Audace
Rochas (1936)

This is certainly one of the old school green floral chypres. However, it veers away from the animalic (typical of the period) toward the floral. There is a menthol-like note that envelops it in coolness, much like the similar note used in Scherrer #1.

It reminded Barbara Herman of Sikkim, Fete and Aramis. While I don't get the last reference, I do get the first two. Very much like Fete, which followed.

A subtle, sophisticated balance between the floral and the chypre base, at first it may seem to be simply a floral melange, like Rochas' classic, Madame Rochas, but the chypre quality comes forth with the heart notes and the dry down.

A great shame that it is discontinued.

Top notes: Bergamot, Juniper, Galbanum
Heart notes: Rose de Mai, Jasmine, Orris, Carnation, Violet leaves, Jonquil
Base notes: Oakmoss, Pine, Patchouli, Amber

With my initial sniff I thought "ooh, there is pine in this." And sure enough, there is. You'll detect it right away and it will last throughout.

On my second wearing, I"m getting more of a 'Ivoire de Balmain' smokiness that I didn't detect the first time, and I'd say I like it more now.

In all, this is more of a winter green than a springtime green chypre. I like it. The jury is out as to whether or not I"ll add it to my collection, but this is quite nice. The florals add a delicate touch, and the amber/patchouli is over shadowed by the evergreens. Audace is another scent that will leave you scratching your head and wondering what happened to the perfume industry.

Thumbs up!

Here are the notes courtesy of The Perfumed Court:
"This deep green forest Chypre has notes of violet leaves, orris and jasmin, May rose, jonquil, carnation, oak moss, pine needles, juniper, galbanum, patchouly and amber."

I bought this blind based on the review below by bbBd. Thanks, bbBd! This is old-school and fantastic. It hits me as EXACTLY what I expect perfume to be. It's deep, it's rich and it's adult. There's a green chypre here that purrs (rose) and growls (jonquil and oakmoss and leather). It reminds me of some Shiseidos I have and also some Amouages. There are no misteps, awkward phases disappointments or aromachemicals...it projects class and quality. It seems timeless.

I can honestly say I'd never seen or heard anything about Rochas Audace before I randomly came across a bottle on eBay by looking at 'sellers other items'. A little research yielded minimal info but I found a mini that wasn't expensive so I took a chance on a random blind buy. Glad I did because I was impressed enough to pick up more of it (also not expensive). Audace is a classic leather/floral chypre. Old school and fantastic. The PdT (which seems to be the most available concentration) is very dry, with a leathery/floral topnote accord and essentially no citrus. I get hints of jasmine and perhaps a touch of rose underneath the leather in the midnotes and healthy oakmoss base that presents itself almost immediately on application. To reference Audace with other fragrances you may know, imagine a cross between vintage Miss Dior EdT with vintage Caleche parfum and a hint of Diorling and you'd be pretty close to Audace. The EdC, being from the old school, is not a watered down version of the perfume but rather a fresher style of composition. The leather is a tad more subdued and the bergamot component of the chypre structure is noticeable in the topnotes. Sillage and longevity are good and the oakmoss base is untouched. The parfum version has a smoother leather note and the floral heart/base is particularly reminiscent of the floral accord in Caleche.If you like vintage chypres you have to find yourself a bottle of Audace. Even if you're just new to vintage collecting and don't want to make a major investment in a bottle like Diorling you should consider giving Audace a try. Major thumbs up.