Au Delà 
Fzotic (Bruno Fazzolari) (2013)


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Au Delà by Bruno Fazzolari

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About Au Delà by Bruno Fazzolari

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Fzotic (Bruno Fazzolari)
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Au Delà is French for "the beyond." It is inspired by music of the French mystical composer, Olivier Messaïen who created luscious and intoxicatingly strange harmonies. The scent recalls vintage chypres perfumes of the past, when floral notes were bold and rich. Gold Medal: Top Artisan Perfumer at International Artisan Fragrance Awards Gold Medal at San Francisco Artisan Fragrance Salon

Fragrance notes.

Reviews of Au Delà by Bruno Fazzolari

There are 4 reviews of Au Delà by Bruno Fazzolari.

This is good perfume that smells impressively of natural ingredients for a recent release. If this is compliant with the current rules from the International Fragrance Association, I am impressed. It smells reminiscent of classics from pre-1996, a lightly sweet floral with gravitas.

I felt something give in me when I smelled Au Delà for the first time. Something about it bypasses the thinking part of my brain and goes straight to the heart. I know that sounds very Barbara Cartland, and I do apologize, but when you smell as many perfumes as I do, you learn not to ignore those rare times that you are moved by a perfume. And Au Delà moves me.

It is partly to do with memory. Loaded with moss, coriander, and neroli, the opening recalls the ‘summer tennis' fourgeres favored by my father – I am thinking of Eau Sauvage in particular. There is a dry, herbal touch of hay, I imagine, and a whole lifetime of summers unfolds in my mind's eye. The neroli smells bright and smoky, like singed lemon peel. But the fresh, aromatic start turns out to be a diversion, and while your imagination is busy batting tennis balls, the real cast of notes is moving quietly onto the stage.

Because what Au Delà really is is a white floral. Normally, I can't stand white florals. To me, they are like a massive slab of Triple Crème Brie left in the heat of the afternoon sun to ooze across the cheese plate – a little bit is nice, but the thought of more leaves me nauseous. Worse than the unchecked richness, for me, is the lack of bone structure. White florals just….collapse… all over your personal space, like a blowsy blonde barfly ten years past her prime.

But what Bruno Fazzolari has achieved with Au Delà is to create a white floral with a backbone and a clear sense of purpose. Although the jasmine and orange blossoms are as honeyed and indolic as you might imagine, they manage to float above the base in a green, crisp haze that satisfies without making you feel sick. The dark, saline amber and moss in the base give it a chypre feel, and bring it within touching distance of the 1950's revivalist style of 31 Rue Cambon (Chanel), Promesse de L'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (Parfums MDCI). It is every bit as ravishingly beautiful as these perfumes.

However, Au Delà differs from these great ‘new' chypres by virtue of being more botanical in its focus, and far less abstract – in other words, the jasmine in Au Delà is recognizable as jasmine, the neroli as neroli, and so on. Au Delà also has a warmer, more ‘human' feel to it than any of the aforementioned perfumes, in large part due to the skin-salt finish of the ambery base. It is an uncluttered perfume with a direct message.

And in its simplicity lies the key to its snappy elegance. One of my favorite quotes from Paul Coehlo is as follows: “Elegance is achieved when all that is superfluous has been discarded and the human being discovers simplicity and concentration: the simpler and more sober the posture, the more beautiful it will be.” This might as well have been written about Au Delà and the perfumer's intent as anything else in life. A modern floral masterpiece, in my opinion, and joins Une Fleur de Cassie as one of my favorite floral perfumes ever.

