I have a decant from the cobalt bottled Guet-Apens. Between this and RD Britannia I am doing my best to figure out which floral notes, and their overall construction, I so thoroughly enjoy. Guet-Apens is a quiet enjoyment, and by that I mean I cant imagine this garners compliments or seems sexy or whatever inconsequential third-party affirmation some seek. I wear this when I read with some tea and a study-friendly classical playlist in the background. Guet-Apens is a great down tempo companion for quiet times.
Note to anyone looking for the current version of Royal Extract. It was at Harrods and might still be at some point later, but as of the last week when I tried to order Royal Extract (NOT Royal Extract II) was out of stock.
Olfactory flashbacks: old mossy-honeyed animalic chypre, warm spices, lipstick, Mendittorosa ID, several Serge Lutens (Chypre Rouge, Santal Mysore and partially Arabie come on mind), Absolu Rochas (partially Femme Rochas too), Bois des Iles. Guerlain Guet Apens is a rich and opulent spicy-honeyed (burnt woods-burnt sugar veined) floral (indolic) chypre with a fat-resinous soul and a warm woods-oakmoss-spices-fir resins-balsams (mostly honeyed benzoin) centered dry down. Really warm, overly warm, almost yummy gourmand. Tons of cinnamon under my nose. Apricot, peaches, mellow plums?? Iris, violet, rose, orchid?? Huge amount of amber, dark patchouli and tonka. Old school and mysterious but finally too much crude, viney, sultry (like a sort of realistic Nero Assoluto), fruity and floral-greasy for my full pleasure.
Attrape-Coeur is a warm, spicy, woody oriental scent that flirts with gingerbread and Christmas pudding, but doesnt actually stray into gourmand territory. It avoids the dessert buffet by balancing its cinnamon and cloves with an animalic indole in its floral accord and a pleasantly medicinal accent in its woods. A heavy violet note accompanies the spices, the sweet, jammy rose, and the orange blossom at Attrape-Coeurs center, while a sweet, powdery, vanillic amber and an ample dose of patchouli ground the composition. No lightweight, Attrape-Coeur radiates prodigiously and leaves a generous cloud of dark, sweet sillage. Its also tenacious, with those powdery amber and patchouli basenotes stretching the drydown out for hours.
Ive wavered over rating Attrape-Coeur. It smells pleasant enough at first acquaintance, and it feels to be made of high quality ingredients, but to my nose its also overly dense and ponderous, an after and hour or so its unrelieved weight becomes mightily oppressive. However, if you love Serge Lutenss Arabie, Bond No. 9s West Side, Chanels Coromandel and Bois des Îles, but find them all a little bit too slender, Attrape-Coeur may be just what youre after!
The opening is not exactly the best one out there, on my skin is a bit cloying and sticky like fresh pouring fir balsam, I smell a lot of sandalwood and resins (it suddenly reminded me of Lutens' Santal de Mysore in fact). Syrupy and sticky, and fairly sweet too. The base is nice, dark and thick like tar, almost animalic too, with an interesting dense mix of hay, moss, incense, and patchouli. The heart of the scent is however that warm, sticky dense blend of resins and flowers, mostly jasmin and heliotrope with just a hint of violet, which will eventually emerge better. Balsamic, oily and woody, with a syrupy heart of floral notes and a waxy/powdery feel, that's basically it for quite long the evolution is pretty close to zero. It eventually just becomes a little more smoky and earthy on the very inner base. Thick and a bit monotone. After a while, as I said, the violet note emerges better, together with a waxy aftertaste, and it kind of comes closer some classic Guerlain's like Mitsouko, however the "tribute" is subtle and there is no real resemblance, just a faint echo. Not bad, but I see why they discontinued this.
The opening is fruity on my skin, but in a retro style, dominated by milky, peachy lactones. l can see the oft-mentioned resemblance to Mitsouko here, but this is warmer, friendlier, less aloof. lt quickly settles into a creamy floral accord, mainly violets to my nose, underscored by sandalwood & a little vanilla. After a couple of hours, there's a touch of ambergris & moss, but these notes are very subtle; the creamy florals & sweet sandalwood dominate right to the end. After four hours, the scent lies very close to the skin, & fades completely after eight hours.
This is a very pretty fragrance, & much sweeter than l expected. For me it's kind of a more grown-up & sophisticated version of the fruity florals that are popular with very young girls these days. lt's charming & delightful, but it's not quite me.