This is the kind of release that keeps me interested in current releases. For the most part, I'm living in the past and loving it. Had you blindfolded me and ran it by my nose, I would think it was a contemporary of Azzaro PH and Tuscany PH.
The scent itself is beautifully balanced. Never too sharp, never too sweet. Radically in the middle. The rosemary and mint (mint not listed but very evident) spike up from the amber base, always giving the scent movement and keeping things lively.
This is a great option for someone like myself, who try as they might, can't find the love for most current trends, but still want to feel up-to-date on occasion.
A well-made retro-fougere that hearkens back to 70s/80s fougere styles (as opposed to the more "classical" styles of the early twentieth century fougeres), but with the mossy/ashy skank dialed back to accommodate present-day tastes.
It's a great option for the market as it stands today, though is likely to be less novel to those who have extensively sampled or collected fougeres from the eras to which it tips its hat.
The opening is a lavender blast - rich, green with a light undertone of wood. A lavender of great intensity. A bright cardamom adds a subtly spicy note, and these twp components work together very well. This dyad results in a surprisingly unusual aroma, especially when a hint of a light saffron is added in a bit later.
The drydown becomes a more herbal affair, with rosemary and a less prominent basil setting the tone. a traditional geranium evolves with time, which is more of an accompaniment that a lead note, but is contributes a discreetly floral component, together with the jasmine that lingers on way into the later stages of the development of this creation.
A fairly bright slightly ambery moss note leads in to the next stage, but it is soon overshadowed by a equally bright patchouli impression. This is quite a smooth patchouli, with a touch of a restrained edge to it, but neither particularly harsh or sharp - This is very unlike Purple Patchouli of the the House or even Gucci Nobile.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection, and eight hours of longevity on my skin.
Lavender, basis, rosemary, a mossy note, patchouli...this spring scent bears some of the hallmarks of a traditional fougere, especially as I can detect a light and brighter veriety of a soapy barbershop undertone that is neither musty nor heavy on me. On the other hand the lavender and the patchouli are rather dominant at the cost of the other ingredients for parts of the development.
The main gaps are the lack of an initial blast of bergamot that a fougere usually demands, and the fact that the rather anaemic moss note is not a proper oakmoss, but an attenuated version as probably induced by IFRA restrictions. This lack is attempted to overcome by the patchouli, but the result convinces as a patchouli, but not as an oakmoss. Still, the whole could pass as a modified pseudo-fougere, a fougeroid so to speak, but this is not a Brut; more alike Zino Davidoff with modifications. It is a bit linear at times, but some moments are quite complex and with adequate texture. The performance is very good. 3.5
Beau de Jour reminds me of Penhaligon's Sartorial, in its metallic/steam-pressed lavender opening, but is stronger, sweeter and more linear (as TFs tend to be). Clean and somewhat monotonous. Classic fougere territory. Many will like this more than I did.
A modern barbershop aromatic fougère which is next to perfection and a perfect solution for the contemporary (modernly tailored though in a classic way) gentlaman with a vein of traditional slightly old-school mannerism. A perfect harmony of lavender, faint citrus, cold geranium and amber/patchouli with (perfectly calibrated) hints of spicy aromatics (mint and rosemary) and florals. Lavender and aromatics imprint a marked fougère stamp laced by oakmoss and geranium in a classically mossy-aromatic-leafy way. Patch is a key note as in Zino but in a freshly calibrated drier/greener/muskier way. A great orchestra of fresh/warm notes calling partially on mind (as an ideally perfected combination of those classics) pillars a la Zino, Rive Gauche or fresh aromatic fougère a la Drakkar Noir or Azzaro PH but overall in a exquisitely "cleaned" essential modern way (despite the Beau de Jour's depth and complexity). Energically recommended to all those lovers of a daily aromatic fresh/warm "serious" aura with a rich charge of style and sobriety.
Without a doubt along the same lines as Rive Gauche. Non fragheads would have trouble telling them apart. Centred around that same old school creamy barbershop vibe as RG but here we have a geranium/mint note which maybe keeps things a bit more interesting/modern. I really enjoy Rive Gauche but must admit that I enjoy this one even more. I actually prefer the new signature release to the Original private Blend version as a find it brighter and more sparkling. Longevity is excellent for this type of genre as is projection and silage. Classy!!