral heart notes are apparent from the first stage of the perfume, and gradually mellow down and lead into the more woody, mossy notes.It immediately reminds me of spring, and of delicate, miniature and frilly garden blossoms - white and cream coloured, primarily honeysuckle, supported by fresh, morning-dew blossoms of gardenia and jasmine - (not the heavy, intoxicating night blooming white blossoms with the tropical fruitiness). The top notes of mandarin, bergamot and peach are only there for a few moments, to introduce the luscious, dew-laden floralness, and disappear with no trace.This beautiful floral heart gradually reveals some more warmth, just like a fresh garden gradually warmed up by the gentle rays of sun.To its delicate sweetness there is now some added powderiness, from orris root and the unfolding cedarwood base notes.It gradually deepens, with a velvety touch of oakmoss, and very minute amount of vetiver, that is light but adds a tiny bit of warm woodiness, along with transparent musk and frankincense notes, and a hint of the almond-like Guerlinade tonka bean accord.The EDT is true to the parfum, but requires many reapplications. The parfum is not much heavier, just slightly richer and most significantly - has a more satisfactory staying power. Top notes: Peach, Bergamot, MandarinHeart notes: Gardenia, Honeysuckle, Jasmine, Orris rootBase notes: Cedarwood, Musk, Oakmoss, Frankincense, Vetiver, Tonka bean
This early and somewhat innocent creation of Jean-Paul Guerlain, Chant díAromes interestingly echoes the masterpiece by Jacques Guerlain ñ Vol de Nuit.Chant díAromes is a delicate floral with subtle, woody-chypre undertones.Noticeably, Chant díAromes has a uniform impression that is carried out throughout the different phases (that is not at all to say that it is a linear fragrance) ñ the beautiful floral heart notes are apparent from the first stage of the perfume, and gradually mellow down and lead into the more woody, mossy notes.It immediately reminds me of spring, and of delicate, miniature and frilly garden blossoms - white and cream coloured, primarily honeysuckle, supported by fresh, morning-dew blossoms of gardenia and jasmine ñ (not the heavy, intoxicating night blooming white blossoms with the tropical fruitiness). The top notes of mandarin, bergamot and peach are only there for a few moments, to introduce the luscious, dew-laden floralness, and disappear with no traceÖThis beautiful floral heart gradually reveals some more warmth, just like a fresh garden gradually warmed up by the gentle rays of sun.To its delicate sweetness there is now some added powderiness, from orris root and the unfolding cedarwood base notes.It gradually deepens, with a velvety touch of oakmoss, and very minute amount of vetiver, that is light but adds a tiny bit of warm woodiness, along with transparent musk and frankincense notes, and a hint of the almond-like Guerlinade tonka bean accord.The EDT is true to the parfum, but requires many reapplications. The parfum is not much heavier, just slightly richer and most significantly ñ has a more satisfactory staying power. Top notes: Peach, Bergamot, MandarinHeart notes: Gardenia, Honeysuckle, Jasmine, Orris rootBase notes: Cedarwood, Musk, Oakmoss, Frankincense, Vetiver, Tonka bean