I have a decant from the cobalt bottled Guet-Apens. Between this and RD Britannia I am doing my best to figure out which floral notes, and their overall construction, I so thoroughly enjoy. Guet-Apens is a quiet enjoyment, and by that I mean I can't imagine this garners compliments or seems sexy or whatever inconsequential third-party affirmation some seek. I wear this when I read with some tea and a study-friendly classical playlist in the background. Guet-Apens is a great down tempo companion for quiet times.
Note to anyone looking for the current version of Royal Extract. It was at Harrods and might still be at some point later, but as of the last week when I tried to order Royal Extract (NOT Royal Extract II) was out of stock.
Olfactory flashbacks: old mossy-honeyed animalic chypre, warm spices, lipstick, Mendittorosa ID, several Serge Lutens (Chypre Rouge, Santal Mysore and partially Arabie come on mind), Absolu Rochas (partially Femme Rochas too), Bois des Iles. Guerlain Guet Apens is a rich and opulent spicy-honeyed (burnt woods-burnt sugar veined) floral (indolic) chypre with a fat-resinous soul and a warm woods-oakmoss-spices-fir resins-balsams (mostly honeyed benzoin) centered dry down. Really warm, overly warm, almost yummy gourmand. Tons of cinnamon under my nose. Apricot, peaches, mellow plums?? Iris, violet, rose, orchid?? Huge amount of amber, dark patchouli and tonka. Old school and mysterious but finally too much crude, viney, sultry (like a sort of realistic Nero Assoluto), fruity and floral-greasy for my full pleasure.
Attrape-Coeur is a warm, spicy, woody oriental scent that flirts with gingerbread and Christmas pudding, but doesn't actually stray into gourmand territory. It avoids the dessert buffet by balancing its cinnamon and cloves with an animalic indole in its floral accord and a pleasantly medicinal accent in its woods. A heavy violet note accompanies the spices, the sweet, jammy rose, and the orange blossom at Attrape-Coeur's center, while a sweet, powdery, vanillic amber and an ample dose of patchouli ground the composition. No lightweight, Attrape-Coeur radiates prodigiously and leaves a generous cloud of dark, sweet sillage. It's also tenacious, with those powdery amber and patchouli basenotes stretching the drydown out for hours.
I've wavered over rating Attrape-Coeur. It smells pleasant enough at first acquaintance, and it feels to be made of high quality ingredients, but to my nose it's also overly dense and ponderous, an after and hour or so its unrelieved weight becomes mightily oppressive. However, if you love Serge Lutens's Arabie, Bond No. 9's West Side, Chanel's Coromandel and Bois des Îles, but find them all a little bit too slender, Attrape-Coeur may be just what you're after!
The opening is not exactly the best one out there, on my skin is a bit cloying and sticky like fresh pouring fir balsam, I smell a lot of sandalwood and resins (it suddenly reminded me of Lutens' Santal de Mysore in fact). Syrupy and sticky, and fairly sweet too. The base is nice, dark and thick like tar, almost animalic too, with an interesting dense mix of hay, moss, incense, and patchouli. The heart of the scent is however that warm, sticky dense blend of resins and flowers, mostly jasmin and heliotrope with just a hint of violet, which will eventually emerge better. Balsamic, oily and woody, with a syrupy heart of floral notes and a waxy/powdery feel, that's basically it for quite long the evolution is pretty close to zero. It eventually just becomes a little more smoky and earthy on the very inner base. Thick and a bit monotone. After a while, as I said, the violet note emerges better, together with a waxy aftertaste, and it kind of comes closer some classic Guerlain's like Mitsouko, however the "tribute" is subtle and there is no real resemblance, just a faint echo. Not bad, but I see why they discontinued this.
The opening is fruity on my skin, but in a retro style, dominated by milky, peachy lactones. l can see the oft-mentioned resemblance to Mitsouko here, but this is warmer, friendlier, less aloof. lt quickly settles into a creamy floral accord, mainly violets to my nose, underscored by sandalwood & a little vanilla. After a couple of hours, there's a touch of ambergris & moss, but these notes are very subtle; the creamy florals & sweet sandalwood dominate right to the end. After four hours, the scent lies very close to the skin, & fades completely after eight hours.
This is a very pretty fragrance, & much sweeter than l expected. For me it's kind of a more grown-up & sophisticated version of the fruity florals that are popular with very young girls these days. lt's charming & delightful, but it's not quite me.
A fragrance with an identity crisisAn interestingly fickle hybrid, straddling somewhere between a floral oriental and a chypre. On skin I get more of the former with facets of iris, amber and sandalwood but on fabric, it's more of a spicy floral chypre. While both sides are attractively presented I rather wish it makes up its mind. But if you like your fragrance to keep you guessing, this should keep you suitably entertained.
