Arsène Lupin Dandy
Guerlain (2010)

There is something at once unique and yet traditional about this scent: it is vaguely reminiscent of so many classic chrypres, and yet manages a depth and a complexity that is momentarily shocking. But it is a complexity worn lightly. There is no confusion here, nor yet oppression; the nose is led like a willing companion through an olfactory exploration.

The notes are supremely well balanced: each note is afforded time without any being overbearing or aggressive. The perfume follows a typical chypre style opening with a note of citrus, moving to a spicy middle comprised of cardamom and pepper and settling on a woody & balsamic base of olibanum, amber, patchouli.

Céline's stolen gem
Woody peppered violet
Just showed up, my friends

Unmistakable!
Remounted as a Guerlain
Of exquisite taste

Clearly the work of
One Arsène Lupin - the thief
But dandy as well

A man quite apart
Respecting no rule of law
That he can outwit

Nor any custom
Falling before his charms and
Mesmerising act.

Thus, pity the girl
More, his rube blonde, good-hearted
How was she to know?

Indeed, even now
She likely suspects nothing
Nor any time soon

And even if so
Why should she think to charge him
When just the rumors

That he stole her work
Will send clients to her door?
Thus, he evades us

Exiting his crimes
By beating us to justice
For the afflicted

Let me describe him
So that you know who you face
And thus you are warned

The word "gentleman"
Is where our failure begins
To keep up with him

Perfection broken
By just too much violet
Perfection bettered!

As you understand
That you are now in his thrall
Ha! Now, get in line!

And remember this
When you reach for your wallet
It will be too late!

Next - take a deep breath
That sense of wood and pepper
You've felt it before

Only not so fine
Not by the thief's practiced hand
Not as a Guerlain

Never insistent
Never too much - except when
He so desires it

Begin to relax
Fool! That is his choice, not yours!
You check your wallet

You check your jewels
Why does he not seem to care?
Is he drunk? Or you?

You hear his story
More, you must hear his story
But his voice quiets

With practiced delight
Knowing you can't get enough
Led like a poodle

Walking out in front
You never saw the lady
Giving him her key

He's one step closer
To his next blind accomplice
Singing his praises

Never believing
That he loved any other
Or that he used her

In another scheme
Too fantastic to believe
No - give it up now

He toyed with us all
We thought we were rid of him
By our own doing

Nothing of the sort!
The dandy thief eternal
Arsène Lupin lives!

The Bigarade lemon combined with the bergamot lets one expect summery freshness, and to sone extent this expectation is not completely disappointed, but the cardamom with the pink pepper provides a slightly spicy counterbalance such as to creates and overall feel that is more defined by bright crispness than by summery happiness.

The drydown adds a bright and light patchouli with exactly crispness that I in the top notes, without any sharpness or scratchiness. A woodsy note, quite nonspecific with touches of sandalwood and the occasional whiff of guaiac, leads into the base. At times whiffs of florals - iris and violet - come and go

The base continues with the same overall lively brightness, hut the pepper has rescinded and is replaced by a cistus impression that adds an additional edge without changing the overall character of the whole. An olibanum develops late, and at times a very restrained nigh-balsamic hit is accompanying the sandalwood and the cistus.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a superb thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

The scent for cooler summer or warmer autumn day is delightful and quite original. A refreshing change from the common fruitchouli mainstream of today, it uses a few creatively applied olfactory brushstrokes to creates strong but harmonious experience that convinces, inter alia, though the good quality of its ingredients. Is might not be an overly complex creation, and the development is not overly exciting, but it provides enough variety such as to entice most of the time. The performance is excellent. Overall 3.75/5

This is quite an interesting little frag. First, it's purple. That is just an odd color for a fragrance. It has a sort of smoky white floral patchouli, no florals in the pyramid, but that is what I get. It is quite interesting stuff. The kind of stuff you just want to keep spraying and smelling. Captivating. Beautifully blended, a modern fragrance that smells classical. If it were easy to find it would be full bottle worthy for sure. Hopefully discontinuation will be temporary and they will bring it back.

I get a mature, incense, wood-sappy scent in the opening that dries down to a powdery-makeup smell with some drier wood notes. That drydown is much more acceptable to the masses than the opening which I find pretty abrasive. Leans feminine to me, especially in the opening, except it has that mature-guy feel to it throughout. Either way, it smells dated to me.

Performance is good, with better than average projection for 4-5 hours with only 2 sprays and around 8-9 hours with the skin scent remains.

Great olibanum-rich EdP scent from Guerlain (now discontinued). It comes across to me as dark, powdery, and spicy - approaching but just shy of beast mode!

ALD is rich with aromatic, balsamic goodness, classy in character and very enjoyable to wear. Resembles a more complex version of Christian Dior's Sauvage EdP, and has great longevity and projection like that scent.

Prices are looking steep for this nowadays - I'll pass on getting a full bottle and keep enjoying my Sauvage EdP.