Bois et Fruits
Serge Lutens (1992)

Bois et Fruits by Serge Lutens (1992) is actually born of an unused mod of Féminité du Bois by Serge Lutens (1992), when it was first under development for Shiseido by Pierre Bourdon and Christopher Sheldrake. Like Bois et Musc (1992), Bois Violette (1992), and Bois Oriental (1992), Bois et Fruits shows a different facet of what would eventually become Féminité du Bois, but with that facet pushed up and enhanced with other added materials by Christopher Sheldrake in what would become the final perfume. So in a way, this scent was "completed" by Sheldrake from one of those unused mods like all the others. Initially, all were offered as part of the "A Touch of Wood" collection, although that collection would be expanded upon with other releases added to the range, or made just for the range. All told, this is a fragrance that focuses on fruit and wood as the name suggests, with the spices, vanilla, and other elements toned down. Bois et Fruits feels much more like a chypre than the original Féminité du Bois, and has a prominent fig note which joins an enhanced peach note, with plum taking a backseat. A touch of osmanthus here also doubles as apricot for the release, although I wouldn't consider Bois et Fruits an osmanthus fragrance in and of itself. Overall, what this becomes when all is said, would be more of a dry wood scent with hints of the fruits.

Overall, Bois et Fruits competes more directly with other niche and designer fig scents of the day, like Diptyque Philosykos (1996), DIor Dune pour Homme (1997), Salvatore Ferragamo pour Homme (1999), Marc Jacobs for Men (2002), or Vera Wang for Men (2004). If you couldn't tell, fig had become by the 2000's more the realms of masculine taste than feminine, although that isn't to say women didn't like it too, it's just that brands seemed to think it was better marketing them to men. Most of these things mentioned above are discontinued, as is indeed Bois et Fruits by Serge Lutens, telling me that fig is either "over", or that there is a material which makes up the accord which producers can't source anymore due to availability or regulations. In either case, the fig note here mixes with peach, a small degree of the plum from Féminité du Bois, while the Iso E Super note and combined cedarwood oil stand out more naked here than in Féminité du Bois, making Bois et Fruits less juicy in the fruit department, less transparent overall, more opaque and dusty, feeling "older" despite being made basically at the same time. Féminité du Bois doesn't smell so much "of the 90's", yet Bois et Fruits certainly does, despite not showing up until after Lutens went on his own. Performance-wise, this is also a bit poorer too. Expect 6 hours tops, and projection that sits close to skin after the first hour, making Bois et Fruits less of a value for ordinary use.

Guys not really happy with Féminité du Bois can give this a whirl if they can find it, while ladies looking for more in the same wheelhouse can also slide into a bottle of this if found. Some of the original mods from this line survive in modern black-label Lutens form, but most of them are gone like this one. I guess the lesson learned here is that you can have too much of a good thing, and despite the popularity of Féminité du Bois, having many variations on its theme only served to confuse and give anxiety to people trying to get into the brand, although all of these made it into bell jars before being axed. Collectors with deep pockets notwithstanding, Bois et Fruits is a good but non-essential fragrance from the line, and with the ever-rising prices of Serge Lutens anyway, one must really prioritize what they want to pick from house with so many lauded fragrances in niche perfume circles. In general, I like the way Bois et Fruits smells, although also like most of the now-gone fig fragrances it sort of ran up against, I'm not compelled to really reach for it enough to justify the hunt for a bottle, so my little sample will do. Salvatore Ferragamo pour Homme seems to me the best of this almost-extinct category, as much of its structure also carried over to Chanel Sycamore Eau de Parfum (2016), another fragrance that Sheldrake also helped develop. Neutral

The opening blast is a plum job. Initially fresh plums, then soon sweeter and ripe black plums, that, after a while, assume an aroma as if fermenting.

The fruitiness lasts well into the drydown, other fruits are added; mainly peaches, touches of apricots, and some added cinnamon also in the background.

The base adds a restrained cedar note, with just a slightly spicy undertone and a whiff of sandalwood transiently appearing towards the end.

I get moderate sillage. good projection, and five hours of longevity on my skin.

