Bullion
Byredo (2012)

Bullion goes on with a burst of moderately sweet fruity floral osmanthus enhanced plum supported by black pepper before gradually transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the plum fades into the background with the osmanthus remaining to leave traces of the fruit still detectable in subtle support to the black pepper that takes on a co-starring role, adding a waxy sheen to natural smelling dark woods rising from the base. During the late dry-down the composition gradually sheds its black peppery facet as it turns somewhat musky sans all but just the hint of any animalic heaviness, with remnants of the dark woods remaining, now in support. Projection is good and longevity excellent at well over 12 hours on skin.

Bullion is a perfume that on its surface is pretty simplistic with its peppery, almost incense-like woody focus. The osmanthus floral element is quite intriguing though, as in the heart section of the perfume's development it allows the plum from the open to remain to a degree, even though now it really is the floral primarily driving its detection. The woods used are quite pleasant and natural smelling but difficult for this writer to make any real distinction as the which ones are used. There is a waxy, almost iris aspect added to the peppery woods in the heart that to a modest degree reminds me of Declaration by Cartier, without the cumin. The late dry-down is a rather mundane, safe affair with the perfume never really taking major risks with its sanitized musky woody finish. There is no doubt Bullion is well put-together, but I never quite feel it distinguishes itself from a relatively crowded space of perfumes with similar fragrance profiles. The bottom line is the apparently discontinued $175 per 100ml EdP bottle at liquidators Bullion implies wealth and opulence, but delivers the more commonplace earning it a "good" 3 stars out of 5 rating but a neutral recommendation to most except peppery woods collection completionists.

The opening blast captures the aroma of the fruity fresh plum well - no doubt about it, although it is so clean that it seems nigh-detached from the real fruit. It is combined with a subtle pepper that is only very gently spicy on me, but it has the result of contacting the fruitiness, curbing its sweetness - this is never a really sweet composition - as well and providing a good balance in the top notes overall. This is well made.

The drydown begins with a period of somewhat nonspecific while floral contributions, but the base is where the plot thickens: a leather note arises, the light, bright but distinctly leathery note of new Italian Napa leather of purses I recall. It is not a strong, harsh or heavy leather. With it comes a pleasant wood impression, quite rich and smooth - with a touch of sandal in the background only. Towards the end the combination of the leather and the wood works very well, leading to a slightly creamy merger of the two.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

The top notes of this autumnal scent for warmer days and evenings are rather nice - a good plum - as are the base notes, whilst the floral middle phase is quite generic and flat. Nonetheless, overall this one, in spite of some synthetic impersonality, deserves a positive score. 3/5.

Byredo Bullion is an odd one, no doubt. It involves the intersection of several different genres but doesn't seem to take on one in particular. It's fruity with plum, floral with magnolia and osmanthus, and woody with sandalwood, not to mention the leather.

To my nose, the plum stands out the most, as it's fruity first, and the rest of the other attributes are featured in relative harmony with one another.

Performance is decent, wearability is year-round and versatile, though I don't regard it in very serious terms, and it's surely quite unisex. I just find myself mostly puzzled by it and while slightly drawn to it, not inclined remotely to buy it.

7 out of 10

A case where the sum feels a lot less than its component parts. A plummy-saffrony-woody-floral oriental if I were pushed into classifying it. But if I'm brutally honest, it actually smells flat, the notes melding into one big synthetic linear accord. No significant leather to be found either, texturally or otherwise. Perhaps it's been reformulated?

To its credit BULLION projects very well, smelling attractively like a veiled sultry courtesan from a sheikh's harem. Such a conjured imagery alone is enough to give me *cough* I mean, give this fragrance a rise and that, my friends, is no bull. I'd certainly raise an eyebrow and perhaps flare a nostril too were I to smell this on a straight guy.

I thought I picked up the wrong tester -- smelled like Pulp, but then the plum note shone through and I was hooked. Morphs into a very sweet leather which has tremendous potency and lasts for aeons. I wish it was a touch more subtle but is a standout fragrance.

This is a wonderfully blended leather and the leather stands out.

For the price, however, I would compare with PG Cuir d'Iris, which smells similar to my nose.

This is an excellent fragrance and definitely something unique and not for everybody.
The opening is combination of fresh, sweet and fruity plum scent with smoky and dirty leather and animalistic musky scent.
The fruity plum scent is very pleasant, but strong and dirty leather note and also animalistic musky scent make it something quite different from everything that I've tested before.
It's fresh, fruity and yummy but it's dirty and naughty at the same time.
There are some spicy notes beside these notes and a light floral scent in the background too.
In the mid there is no too much changes. only leather gets a little weaker.
In the base, things changed a lot!
The leather note, animalistic musky scent and spices all go completely to the background and only thing that remain and you can smell is sweet plum and floral notes. the base is kind of disappointment but it's OK.
This one gave me a lot at the opening and mid.
Projection is good and longevity is 7-8 hours on my skin.
It's not a safe blind buy! definitely try it.
I like it.

Fruity, floral, leather, woody, musky, sweet, according to Fragrantica. What's not to like? I, for one, love scents with a plum note and this one is delicious. Add to it a bit of floral a touch of leather and a hint of sandalwood and musk and you have something reasonably unique. There is a hint of dirtyness here too but nothing to put anyone off. Not a powerhouse scent but lasting a good 6-8 hours and longer as a close skin scent. I get a bit of a waxy character which I really like. Some people have said this is challenging but I see it as both unique and very wearable and quite unisex. Nothing to be scared of here. Perhaps the best Byredo but sadly a limited release. I obsessed on getting this for quite a while. Very glad to have it in my rotation.

Bullion by Byredo is possibly the most atypical Byredo so far. It still shows a remarkably synthetic edge but it's so nicely blended to result perfectly balanced and "in tune".

My reading is: Part Daim Blond (the apricot-osmanthus-suedey facets), part Chambre Noir (the leathery-plummy-sandalwood), part Boxeuses (the plummy-woody notes), part Cuir Amethyste (the sweetish fruity leather). Add to this the good side of Tuscan Leather (the saffrony-leathery aspect) and lay it down on a thick, dark and deep woody base. Potentially overwhelming yet so incredibly balanced. Good sillage, great lasting power. Probably not my type of fragrance but etremely well done and accomplished.

Thumbs up!