Antaeus 
Chanel (1981)

Stop saying that Antaeus of the 80s was a bomb here, it was a bomb there, longevity and trail bla bla bla .... it's not true, period. I have several minis and various bottles from the 80s, the perfume is identified in the various formats and in no case is it a performance bomb, on the contrary...
It's quite discreet, more than Egoiste to be clear. It's animalic but it doesn't smell, it smells like leather and green herbs, it's bitter and earthy but nothing faecal or importable, so even now... stop saying it's a perfume for fearless hearts. Of the many people I've played it to, no one has ever complained or criticized it of any kind, on the contrary...
The versions I have, since the 80s, are not floral but rather earthy and bitter, lots of castoreum and aromatic herbs in the opening, no rose etc.
Beautiful perfume, 101% masculine, not intrusive or cloying, with a discreet duration and suitable for the working context.
That's it!

Thanks to The Perfume Nationalist, I bought it blind. My first expensive purchase: Bulgari Aqva (2006). Top two until now, Creed Bois de Cedrat and Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire. Antaeus and Egoiste have taken top two spots.

2021 formulation.

Probably the best thing you can buy at the mall besides underwear, Antaeus is a welcome antidote to any ennui you might be feeling about the state of mainstream masculine fragrances in 2022...or, hell, mainstream fragrances in general. It practically explodes out of the bottle with a fistful of civet, lavender, rose, jasmine, Provençal herbs, incense, and leather, over a deliciously dark woody base that gleams like polished mahogany. I'm reminded of something my dad might have worn, had he been born a rich Frenchman and owned a yacht instead of a Mercury. Being a men's cologne from 1981, Antaeus is loud, yes. The rumors are true. But it's loud in a disarming, belly laugh sort of way, and you can't help but be taken in by its boisterous good nature. Also, it just plain smells like money. Chanel's reputation for quality ingredients shines through even in its men's line, and while Antaeus may remind you of other perfumes from its era, it simply feels a cut above. A pinch of powder over the best synthetic castoreum I’ve ever smelled tops off this feast of a scent. If you have even a passing interest in the art and craft of perfumery, or if you just really want to smell like you have your shit together, Antaeus is required reading. It's redolent of a more decadent era while feeling far less dated than it rightfully should. (And like many men's fragrances, it would probably also smell fantastic on a woman. Woody leather hath no gender.)

I have a newer bottle. To start with I get lemon Pledge and sage and some sort of synthetic funk that vaguely evokes cosmetics (the latter note identification could be pre-conditioning from reading other reviews; it's not a full-on Dior Homme lipstick thing, but I don't know how else to describe it). I do not really get many floral notes in the middle, but what I do occasionally smell is a small but fairly rank fecal note from the castoreum, maybe 1 time in 5 or 10 that I apply it. It's not consistently animalic, and it doesn't last very long when it happens, but I like it when it does. I think it's a hot-months phenomenon, maybe? And I always love the waxy, "rotten beehive" effect in the drydown. This has a lot of character, although I am still not exactly sure what the best application would be - I would not wear it out of the house, but I would not want to be without it.

This is the antithesis of modern perfume.
It is bold it is strong it is projection and it is longevity. It is ANTAEUS, Chanel Paris
What my nose detects.
The opening is pungent Lime and Myrrh and coriander. Slowing opens up the heart with that Basil peppered Rose landing on a labdanum patchouli and oak moss base.
There is a honeyed sweetness in the base even in current formula that is reminiscent of beeswax absolute.

This is based on 2020 formula. It’s a beast still and ever so satisfying. I have worn vintage and while it is more dense. The current form is more than satisfactory and pleasing. Especially given the true vintage prices.