Estée Lauder (1969)

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Azurée by Estée Lauder

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About Azurée by Estée Lauder

People & Companies

Estée Lauder
Fragrance House
Bernard Chant

Azurée is a women's perfume launched in 1969 by Estée Lauder

Fragrance notes.

  1. Top Notes

  2. Heart Notes

  3. Base Notes

Reviews of Azurée by Estée Lauder

There are 37 reviews of Azurée by Estée Lauder.

The fun thing about perfumes by Bernard Chant for Estée Lauder, is he changed or had adapted (seemingly by Lauder itself via other perfumers) many of his fragrances for the women's market to later be used as for the men's market, even if the adaptations don't always make for 1 to 1 copies. In the case of Azurée by Estée Lauder (1969), there is a lot of beautiful green chypre goodness that builds on his leathery chypre craft of Cabochard de Grès (1959) and Aramis by Estée Lauder (1965), infused with some sparkly floral aromatic elements that Nicholas Calderone would seemingly stuff into Lauder for Men (1985) some time later, which is why that fragrance feels so much like Azurée for Men, Aramis Part II, or an extension of the work in Aramis 900 (1973). Now 900 was an adaptation of Aromatics Elixir for Clinique (1971) both composed by Chant, but Aromatics Elixir is but a stone's throw away from Azurée anyway, as most Lauder fragrances up through the mid 80's when the tuberose monsters showed up do have some sort of "Lauder DNA" about them. Some of this DNA might just be Bernard Chant DNA, but he also didn't work on everything Lauder put out then, as things like Alliage Sport Spray (1969) were done by Francis Camail (who worked with Revlon back in the day too and was working up until the early 2010's with niche houses like Bond and House of Sillage). All told, Azurée will feel familiar to fans of green chypres of the period, as it indeed set a standard for many things heading into the 70's be they Lauder perfumes or not.

The opening of Azurée is aldehydes, galbanum, and bergamot, but curiously no rose is really found like you'd might expect if you were familiar with this genre. Instead, Chant leans more heavily on geranium and its interaction with cyclamen in the opening through to the mid, where musky ylang-ylang interplays with crisp gardenia notes and clean jasmine. From here, Azurée is much more powdery than its men's counterpart of 20 years later, thanks to orris and oakmoss making a savon accord into the revelation of the base. The chypre feel asserts itself after only a few minutes on skin, which is when patchouli and vetiver, labdanum and isobutyl quinoline sourness for a musky leather a la Cabochard, plus a touch of rounding amber take hold. I could swear there is a bit of birch in here too, like an old Russian-style leather, but it doesn't dominate the otherwise green composition. Before long, the geranium, green notes, patchouli, and leather start to really take over for the rest of the fragrance, and a hybrid floral metallic leather green chypre glow appears, sitting somewhere inbetween Cabochard and Alliage in character, halfway between the "sporty" green feel of the then-yet-to-be-created fragrance by Camail, and the earlier work of Chant. In short, this follows the "Lauder DNA" to a T and smells fantastic. Best use is in spring through fall, but Azurée is potent enough for winter if you like green smells enough. As you might expect, something like this wears unisex these days in the 21st century.

Older hubnut-bottles would be the way to go for the "full majesty of oakmoss" so sayeth the vintage zealots, but modern Azurée will still give you "the big picture" of what this scent is about, short of some performance and depth. Modern Azurée smells a bit more hesperidic too, with less aldehyde vavoom than the older bottles, plus a bit thinner and more transparent, but not like Jean-Claude Ellena levels of "barely there". I suspect this is due to the gutting of oakmoss from all IFRA-compliant perfumes, which although regulations within IFRA are still okay with 2011 levels, are not completely banned by superseding EU regulations concerning cosmetics and fragrance. In short, the oakmoss is completely gone and what you're smelling is voodoo magic with synthetic evernyl blended with lentiscus and some other things to approximate oakmoss enough to pass the quiz, but not with flying marks. I honestly don't think a fragrance like Azurée that relied far more on its leather accord, patchouli, and floral elements really suffers from the loss of oakmoss much, not like other chypres with a big oakmoss bite being part of the deal a la Armani Eau pour Homme (1982), so modern is fine if you don't want to pay hundreds of dollars for less than 50ml of the old stuff. There are always minis or sample-sized decants sold from fellow collectors for those morbidly curious about the qualitative differences in deep vintage. Green, glorious, and sexually ambiguous, that's the power of Azurée! Thumbs up!

I have worn Azuree for most of my life, right back to my late teens.
All the iterations, up until the change to standard bottles for Lauders classics, we're hesperidic, leather chypres in the tradition of Bernard Chant's oeuvre. Despite IFRA decimating the pallette that can be be used to create chypres, Lauder kept their's in excellent condition.

Sadly, I bought the latest version when I completed my last column shaped bottle. There has been a huge change in this latest reformulation!

This latest version opens as hesperidic, so far so good. The changes come later. In the heart the changes start to become apparent, a note & texture of “fattiness” creeps in. To me this is is a feeling more than a smell. It's that miasma in a British “greasy spoon” cafe. The cross of condensation from wet coats & breath, combined with constantly frying food with poor aircon & closed windows & doors.

I also now find the same note/texture in Alliage & Clinique Aromatic Elixir. I haven't tested Aramis & it will be interesting to see if this has changed in the same way when I do.

I'm very disappointed that Lauder has not maintained these classics. I don't know if it is due to budgetary or IFRA impositions, but I mourn their loss.