The liquid in my sample vial (whose provenance was ultimately a decanter, by way of a fellow fragrance traveler) of Guerlain ATTRAPE COEUR smells suspiciously familiar to the dregs in the bottom of my now nearly empty bottle of YSL YVRESSE, which is so old that it actually bears the original name of that perfume, CHAMPAGNE.
Thick, somewhat gunky stewed peaches and parched vetiver? Hmmm... this seems very similar to the result which I might expect to derive from attempting a reduction of MITSOUKO over the stove. The flowers are really all stuck together in an amorphous blob in this composition. Eventually the drydown smells more like MITSOUKO than YVRESSE, but I never detect a single isolable flower petal anywhere: rose, violet, and iris are nowhere here to be sniffed. I do believe that my sample may simply be old.
I never had a chance to try the 1999 launch of "this" perfume, GUET-APENS, but I am curious as to why it should have been totally renamed if in fact there was no significant reformulation for the 2005 launch of ATTRAPE COEUR. I also wonder why two extra perfumers should be given credit for a perfume originally composed by Mathilde Laurent, if in fact the two creations are really one and the same.
Attrape Coeur is a very rich perfume which straddles the Oriental and Chypre lines. It opens with peach and a dash of bergamot on the top. The heart notes reveal a luscious tuberose, jasmine and rose blend over a distinctive Guerlain chypre base of oakmoss, amber, vanilla, iris, tonka, patchouli and leather. On my skin it starts off sweet, floral and fruity, then turns to a very dry oak moss reminiscent of Mitsouko, and sweetens up again as the dry-down moves into a somewhat typical Guerlainade base. Although there are very obvious floral elements in Attrape Coeur, it never displays itself as a floral scent, rather it is very much a chypre, albeit on the sweet borderline gourmand side. It is no more feminine than Sagamore by Lancome, or Tiffany for Men. This scent can obviously be classified as a "unisex scent." In fact the SA at the Guerlain boutique said that it is considered one of the Les Parisiens "shared" scents. It is, on me, Mitsouko's sweeter sibling.
When I sampled this a year ago I was looking for a reason not to buy another Guerlain, but wanted to circle back to it now.Guet Apens is a purple fragrance with a lot of glass'. Upon the opening I want to compare it to Apres L'ondee, but this is not a wet, springtime fragrance. It is a windy, late fall fragrance; something you would wear as you walked through the open prairie as the first brisk breezes of winter were whistling down your neck.The mood of this fragrance is introspective to me; something I would wear if I needed to be alone and contemplate something. A solitary wind-swept note.This time of year I place it ahead of L'heure Bleue, and behind Apres L'ondee. I wouldn't compare it to Mitsouko at all, as it is a dry, floral oriental and not a fat, luscious chypre. Certainly one of the better fragrances to ever come from Guerlain
If you can olfactorily envision an amalgam of Mitsouko's spicy peach-jasmine-oakmoss harmony and the baroque and burning sandalwood-amber of Samsara, you get the feel of Attrape Cur. Behind this touching name ("heart catcher") you find one of Guerlain's most lavish and layered perfumes – one that quickly gained neoclassical status. Originally conceived in 1999 as a limited edition Eau de Parfum by the talented Mathilde Laurent, it was at that time called Guet-Apens which means "ambush", a surprisingly violent name for a perfume. For a short period, it made part of Guerlain's Fragrance Collection duo as "No.68", before it finally was featured as the centrepiece for the reopening of the Guerlain House in July 2005, presented to media and industry people in a quadrilobe bottle just labelled "Maison Guerlain 7 Juillet 2005". For the commercial reissue, it was poetically named after J.D. Salinger's 1951 cult-novel "The catcher in the rye" (translated as "L'attrape-curs" in French) and placed in the Parisiennes line. Salinger tells the story about a young man who, faced with a hostile adult world, develops a fantasy of catching children and saving them from falling into alienation, phoniness and superficiality. This is the perfume's aim: to catch us with its playful and rich scent and bring us back to our senses. And the perfume is indeed the antidote of superficiality. As perfume expert Luca Turin notes, it's "an essay on amber" of the most delectable and opaque kind, with an intoxicating, wealthy aroma of spiced Swedish glögg, burning hot and prepared with all sorts of luxurious ingredients: a huge jasmine heart garnished with violet, peach, rose, orris, cinnamon, amber, vanilla, and lots of shining sandalwood. Any flimsy sweetness from amber and fruit is contrasted by oakmoss, dry and dark. And all these things are put together, not in a messy way but on the contrary layered intelligently like a Babette's Feast: caramelized indolic jasmine buds flambéed with fiery oak-aged peach brandy. To many Guerlain lovers' regret, Attrape Cur was taken out of production after 2009.