This scent for cool spring days is mainly a plum-centred creation, in spite of the name. The plum is developing various aspects of the fruit over time. Other fruits and non-fruity components are clearly peripheral condiments only. The performance is limited, but the quality of the ingredients is good. More Fruits et Bois than Bois et Fruits. 3.25/5

The first time I tried Feminite du Bois, I completely fell in love and sprung for a full bottle. Now, a few years later I finally got a sample of Bois et Fruits to try. They are very similar, with the same backbone of warm cedar, but while FdB has soft floral undertones, this has juicy peach and plums. I can't smell the fig, but that's ok because I haven't liked many fig scents (I hate Diptyque Philosykos and L'Artisan Caligna is almost as bad). I love this scent, and if I would have tried it first, I'm sure I would have bought the full bottle, but where it stands now, I already have something very similar.

A sweet, luxuriant oriental, combining notes of cedarwood, sandalwood, cinnamon and myrrh - to my nose, anyway.

I don't detect any fruits, dry or otherwise. Turin calls it a "plummy wood," but my nose can not agree.

What I can agree with is the oft mentioned (in these reviews) trait of poor longetivity and intensity. Lutens is known for strong concentration of oils and long-lasting fragrances. This misses the mark on both counts.

It's a superb oriental, but don't blink or you'll miss it.

Future Jason:

You like this OK. Pretty good, actually. As per the Sheldrake norm, there's some powdery-ness to it, especially at the end. At the beginning, there's plenty of novel fruit to smile about; at the end, there's little left but Sheldrake powder. Unfortunately, the beginning doesn't last very long. Not nearly long enough for the price tag.

There are alternate realities in which alternate yous can afford Serge Lutens stuff willy nilly. In this one, as is in the case with so many others, you can't. No big loss.

The truth of Bois et Fruits, and the other spin-offs of Féminité du Bois as well, is hidden in plain sight in their names.  Bois de/et (insert note). Variation, exploration, overdosage. The truth of the matter is, they are flankers.  The upside is that they demonstrate that a flanker isn't necessarily a bad thing.

The first thing a flanker must do is to prove that it's different enough from the original to have a name of its own, and Bois et Fruits does.  The name also implies that the fruit hasn't fallen far from the tree.  If you expect a juicier more flavorful richer perfume than Féminité du Bois, think again.  Bois et Fruit IS fruitier than Féminité du Bois, but it is also darker and dryer. Despite the added plums, Bois et Fruit less overtly flavorful than Féminité du Bois. For want of a better word, Bois et Fruit is dusty. But the dustiness is very appealing. The connection between the fruit and the wood is quite different than you find it in Féminité du Bois. Féminité du Bois is know for its singing quality, its radiance. It sings in the key of Iso E, but it does so beautifully. Bois et Fruit doesn't have its predecessors angelic radiance and is all the better for it. It plays closer to the skin, taking advantage of its relative opacity and matte finish. 

This perfume highlights a point I find in Lutens's other perfumes.   Perfumer Christopher Sheldrake seems to make distinctions in tone with the fruit, not the wood.  To look at Féminité du Bois, Bois de Violette and Arabie, the woody tone among the three is quite similar. But in Féminité du Bois the fruit is boozy. In Bois de Violette it is crystalized. In Arabie it is stewed. In Bois et Fruits the fruit is dried and preserved, somehow suggesting a stillness and a poise that the others don't have. The experience is less taxing, and you'll find Fruits less likely to wear you than any of the above.

Bois et Fruits is similar to Féminité du Bois and Bois de Violette. (I've never smelled Bois et Muscs or Bois Oriental, the other Féminité du Bois spin-offs.)  Still, the differences are worth noting.  The dryness and the darkness make for a less lingering perfume than Féminité du Bois. I could much more easily wear Bois et Fruits every day. After smelling Bois et Fruits, wearing FbB makes me feel like my ears are ringing.   Féminité du Bois's famous radiance often makes it feel like it's creeping up on you every time you turn around. Bois et Fruit is quieter but deeper and ultimately more subtle than Féminité du Bois.