Casbah
Robert Piguet (2012)

Casbah has become something of a modest classic since its release, and in a world full of incense perfumes, what is most notable about it is its relative conservatism and simplicity.

This is no cloud emenating from a censer, but light smoke trailing through fresh greenery, accented with just a hint of abstracted sweetness. It's an incense scent perfect for gardeners.

I think I'm not wrong in saying that Piguet's Casbah is the most famous incense in the world of perfumery; and with good reason I would add. The incensed note is ecclesiastical, but is supported by a base of green (artemisia) and woody notes that dilute its sacredness and make it wearable and very versatile (at least, in relation to the genre). Let me be clear, the incense note is there and it is very strong, prominent for sure, but it is adequately accompanied and therefore works in an orchestra rather than as a soloist. To my nose it looks more like Jovoy's incense than Sorcinelli's (both very nice to me). The duration and the trail are truly remarkable, both considering the genre and as an absolute datum, we are in fact about 7 hours on the skin with an important projection/trail for at least the first 2 hours; then it settles on the skin but still remains perceptible at medium distance. On clothes it lasts for days.
I really like incense as a smell, but of incense perfumes (canonically understood) I only have Casbah because it's so particular as a note that I can't use it often, so a single perfume is more than enough; and then,
having to choose one and only one, I say without hesitation "Casbah of Piguet".

I found a white label bottle and was smitten upon first spray: I visualize the colors deep green and burgundy and the wafts are rich and hypnotic to my nose.

In the opening, I am greeted with musky, earthy angelica, black pepper, and a notable liturgical smoke with sweeter overtones of tobacco.

This dries down to a persistent incense heart that has become woodier and more coniferous, somewhat damp but also paradoxically dusty. A deep, abundant red cedar note is detected as well.

In the base, it is evident that the woody amber aromachem Norlimbanol is used, albeit tastefully so, to extend the incense sensation. This is accompanied by vetiver and cola-like myrrh resin (which is not listed as a note).

I am thrilled to have this in my possession just in time for the cool autumn nights just around the corner.

So much incense and there is no escape. You must love incense to love this, it's not for me. It's incense and pepper and smoke and I need a silver happy lining to it to balance it out for my taste.

The incense field is so crowded by giants (Cardinal, Avignon, LAVS) that it's difficult to carve out a spot. Casbah manages, just about, by clothing the hollow, Coca-Cola-ish effervescence of Avignon in a haze of dark, peppery...not smoke, exactly, but something like the grey fog of dry ice. I find this to be much richer than Cardinal (with its papery benzoin and fresh linen) and much drier than the sweet, fizzy, soda-soap that is Montale's Full Incense. Drilling down into the detail, Casbah also has a curiously antiseptic thread running through it, but subtle, like the rubbery turn of a hospital gurney against a freshly-sluiced floor rather than full-out disinfectant. This isn't due to any ghost 'oud' note, but to an organic fudge of spices and herbs like angelica and nutmeg. I like its medieval darkness and grunginess. It's not pretty or uplifting. In fact, this is more like one of Santa Maria Novella's older, less photo-ready concoctions than a Piguet. I feel a layering with my Marescialla coming on.

Bubbly bursts of angelica, black pepper, and I can smell the vetiver already. Cool. Dry. Not long after the top notes, I detect incense and tobacco. Very dark. Very smoky. It becomes an almost industrial or garage accord. New tire smell. Cedar underneath. Very masculine. Good for cool autumn or winter.