A fougère from a time when the position of Western Male at the Top of the Heap was more or less assured (for better or for worse) and his perfume didn’t have to work too hard.
Burberrys for Men was released in 1981, the year that Indiana Jones ran rings round the Gestapo to secure the Holy of Holies in Raiders of the Lost Ark. But that’s not to say this is a complacent old fougère living on War Stories, there’s a piquant touch that perks it up in a most contemporary way.
1981 was the year in which the ZX81 and IBM Personal Computers were released, and the first Stealth Plane took to the air; so you can see, it was a year that was foundational in ways that were less significant than the emergence of a new style of Men’s Cologne.
But, coming back to our topic in hand.
Burberrys for Men is piquant, but it isn’t like today’s generation of savages where everything is stuffed with aggressive chemicals. It uses nothing more invasive than juniper, black pepper and some green notes.
It’s a more or less standard fougère with piquant, herbal-green, and dark woody elements, and crucially, it also uses the key anisic note of Azzaro pour Homme (1978).
It is fair to criticise Burberrys as a peppery Azzaro clone, but I find it's quite well done (even if a bit of a Powerhouse).
It’s very modern for its time and it seems to be a transition away from the late seventies fougére (which was dominated by Azzaro) and towards something more penetrating. The dark and woody-peppery style anticipates the Spiky Woods, which is still a dominant masculine trope today.
In fact I would argue it’s one of the steps on the way towards the Spiky Woods. But unlike many of today’s masculines, Burberrys has some of the urbane chic that the fougère always aimed for - but often failed to capture, and the vibrant modern feel of the Spiky Woods - but without the drawbacks.
A classic, refined and gentlemanly leather scent, perhaps the best Burberry has ever made for men.
Moderate projection and reasonable silage for a few hours (in both the after shave and the cologne), after which this stays close to the skin.
The opening reminds me of Bogart Pour Homme (1975) but this lacks the green and smoky power of Bogart's first opus as it is ultimately a classical leather scent, undoubted manly but without loudly proclaiming its virility in the same way as Knize 10 or Moschino Pour Homme do.
I pick up very little in the way of floral notes in this, although I acknowledge that my 30 year old bottles may have deteriorated over time, but the earthy moss, subtle musk and irresistible leather base are still very pronounced and the combination equates to a nigh on 40 year old composition which is as well blended a leather scent as I have come across in 3 decades of olfactory exploration, this is wonderful stuff.
The opening displays a traditional mix of bergamot, artemisia and juniper - with the latter in the background on me. Delightful
The drydown develops themes of a rather soft patchouli - no harsh edges here - together with a jasmin that is integrated seamlessly into this mix. A leather impression evolves and gradually takes Centre stage: a slightly dark leather, which is not sharp and only has a minimum of smoky characteristics.
The base develops the leather theme further, and touches of amber are present. A whiff of oak moss is traceable, but it is very much an afterthought and never in the foreground. Moments of nonspecific woodsy components enrich the leather towards the end.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.
This is a beautiful classic autumn scent for daytime as well as evenings, which is beautifully blended form high-quality ingredients. It is not really very strong, but definitely refined. One of Burberry's finest. 3.75/5.
I am a fan of men's fragrances from circa 1981 based on the several I have tried, and Burberrys for Men is further confirmation that something was going right back then. I think it has to do with moss adding a dimension and making the fragrance develop into something even better than the initial half hour. From the other notes listed here on Basenotes, amber is one that sounds right to me, adding a sweetness to the base. A full bottle would be tempting.
A pure leather. Plain and simple. A card carrying leather fan must have it in his collection.
I personally prefer my leather with some other stuff thrown in like Moschino (herbal leather) and probably will not go for FB.
I dont get much juniper or citrus but only leather. Possibly lost the top in my sample (but doubt it as source is impeccable)
It would be a rather glib statement to declare that Burberry's For Men is the finest fragrance I have ever encountered, but I can be confident in stating that I have never been bedecked by anything finer. It belongs with other fragrant luminaries such as Derby and Patou Pour Homme in that it exudes a certain lustre, a golden hue that is almost beyond words.
There is little in the listed constituent ingredients to suggest anything other than an eighties chypre-class dreadnought, with a standard spec opening. At its heart it feels peppery, boozy with a palpable garnish of juniper. There are shades of Yatagan,Phileas, and even a schmeer of Revillon Pour Homme, but Burberry's, even when pitched against these estimable compositions, remains outstanding.
It is of little consequence that both the eau de toilette and the cologne versions are blighted by a lack of stamina and projection. There is just so much beauty and elegance being exuded that almost anything can be forgiven.