Member Blogs

Cinnabar was released a year after Opium (1977) and for this reason the two have been compared, but even though they are both ambers, Cinnabar is less like Opium and more akin to an older perfume, Youth-Dew. Cinnabar was composed by Joséphine Catapano (with the help of Bernard Chant) and it’s basically a slimmed down version of Youth-Dew - her big hit from 1953. To give it its due, Youth-Dew is described by Calkin and Jellinek in their book Perfumery : Practice and Principles, as ‘one of...
Bois de jasmin recently blogged about new flavour and fragrance trends that she found somewhere. She said that green tea, peach and citrus are likely to be the most popular notes in the seasons to come. But where did this information come from? Was it mere guesswork to say that popular - and safe - notes are going to be popular for some time to come? - You don’t need a crystal ball to make that kind of prediction. Or did somebody put out feelers on the grapevine to find out what...
How do you wear your perfume? Do you spray your chest, sides or back; Deodorise the armpits? Do you spray your neck, or under the collar? The back of the hand or the forearm. Maybe you scent your hairline or your hair. Are you a dabber, and if so, do you dab your wrist underneath or on top? And where else do you dab? You might spray your clothes - on the outside, or on the inside. Perhaps you perfume a hankie or a tissue. Do you spray the air and walk through that? What about a wearing a...
Do you know that there are more than 4500 natural and synthetic chemicals that are used in the flavor and fragrance industry. Flavoring agents are also used in the formulation of food, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Fragrances, aroma chemicals and perfumes are used in these industries as well as other consumer and industrial products in order to mask unpleasant odors or create a pleasing odor for the consumer. This website will provide easy access to information for all chemical...
Many perfumista’s will be aware of the debate surrounding Oriental, the name of the genre that contains Shalimar and Opium. According to Bois de Jasmin, Michael Edwards will no longer use it in Fragrances of the World. He said that from now on the name will be Amber, and he proposes three categories: Soft Amber, Floral Amber and Woody Amber. In the light of his decision, those of us who write about perfume are faced with a choice. We can choose to ignore his lead and continue to use...
Something bizarre happened in a scent supermarket the other day. I was in there checking something out when two guys came in and one of them started spraying himself heavily with Bleu de Chanel. Ok, nothing strange about that, but then he grabbed Sauvage and gave himself a dozen more sprays with that. Having seen the horror unfolding, I moved away to a safe distance. But, as the two of them left, I crossed his sillage and - nothing! I couldn't smell anything at all. A friend said 'Oh...
Sometimes it can be difficult to say what a perfume smells like. It can change from when it’s worn to on the smelling strip, from one time to the next, how much you spray on, the seasons; many things can influence the way a perfume smells. But there is another factor, one that is more objective, the concentration of the juice - which can vary in composition as well as strength. Take the case of No5. In their seminal work Perfumes : The A – Z Guide, Turin and Sanchez review it three times...
The story is simple and I personally know all the details. It happened at Chiris, where my father was lab manager. The client already knew the company director, they had met on the Côte d’Azur where he had tried to convince her to launch a perfume. She was hostile to the idea but agreed to visit his factory. In the creation laboratory, she was seduced by the flacons of rare essences. The chief perfumer let her smell them and told her how a perfume is made with such materials. “I’m a dress...
Advice, Lessons, Tips, Tricks, and Insights This list is continued from Part 1 HERE. - Try to avoid hedonism but embrace the aesthetic nature of perfumery. Whether that's with samples or, if you have the money, full bottles, it's ok to try lots of fragrances until you find something you enoy. If you do buy full bottles, just make sure to keep selling what you know won't make the grade: don't hold on to something just because you invested in it. The used market is there for a reason. -...
I have finally discovered the blog section after two years of basenotes membership. Given my predilection for long-form posting this feels like a belated match made in heaven. I have enjoyed writing discursive essay-style topics in the discussion section of this website yet a blog seems a far more natural setting for these posts. With that in mind, it seems sensible to start at the start: a beginner's guide to modern perfumery that is in no way just for beginners. At the start of this year...
While I'm sure this has been done before, I don't think I've seen any discussion on it. To me, this was so life changing for fragrances in my collection, and improving the performance so much, that it possessed me to write a blog about it. So.. there has of course been plenty of talk about putting frags in a wine fridge, or regular refrigerator to keep them from going bad, or to even help with performance. Try turning up the fridge routine about 10 notches and sticking it in the freezer...
Excuse the order or rather dis-order. Images of items in the splits thread for reference and general perusal :) Slowly yet surely...! Paco Rabanne Pour Homme Jacques Bogart Signature Guerlain L'Homme Ideal EDT
Not a lot has changed between the release of Tom Ford Beau de Jour (2019) as part of the private blend line and Tom Ford Beau de Jour (2020) from the signature range, but the tweak is worth mentioning. Most importantly, the packaging update to more-closely resemble other newer entries in the SIgnature line with the ribbed cylindrical bottle, plus the slightly nicer (but still expensive) price tag, make Beau de Jour as a semi-permanent addition to the masculine line up a bit more appealing...