Reading through the reviews of Attrape Couer I'm struck at how differently people experience this perfume. Some people smell Mitsouko, others smell an animalic, dirty floral while others experience A/C as being nearly gourmand. My own personal experience with A/C represents this same wild variation, and it has taken me years to finally wrap my head around it. When I first sampled A/C the combination of vanilla, amber, iris, and citrus presented itself to my brain as a lemon-meringue like gourmand. As my nose developed and I became more attuned to Guerlains A/C's floral notes became more evident. The accord that I had initially experienced as simply gourmand I now experience as a stunningly intricate floral/oriental. Driven by a sweetened rose note the heart of A/C is rounded out by violet and softened with a delicate powdery iris. This heart presents itself slowly as initial hints of citrus fade, but the vanillic topnotes apparent from on application persist throughout the life of the fragrance and eventually meld into a classic Guerlinade-and-amber base. Personally I don't find any similarities whatsoever with the classic chypres like Mitsouko. Rather I draw the connection between powdery soft iris/violet perfumes like Apres l'Ondee and vanilla-heavy orientals such as Shalimar.In early 2010 Attrape Couer fell victim to IFRA restrictions on oakmoss. Interesting that it should contain so much oakmoss such that it could not be reformulated without it, especially since one does not experience oakmoss distinctly. I suppose this goes to show just how useful oakmoss is in the structure of perfumes and just how much we are losing in its absence. A comment on A/Cs many versions over which there is often confusion: Initially released as Guet Apens, this perfume was also released in a 250ml bee bottle under the name "No.68" (which is a different fragrance from the later "Cologne du 68"). The same perfume was also produced in EdT strength under the name 'Vol de Nuit Evasion'. Despite different names all of these fragrances are produced from the same formula. Any variation in color or aroma between Guet Apens and Attrape Couer is the result of variations in natural materials and not formula change. Info from perfumeshrine.com (not affiliated).Thumbs up, up, up.
Very Guerlain-esque. At first I get heliotrope ,violet and and then it comes almost a dead ringer for modern day Mitsouko extrait. It lets go of Mitsouko a little, after a while and there is a sweetish note, vanilla .Not quite gourmand ,somewhat spice-y. Still seemingly much like Mitsouko. Classic.
AC is one of those typical "perfume lovers" scents, you know how we all love our chypres. I and my 175 got caught. It is a beautiful scent but now somehow I feel like I have been there already.AC is a very classic peachy chypre/oriental, very "Guerlain". AC falls right in between 2 other chypres: for the fruity side Sophia Grosjman's YSL Yvresse (which has a bit of a Nahema theme) and for the spice Frederic Malle's Noir Epices. AC is more chic and less fun than Yvresse, but less austere than the "brainy" Noir Epices. Perfect for colder days. Good sillage - medium lasting power.If you are crazy about chypres and don't already have 50 in your collection, get AC as soon as you read this. THUMPS UP!Otherwise, like it was for me, it might be one too many. NEUTRAL
Guerlain Attrape CoeurNotes: rose, violet, iris, vanilla, woods, amber (from perfumeshrine.com)Attrape Coeur starts as a dark and rich, slightly dirty floral with clove, liquored rose, powdery iris, vanilla and sweet amber as the main notes. Development is extremely slow and graceful on skin, and the indoles are the first things to soften as AC moves to a lush, creamy, boozy, spicy rose bouquet in the heart notes. In the late middle stage, there is some artificial bitterness that seems inappropriate to the composition--I have noticed this mostly in mainstream floral-orientals (Rochas Tocade is an example). In AC, it does not detract very much from my enjoyment, though I think this would have been an almost perfect fragrance if not for the bitter note. The drydown is absolutely gorgeous, and is a vaguely spicy, floral, vanilla feminine "guerlinade" of typically high calibre.I agree with comments I have seen that compare AC with Chanel 31 Rue Cambon. However, AC is much dirtier, less iris-pronounced, and the sour fruit note present in 31RC is better tempered in AC. I find both fragrances beautiful, but Attrape Coeur behaves much better on my skin. AC falls squarely onto the line between floral and oriental, a genre that I love for its complexity. In that sense, AC does not disappoint, and yet, despite having a seemingly unfathomable depth bordering on melancholy, Attrape Coeur is as quiet, lighthearted and unassuming as the Mona Lisa's smile in DaVinci's famous painting.
I was disappointed by this one. Was hoping for something smooth, sexy, warm and sophisticated, especially after some of the reviews; but on me this smells like sickly plasticky rasberry, and i do get a bit of that horse manure barnyard thing too.Sorry, but i think this is horrible.
Yum. To my nose, entirely gourmand, without any heavy, overly literal "food" notes. Warm, spicy, boozy amber comes out right away, and though I wouldn't normally think of amber as edible, this makes me think of rich pastry soaked in honey, with violets providing sugar and iris as cream. Wonderful silage and good lasting power, drying down to soft sandalwood and classic Guerlain vanilla. There is a lot of powder here, which can make me feel self-conscious about smelling "perfumey" -- I apply lightly if I'm going to be with company. If it's just me, I splash it over myself and curl up under a blanket to enjoy the glow.
