Arborist
Jorum Studio (2019)

Jorum would like us to receive this as their ‘portrait of the forest’ (in Scotland, natch) perfume; I however take it as their oud. And quite a lovely one it is too, with a beguiling musty, humid woody scent at its core, some spirited saffron uplift at the top, and a cumin-like world-weariness on its skin. It’s a humming thing, the woody, resinous, sweaty, vegetal sweet aspects lapping and interweaving like wave patterns, keeping the nose interested. The main drawback here is the characteristic Jorum modesty; Arborist sits pretty close to the skin when really one wants it to launch forth.

The outdoors sensuality of Arborist is unmatched: some of what I visualize would be deemed indecent, but they might have to do with Wranglers and boots and the prickle of pine needles and cones against one's back and fundament. The opening is an oily, pungent accord that is immediately addictive. I detect a slug of saffron lifting an omnium gatherum of woods. It's sharp, fuzzy, warm, and something that even reminds me of hiba wood (Thujopsis dolobrata), which I have in my collection of coniferous essential oils. Used for centuries in Japan as a building material for temples and homes due to its resistance to termites and fungi, it has a unique scent profile. It's sharply citrus and smoky, cedar-like, with wormwood facets.

Arborist also features spikenard, one of my favorite natural materials, with its sacred history, heavy and deep in its scent profile, sweet calamus facets, starkly woody, animalic undertones, reminiscent of the still water of a marsh on a warm day. It seems to serve to underline the whole effect of the unembellished reality of the woods, as things grow even more coniferous and thickly resinous. There is a blurred line between the surroundings and the excited human body, as if Arborist is a scent poem for merging with nature. Heated skin, hands still showing traces of grease that the Lava soap couldn't quite entirely remove, it was a long day and it's time to retreat, and the protagonist can't decide whether it is meditation or mischief on the menu in his favorite wooded corner. Arborist is one of the most captivating releases I've discovered in the past year.

This fragrance is composed of woods that resemble oud, but it could be the nard or some other accompanying note that is creating the slight body odor vibe, perhaps due to the saffron, fir, and myrrh notes. I suggest getting a sample, as it may remind you of sweat or body odor, but I personally get more of a woodsy scent rather than stink. As it dries down, it becomes slightly resinous, medicinal, and aromatic. It reminds me of 2 Man by CDG in the drydown due to the wood and saffron combination, and both have a slight sweat vibe, with 2 Man containing caraway and nutmeg. This is a must-try for fans of woody scents like 2 Man, as it's difficult to describe the woodiness of this fragrance.

The performance is moderate, with a potent opening that fades into a woody scent with a slight hint of florals in the background. In summary, it starts with a cumin-like oud-y wood with a slight animalic funk, then dries down into a brother of 2 Man with its pleasant aromatic dry-down. Jorum Studio has pleasantly surprised me.

The price is slightly expensive at $90 USD for a 30ml, but you're getting quality materials from an independent Scottish house. I recommend exploring the entire line, but this fragrance might be the standout.