Green. White. Light. Powder. Cream. Soap. An impeccable white dress (or crisp linen suit) with a green sash or tie. The overall impression of Chant d'Aromes is that this is an offering crystalized in mid-century trends, a sunny, girlish (but refined) assortment of white honeysuckle florals, fruits, powder, musks, moss and aldehydes all found in many classic perfume and soaps of the 50s and 60s and because of this Chant d'Aromes smells "familiar". It smells like someone you used to know. It smells of childhood baths, chic hotels and inns and expensive soap.
However despite it on the surface being a quick head turn scent of "Wait I know you," it is indeed a Guerlain even at first spray and I can sense it directly connected with spiders silk and sharing notes (Guerlain aldehydes and Guerlainade? That Guerlain powder! Light whiffs of incense) to other vintage Guerlain offerings like Vetiver (this connection is surprisingly strong), Habit Rogue and as others noted perhaps most, Mitsouko, and perhaps the most obvious to me, Vol de Nuit.
People frequently lump L'Heure Bleu and Misouko with Shalimar as a trio but I associate Mitsouko with Vol de Nuit more. Vol de Nuit is Mitsouko's slightly underrated crisper no nonsense daughter, and Chant D'Aromes is in turn Vol de Nuit's chic sunnier, fresher, if a bit ditsy and flighty daughter or granddaughter.
When I realized the similarity to these other favorites it became a liberal sprayer, due to being as people noted, this pseudo-chypre quick to skip away cheerily. Is she as "accomplished" or as daring as her relatives? No, but she's absolutely beautiful.
While Mistouko remains enigmatic, her kin here is truly more feminine and while I was able to wear it as a man without comment from others, it may run sweet and absolutely prim on many people. Amazing on clothes and linens. Aptly to be compared to a European actress of the period romping around in a sundress, throw it in the fridge and use it as a day mist for hot summer days.
A sweet fruitiness greets me from the first moments on. There is the honeysuckle, with is given additional sweetness by the hesperidic undertone, and there is the mirabelle impression. Very pleasant and never heavy.
A fresh glimpse of heliotropes marks the beginning of the drydown, which is dominated by a floral bunch. A lovely gardenia, whiffs of muguet, and a very beautiful traditional jasmine impression are forged together by the unifying force of an ylang-ylang that is creamy in the lighter and elegant way; more cream puff than heavy and rich creaminess. At times a darker restrained spiciness of green cloves counterbalances the floral power. Even at the pivot of floral intensity this mix is never overly sweet or cloying.
A vanilla in conjunction with whiffs of tonka carries the sweeter element into the later stages, but soon other elements claim their due. A restrained oakmoss is noteworthy, but is is applied lightly without veering towards the screechy or sharp. An equally restrained benzoin is added, but the main dark shadow comes from some musks. The later are, again not very intense and contribute to the whole without dominating it. There is a smooth sandalwood present - although it can be a bit too lightly applied at times. Touches of vetiver can be traced now and then, but it lack any earthiness and is more of a perfunctory nature on me.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection and an impressive ten hours of longevity on my skin.
This autumnal delight is a complex composition that balances its components beautifully. The quality of the ingredients is very high, and the blending is superb. Traditional, elegant, confident and well-rounded, this fragrance suits many occasions. 3.75/5.
Vintage... I can't say I definitively know what hesperidic notes are; all I know is, they remind me of aldehydes. And here, they are lovely. The plum note, in my bottle is long gone. The honeysuckle is going strong though...
I don't really smell any gardenia here - it is mainly light jasmine, strong ylang, and a hint of clove, in the heart. No matter - I can take or leave gardenia. My mom loved it, which is why she bought this, many years ago.
The somewhat darkish, non-sugary, floral vibe continues for quite some time... On to the beauty of the base; notes meld together, not revealing much individually. They are a classic Guerlain concoction. Oak-mossy, slightly incense-like, stunning. Slight greenness as well later. A classic perfume...
The more modern version, has a more bright opening, more "bubbles", fresher. [thanks PL !]...
The opening, with the Adelhydic citrus is just Peachy.
Very quickly that burns off to a Waxy Lactonic Soap.
Hey! Isn't that a Soap from childhood.
Nice,nostalgic White Floral of.........P&G "Pure" Ivory Soap.
Rather boring really, as it was the Standard Bar Soap at home.
It was always a treat to go one Granny's place for the Cashmere and the other with Pear's Castile.
Or "Cor!" Major score was Grandad's secret stash of Cusson's Imperial.
This has been called a hard fragrance to describe. Indeed I applied it and is smelled like beauty soap. I loved the scent, but couldn't describe it more than soap. I applied some more, and there is a floral and white musk that causes the soapiness. The only problem I have with it is it's longevity. Non-existant on my skin. Perhaps if I sprayed it on thickly, but it disappears within minutes. A shame b/c it does smell lovely.
This is a lovely smelling perfume that reminds me of elegant women from when I was a kid growing up in the '70s and '80s. Unsurprisingly, the listed notes include some greatest hits: honeysuckle, jasmine, sandalwood, oak moss, and vanilla. In 2017, I find it unisex.