Will I search for older versions of Azuree? No, I have an ingrained scent memory of it & a retirement income precludes my vintage hunting anymore.

I will keep my current facsimile in the hope that maceration will bring it freedom from the sad “greasy spoon cafe” associations instead

I smelled Azuree for the first time recently: I have never been a great fan of Estee Lauder fragrances, (with the exception of Private Collection, which is one of my all-time favourite perfumes), but from the first smell of the tester, I knew this would join the 10-or-so fragrances I buy time and time again. I bought a bottle immediately, and have worn it regularly ever since.

I find Azuree a very complex fragrance: so much so I don't know I could begin to explain it or name many of the notes. To my nose, Azuree is Autumn in a bottle: a beautiful mixture of leather, spice and subtle citrus (I think probably orange,tangerine or mandarin).

What I have found is that on a sunny autumn day, Azuree smells fresh-spicy, whereas on a colder, grey day, it seems heavier and warmer. Familiar but unique all at the same time. I think the spice notes remind me slightly of Nina Ricci's Phileas and Caron's Yatagan. The longevity and sillage are tremendous; much as I love it I think it would be overpowering in warm (let alone hot) weather. When one of my friends smelled Azuree on me, she immediately said "That really is class!", which I agree with completely. For an autumn evening at the theatre or a concert, Azuree really is a rival to my usual Joy (the real Joy, not the new ghastly Dior fragrance of the same name).

Azuree is one of very few fragrances I would describe as perfect.

Another masterwork from Estée Lauder, one of my favorite glorious perfume-houses. Azuree is a bold floral/aldehydic/musky leather-patchouli prominent (green) accord with an herbal-bitter dry foundation and a sort of waxy (yes, like aromatic burning candles, a la Clinique Aromatics Elixir) soul. The Aramis classic's feminine counterpart (on the side of a more "unisex" Cabochard), finally brighter (muskier) and equally sophisticated (with a retro aldehydic/hesperidic mossy classically chypre architecture). I agree on that, if compared with White Linen, Pleasure or Alliage, Azuree is the most assertively complex and hard to wear of all. The initial aldehydic assault is heartbreaking and more than vagualy "stuffy", with a quickly "rising up" angular/crisp bergamot-patchouli's connection, a "burning candles waxy vibe", a green/herbal angular presence of forest resins/dry woods/musks and a prominent victorian pungent jasmine. Amazing opening under my "neo-victorian" nose with the vivid myth of Windsor Castle's aristocratic ceremonies. Patchouli is by soon bold and kind of "Royal" a la Floris while jasmine is sort of "acid" and spicy (likewise in Aromatics Elixir I vividly notice an old-school deliberately "retro/grandma" kind of mystic/incensey/waxy background). Overall the floral presence follows this "massively retro" glorious decadent style and the aldehydes/bergamot/ylang-ylang's co-work enhances this dominant "fat" and exotic/spicy effect, ideally in the middle between Aramis Classic, Mitsouko, Aromatics Elixir and JHL. A musky ylang-ylang is a key element with its charge of subtle sophisticated "cultured" (Grand Madame's) bold exoticism. I have to say that anyway Azuree exudes a basically fresh and bright leather-vibe (despite its spicy/earthy/floral/aldehydic complexity). The leathery presence (finally refined and surprisingly smooth) jumps up gradually bright and light (and going on along the journey more and more markedly as for Aramis classic, just more florally, graciously and subtle), even in here supported by oakmoss, structural patchouli, musk, a tad of frankincense's austerity and a finally warmer/spicier ambergris-presence. The overall effect is still musky/green, classically "chyprey", dusty and dry (un-sweet, woody). Another glorious pillar of old-style classicism in the same league as Cabochard, Aramis and further giants from a disappeared "manneristic" era. Projection is more than good on my skin, longevity is in the average.

Wow! The harshness of the initial aldehyde blast is nigh breathtaking and made me feel that this is quite umplesant, but soon the freshness of the bergamot becomes more evident and the top notes finish of much better.

The drydown - in a somewhat predictable pattern - enters a floral phase, with jasmin, not infrequently found in the heart notes of this house, and an unusually subdued ylang-ylang, which displays limited sweetness and is not the creamy and intensive variety, but is more of the lighter and slimmer type. Orris, cyclamen, and a crisp patchouli- both on the terse side - ensure that the tartness of the opening is not lost throughout the later phases of the development on this olfactory journey.

The base peters out in the aroma of a somewhat stolid white musk impression, a weak amber and a somewhat perfunctory oak moss, but - unlike in many other of Lauder's creations - remains on the hasher side, just the harsh side is attenuated with time.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

A fresh, and times unpleasantly synthetic spring composition, which for long stretches is not bad and quite stimulating in its crispness. At times predictable and at times solidly executed, it is just between mediocre and positive in the score - the good performance carries the day here. 3/5.

Wow, what an unusual powerhouse of a perfume. I can't decide if I can wear it or not... but I love it. I especially love the little sample-sprayed paper strip tucked in my purse -- smells like rich spicy leather, such a treat when I open my bag. On me, it's a little much. I feel like I'm convincing myself that I can wear it, but honestly it's a little strong, a little manly for me. However, I can see that maybe in 10-20 years (age 50 or 60) I might be ready for it -- not that it's for "old ladies" but it certainly takes a certain kind of confidence to pull this off the way it deserves. In the meantime, I'll keep trying it... it's pretty incredible.

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