Lack of Tuberose suits my taste.
Opening is reminiscent of Ferre by Ferre with it's fruited Adelehydes.
Eugenol, which can obscure the other Florals is nicely tamed to offer a Spiced Cinnamon that blends into the Floralcy of the Heart of this gorgeous Oriental. Rosey Ambered Sandalwood provides a pillow of Girly sumptuousness and light powder.
Beautiful confection produced by the Perfumer responsible for the Bomb Paco Rabanne de la Nuit.
*Note: This is a review of the EdP version of Asja.
Asja opens with a juicy ripe peach and powdery rose co-starring tandem with just a tinge of underlying subtle raspberry fruit before transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the now airy rose takes the fore in a big way, as powdery carnation joins it as co-star with relatively sanitized thin jasmine and moderately sweet tonka bean adding support. During the late dry-down, the formerly starring rose gradually recedes and the jasmine vacates, unveiling slightly powdery vanilla and smooth sandalwood in the base that melds with remnants of the supporting tonka bean, adding a hint of sweetness to the mix through the finish. Projection is very good and longevity excellent at between 13-15 hours on skin.
Jean Guichard may not be the most prolific of perfumers, but when he *does* release a perfume one would be wise to take note, and Asja from the early nineties is another winner. Asja definitely reminds me more than a bit of vintage Poison by Dior, but it is nowhere near as brash or loud, swapping peach for Poison's plum into its spectacular rose and jasmine mix. There is a powdery nature to the perfume (which is partially attributed to carnation used in its heart and vanilla in its base) that bothers me to a modest degree, but it never gets out of control, and the perfume's positive attributes easily outweigh any concerns in that area. Where Poison defined the loud, bold nature of the 80s, Asja shows the gradual shift away from it in the early 90s, while still maintaining a lot of the same overall feel. If I had to choose between the two perfumes, I prefer vintage Poison, as it lacks the powder and pushes projection performance metrics to the limit (I *am* a powerhouse perfume lover after all), but Asja is not a Poison clone by any stretch, and it is a fine composition in its own right, fitting into "close quarters" situations with relative ease. The bottom line is the discontinued $110 per 75ml bottle on the aftermarket Asja represents one of the finest releases from the early 90s, earning a "very good" to "excellent" 3.5 to 4 stars out of 5 rating and a solid recommendation, particularly to lovers of vintage Poison who would prefer a lighter touch.
Another olfactory lush giant from the italian maison Fendi Roma (after the unsurpassed Fendi by Fendi). Asja is a sumptuous fruity spicy-oriental rich of palatin Roman class and exotic mystery. Scenarios from La grande bellezza jump immediately on mind by smelling this aristocratic fragrance (atmospheres of luxuriant "Palatin" Roman "decadence " costellated by sweet candles, frescos, bronze armors, chiselled pots, cardinalates, massive frames, bas-reliefs and tapestries). This exotic oriental a la Ysl Opium/Estee Lauder Cinnabar is focused on a central intricate accord of ripe fruit, floral notes, vanillic muskiness and spicy amber. Opening is super spicy and fruity with its intoxicating blast of peachy plumminess, red fruits from the forest, hesperides and cinnamon (in a while quite lush and mysterious). As the evolution enters its central stage a complex bouquet of floral patterns takes the scene with its 70's/80's honeyed elixir-effect a la Ysl Opium but with a vague viney-liquorous ripe "new" vibe in the air. In particular a fruity floral spicy (mostly cinnamon and cloves in a final phase) connection of redberries, apricot and orchid provide a decisive sultry twist in a middle way between scents a la Cacharel Eden and more aristocratic creations a la Fendi by Fendi, Ungaro Diva or Coco Chanel. Anyway, a more properly bitter floral note of carnation affords a sort of more mature "accomplisced" green/leafy balance on this spicy-fruity "crudeness". Dry down is basically oriented on a "Lutenesque" incensey-honeyed amber/patchouli accord well calibrated and more "restrained" over the initial fruity/spicy tornado. In particular the note of patchouli lords on a base of musk, honeyed amber, cloves and sandalwood (quite austere, dry-spicy and "asian"). A classic unfortunately discontinued italian spicy-oriental which is witness of a disappeared "posh/manneristic" italian high class and distinction.
The top notes are a based on a cinnamon sore than is given a floral sidekick in a pleasant carnation impression. Soon in the drydown an overarching fruitiness is evident, with ripe peach combining with raspberry notes.
The second stream of notes in the drydown brings in a floral undertone, mainly ylang-ylang, rose and touches of muguet. After a brief tussle the fruity line overwhelms the floral team, and this florally underlined fruitiness constitutes the core of this creation right until the end. In the base a certain touch-up occurs with the addition of an ambery benzoin-styrax notes, and some musky whiffs make an appearance towards the end.
The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longevity a very impressive ten hours on my skin.
Whilst the description of this pleasant spring scent might sound a bit fragmented and the constitutent notes combined in an haphazard fashion, it all comes together surprisingly well, resulting in a fruity-floral oriental creation that includes some elements of originality at times; this was made in an era when Fendi produces good-quality products and was more stable as a fragrance house. 3/5.