Au Delà Narcisse is a unisex perfume by Bruno Fazzolari. The scent was launched in 2014 as 'Au Delà Narcisse des Montagnes'. The name was shortened in 2016.
The fragrance is available for a short time each year.
Au Delà - Narcisse is a classic white-floral chypre, made in the old-school way with genuine oakmoss and labdanum. The narcissus note is clear, fresh and unmistakable, and is supported by heavy doses of Egyptian jasmine and orange flower absolutes from France.
Au Delà Narcisse fragrance notes
- bergamot, narcissus, jasmine, oakmoss, orange blossom, amber
Where to buy
Latest Reviews of Au Delà Narcisse
What I appreciate most about Au Dela Narcisse is that it is the rare green floral that doesn't feel ramrod stiff. It has a sexy, tousled feel to it, as if Chamade had rolled around with a lover on a bed of wild, honeyed narcissi for hours and is now pleasantly drowsy.
People obsessed with oakmoss in vintage enthusiast circles forget that labdanum plays just as important of a role in the original "chypre" accord structure of bergamot, oakmoss, and labdanum, but because oakmoss eventually became so cheap and plentiful during the heyday of its use and cultivation, large-scale perfumers went nuts with the stuff as a cure-all for depth and sillage the same way aromachemicals such as ambroxan fit that bill today. What Bruno does with the core structure of Au Delà Narcisse is effectively "taking back" labdanum's role in the chypre accord, bringing it in balance with the oakmoss and adding a fat semi-rotted note of resinous narcissus in the heart. The opening is classic chypre brightness featuring bergamot and aldehydes, but these are sharper metallic aldehydes that Mr. Fazzolari prefers over the pillowy ones found in the 60's or 70's. The choice of aldehyde used modernizes the perfume somewhat, but once the indolic jasmine and soapy neroli come into the picture, the classic "femme chypre" form many vintage fans love comes to the fore. Narcissus does its "thing" in the heart, then oakmoss and labdanum both in a slow dance appear, feeling very much like Guerlain Mitsouko (1919) does in its final stages, only to be smoothed over by a bit of soft amber. Wear time is outstanding as a parfum, although sillage is not of the "compliment getting" variety. Wear where you dare but remember that during their prime, chypres like this were seen as austere business-like day scents for the "boss lady". Best time of year for a chypre like this to me is spring and summer, but there is enough bottom end here for Au Delà Narcisse to make a comfortable aura of scent in fall or early winter too, especially thanks to the very namesake ingredient focus and the hefty natural oakmoss/labdanum two-step going on down at skin-level.
I think the best part of Au Delà Narcisse is the "less is more" structure, as it really just has one note in the heart that does the trick of being floral, musky, resinous, and deep all at once. Since labdanum itself is musky and real oakmoss at high enough doses also gains some virility, there is no need for a bunch of civet, muscone, or any number of synthetic musk molecules to pad this out past the aldehydes in the opening. Granted, the downside is having a simple structure with mostly natural materials means there is an unspoken "best by" date and a bit of schizophrenia in how this could wear occasion to occasion, since a certain level of consistency people may be accustomed to with synthetic use is absent here, but perhaps that's the fun of it too. Perfumes like Au Delà Narcisse tackle the French style without all the fussiness or decorum of a full chemical lab and "proper" French perfumery education, taking the DIY kitsch of stuff like the brand Lush to entirely new levels of prodigal genius, validating artisanal perfumes as the ultimate alternative to those actually tired of the droning "consistency" and "flatness" of fragrances over-produced to meet mass appeal. I still like a teeny bit more dependability in knowing something is manufactured in volumes that allow greater longevity and chance of replacement down the road, but I totally love passion projects like this too. Besides, you're never going to see YSL or Armani ever tackle a structure like this again, because IFRA won't allow it, so there's that too. Catch this one when you can if you're a fan of chypres or green florals, even if just in sample form. I think Au Delà Narcisse is worth the trouble for the experience of a what a formerly mass-produced style can smell like when made by hand and free from regulation. Thumbs up.
Au Dela Narcisse is a delight, an elegant chypre that is well-crafted, using high-quality florals (narcissus, jasmine, orange flower) and a healthy helping of oakmoss, along with bergamot and amber, to yield a really beautiful creation. It's fresh, floral, woody, and slightly herbal in a very interesting way. It's dense and rich but not overpowering.
As with many fragrances, it's abundantly more elegant and balanced on skin than on paper, so I recommend trying this one out if you haven't yet.
Au Dela Narcisse is priced on the higher side, at $145 for 30ml, no doubt due to the floral absolutes that dominate it.
I've a little less to say about this than usual but it's a very nice fragrance that I'd highly recommend trying out. Zdravetz is a little lighter, so it's a slightly easier-wear-floral than Au Dela Narcisse, but ADN is richer and I believe its payoff is greater.
8 out of 10
My tastes are shifting away from this style of perfumes. While it's nice, you might want to shop around for Givenchy III or other vintages. It is dry, and has some green elements, but is not a 'green chypre' like Dryad. Among modern stuff that revisit the chypre style, I prefer the richer and more nuanced Chypre Palatin, or the rugged MAAI.
I'm not usually a huge fan of oakmoss, but the skillful blending with the rich florals here won me over. It's really quite stunning, & if you love vintage chypres, you have to try this.