Have Chanel & Guerlain been fooling around behind our backs?! Guet-Apens begins just like 31 Rue Cambon, a modern lactonic oakmoss free chypre, mouth watering and richly blended. The opening is incredibly Chanel like. As it wears on the skin, its' lineage with Mitsouko becomes evident, and begins to reveal a Guerlain personality. Rose, Iris & Jasmine are among the flowers in this delicate arrangement. Guet-Apens sweetens as the hours pass, and after awhile the vanillic amber base proclaims to the wearer without question ~ "I am a Guerlain!" The composition is flawless. I have a difficult time imagining anyone not appreciating the beauty of this gorgeous perfume. Stunning!
This "trap for the heart" is a sweet, sticky kiss from the lips of a candy-eating child. It is warmer and sweeter than many Guerlain fragrances, blanket-like and eveloping, almost confectionary. It reminds me of Aimez Moi, only the licorice has been replaced with a pronounced vanilla and a smooth peach. At the base is a perfecty balanced civit note that gives it an animalic edge. I don't think it resembles Mitsouko much; that woody, classic beauty is reserved, austere, and aloof, while this one is sweet and cozy. It does share the glorious powdery peach of Nahema, the best feature of that fragrance. But Attrape-Coer never focuses on the rose. Rather, it offers a great deal of greenness that is apparent in the violet and iris notes. Guerlain does such amazing things with peach. Although it does not replace Mitsouko or Nahema, it is well worth one's time to experience its warmth and complexity.
They don't make stuff like this anymore. Creamy Mitsouko? More like sexy Mitsouko! Seems like a classic pre gas-chromatography had some contemporary warm goo droped into it. Definately worth cracking open that collector bottle!
Amazing! I have half-jokingly wondered why nobody makes a perfume that smells like horses, and this is it. Guet-Apens smells just like a horse! It's the sweet-and-sour quality of it. I get it from Bandit too, but not as extremely, in Bandit it's more of a hay loft plus an animalic warmth. In Guet-Apens it's pure, unadultered horse, with a hefty dose of half-chewed hay and a hint of dung heap.Sure, if I put my mind to it I can pick out notes: citrus for the sourness, vanilla for the sweetness, some sort of spicy floral for the hay note... But to no avail: it all adds upp to horse! I'm very nostalgic about the scent of horses so I find it quite irresistible in a very quirky way.
My bottle of Guet Apens, still in the cellophane, arrived today. I ordered it several weeks ago from Italy, and I had become resigned to its never turning up, so I was incredibly excited when it arrived...so excited, in fact, that I couldn't bring myself to open it. I carried it around in my handbag all day, getting the great big blue box out every now and then to *look* at. Got back home an hour or so ago, and opened it! I shall sit here and wait for it to *do* things, and describe it every time it does something interesting over the next half hour.First impressions: good lord, it's phenomenally good. It's a lot like the very best parts of both Apres l'Ondee and Mitsouko kind of remixed with a healthy dollop of creamy vanilla from Shalimar, made all the better in Guet Apens. Amazing creamy iris and a sweetly (important, this sweetness, because it goes all the way through the perfume) green violet over a big red basket of roses and peaches - the big, perfect white-fleshed kind of peach. I don't usually do peach, but this is glorious. It's much more recognisable as peach than the similar note in Mitsouko is - whether this is an accident of blending or a different chemical, I don't know. After a while it works its way into the background and lets the rose and sandalwood sing.The sandalwood is in the bottom and a wonderfully vanillic cream. The sandalwood is, for me, the heaviest note in the drydown. There's an amber note in there too, but it feels almost like it's a trick of the peach and labdanum; it's like the two notes blended into a beautiful whole. The peach has turned ambery rather than juicy (about 20 minutes in at this point). It's so delicious I may accidentally eat my wrist if I stop paying attention. The iris, very upright and a little powdery, is still singing over the top like a very clearly sung musical note. It's very hard to say yet, but my experience of the EDPs of Mitsouko and Shalimar, which share some bottom notes with this, makes me think this will stick around, close to the skin, for a good long time.I am completely in love. I think I'm going to get through this bottle *very* fast.
I remember reading someone's comment that Attrape-Coeur is a creamy Mitsouko, and that description spurred me to sample A-C because I find Mitsouko a bit overpowering.Top: Rose, jasmine, tuberoseHeart: PeachBase: Amber, muskI can appreciate this as a true Guerlain and a true work of art. However, like many beautiful works of art, it just doesn't speak to me on the "gotta own it" level. In the drydown I pick up on a kitchen-variety vanilla, very sweet and delectable.