Honestly guys, I'm increasingly impressed by the natural floral "Grandeur" of the Bruno Fazzolari's "artistic" creations. In all of those I detect grace, nostalgia, balance, subtle sensuality, artistic refinement, re-interpretation (in a neo-romantic sort of floral Rinascimento) of the classic floral-chypre tradition. The Fazzolari's "floral notes application" (jasmine and neroli in particular) in the middle of a neo-classic, freshly-honeyed aromatic-chypre context is simply majestic. The oakmoss's quality is in here at top, I suppose. The floral Fazzolari's "essence" (look at Jimmy too, for instance) is hesperidic, freshly botanic, dreamy and almost creamy (honeyed nectar over a well calibrated woody-mossy background). The Au Dela's opening is simply to die for, florally honeyed and "wet" as like waving over the clouds of Paradise. As well as in the middle of an ideal olfactory encouter between the Oriza L.Legrand's classic botanic-musky tradition and the new Bogue Profumo's eau de cologne/mossy chypre "rediscovery" Au Dela strikes us for its fresh (coriander, may be ginger) accord of neroli (a touch of pink rose too??) and jasmine (the deep core of the flowers) over an almost powdery (orangy-honeyed) accord of amber, cedar, may be patchouli and musk, overall in to a perfumed combination playing to me like an ideally (completely) natural sort of By Kurkdjian Elie Saab's romantic cousin (more powdery ambery, less properly musky and without any trace of the ES's hyper synthetic consistency). Another scent jumping more than vaguely on mind for its freshly hesperidic/spicy (floral and woody) balminess is Mark Buxton Black Angel (hesperides, neroli, jasmine, orange blossoms, coriander, woodsy, resins). The almost powdery Au Dela's dry down is warm and carnally organic. Few scents around combine so majestically floral gracefulness and warm erotism. Floral poetry at its best for us. Bruno Fazzolari....bravo.

A highly authentic classic chypre with all the trimmings, Au Delà is a technically stunning perfume.

A white floral bouquet of neroli and orange flower forms the introduction with a delicately indolic chord played through a clandestine jasmine. The opening is rendered green and bitter from a sprinkle of coriander, but softens into a supine oriental, balancing the bitter with the brittle effortlessly. An elusive soapiness is met with a faint powder, and the use of crisp herbal notes over an amber base breaks the seal of the standard hermetic oriental form, allowing for an element of space that keeps the scent from stifling paths. It's very much a 1930s-style perfume that's faithfully reimagined.

Some of the more contemporary takes on these classic forms tend to add their own spin with varying levels of success. Le Labo's largely overlooked Belle du Soir, Bogue Profumo's criminally overlooked Eau d'E, and Sonoma Scent Studio's much-loved Nostalgie, have all take vintage aesthetics and done a top-shelf job of adding their own signature. Au Delà, on the other hand, keeps the classics more in-focus by harmonizing with scents such as Miss Dior and Sous le Vent. It's clear here that the reference is one of respect rather than opportunism. As Au Delà quiets down, the herbal opening converges with the mossy amber for an “ade”-esque effect and the scent turns quite intimate, whispering through the final stages.

Fazzolari's artistic tie-in, this time, can be found in French composer Olivier Messiaen and his Demeurer dans l'Amour from Éclairs sur L'Au Delà. Aurally, the piece is both melancholic and cinematic–the kind of thing I'd imagine would work well in one of Guy Maddin's films from the late ‘80s. While the fragrance doesn't reflect the jarring shifts of the music, the indolic texture conveys an aloof purr of interest that responds to Messiaen's strange rhythmic pushes. It might be said that the scent feels less intricate than the music, but perhaps it'd be more accurate to say that the intricacy complicates the appreciation of the scent. However, inspiration doesn't necessitate harmonic coordination, and so imposing a connection between the relative smoothness of the notes with the less-than-smooth notes of the score seems discordant and vulgar.

Aesthetically, Au Delà is a departure from the jaw-dropping Lampblack (although Lampblack has a classical works cited page of its own), but it's just as striking and impressive a fragrance. If the feel of classical French perfumery is your thing, and you're curious to see how the new artisans are working with these forms, then Au Delà deserves a spot on your radar. Neither anachronistic nor avant-garde, Au Delà sits confidently outside of time.

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