Mostly for resource purposes, specific bottles referred to in discussions and also a log of the items for split and sale. (Save getting the sales/splits thread getting too huge!) First up. 3 bottles of Tuscany. Bottle on right is the one samples have been shared with fellow BNers. Curio bottle of Drakkar Noir
During this project, I am assimilating a list of tempting iris fragrances that I have never heard of. I’m not going to share them just yet, because some appear to be unknown bargains that I, selfishly, want to purchase before I share them with any potential readers. In the meantime, a confession: I bought some Insolence EDP this morning. I am trying to compete this project without spending fortune on new perfumes, but I really want my Insolence EDP in the old style bottle. I already...
Insolence EDT does not even try to be classy. It represents one direction that the house of Guerlain might have taken: a grand house sans parfumuer en maison that uses guns for hire for its pillars (what was wrong with Marice Roucel? Perhaps he prefers his independence, for which one cannot blame him, as he has done some of his most interesting work outside of the creative restrictions of larger houses, although I would argue that Insolence is an exception, a wild and unfettered creature...
Note: this is not in the directory yet. Listed noted are: Cloves, Cinnamon, Ginger and Bergamot; middle notes are Rose de Mai, Jasmine and Ylang-Ylang; base notes are Orris Root, iris, Styrax, Labdanum, Oakmoss, Cedar, Vanilla, Benzoin, Patchouli, Ambergris and Tonka Bean. Sometimes I get lucky with my sample requests from Luckyscent. Elixir Attar is asking something like 400 dollars or more for their Iris Chypre, and Luckyscent wants about $40 dollars a pop for a sample. Ouch. I have...
Keiko Mecheri is a house that I don't see discussed much here on Basenotes. Fragrantica, which I think skews a little more broad (more enthusiam for designer perfume), young, and feminine in its English-speaking demographic, generallly shows a little more enthusiasm for Keiko and her house. Maybe it's because the house has a reputation for being kind of "Lutens Lite," or maybe it is because the house's perfumes are, generally, more delicate and floral in composition. This is all...
Today I woke up to a brutally windy March morning, with dark skies and a steadily dropping temperature hovering in the low 40s. It felt like winter was back, and I was not in the mood for a revisit of our recent blizzard or even a small taste of it. But, I was also not in the mood for a pretty little violet something. I wanted a dark and stormy iris that would capture our gray skies and the dead leaves still blowing around by the back door. I also had a brand new batch of samples that...
Après l’Ondée, is hands, down my most complemented perfume. It always makes women smile, ask me what I am wearing, where I got it, how to spell It, and if it’s at Macy’s or eUlta. Whenever I wear it, men actually follow me down the street and sometimes ask some of the same questions. It has the effect that, I suppose, many people (e.g., not crazy perfume addict connoisseur collector obsessives) look for when they imagine The Perfect Perfume. I don’t wear perfume to attract the attention...
There are not a lot of perfumes from Ramon Monegal that strike me as indisputable classics, but there are a few that really stand out—Cuirelle, Entre Naranjos, their magnificent Amber, and Impossible Iris, an iris perfume so lovable and good natured that it almost disproves Iris’s reputation as the difficult Mean Girl of perfume ingredients. This despite its undeniable and perceptible high content of rich but delicate orris butter. Because orris is the first thing you smell in initially...
Goodnight Many years ago (20/25) I bought a can of Sandalwood Essence that said on the label. "Essence de santal des Indes orientales de Macassar" distilled in Holland, from the Naarden brand, does anyone know this product or can you tell me what type of sandalwood it is, is thick and has a honey color, but I don't know natural sandalwood from Mysore. I also have a Patchouly essence bought at that time but it is almost black, is that natural? I am a perfumery unknown, the little I know I...
My spring rotation is not made up exclusively of iris perfumes, but between its large selection of iris options, and all the other irises I have in FB and samples, I think I can manage an iris a day. So I will use this space to post some sort impressions or thoughts, as best I can, from day to day. Today's choice is Le Labo Iris 39. It is a green iris, with a very attractive cold musk providing a base coat. Everything smells like "iris," the green iris queens like Chanel No. 19, and...
There has been grumbling for a while now, niche houses sell out to corporations and the quality of the perfume goes down; both in the back catalogue and, most likely – but harder to gauge, in new releases. By comparing old and new samples you can often find out if a perfume has been tweaked, but the quality of new releases - compared to the back catalogue - is more difficult to judge. One approach is to look at the ratings a house gets, before and after being sold to a corporation. The one...
I search information about accord lychee i find " Rose + fruit + Dimethyl sulfide = lychee " I need advice before i buy materials I have questions 1. Make rose accord first and add fruit and DMS right? 2. What fruit in that mean. 3. I can use 'tea rose absolute' instead rose accord? You can tell me other advice. Thank you in advance.
The first experiment of this year will be growing nicotine free tobacco with a specific technique I will be developing. I will be growing a selected blonde tobacco and woodland variety, with dry curing in the end. (Turkish tobaccos are too acrid/acidic.) Each will be alcohol extracted, and also steam distilled. This will be one of the yearlong adventures in experimenting. Timing of the steam distillation will be to extract certain constituents which I will blend in a final product of alcohol...
Blogger, lecturer, prize giving judge; when Denyse Beaulieu had a perfume made for her by Bertrand Duchaufour, her involvement in the world of perfumery took on a new role, that of art director. Duchaufour was the composer of Séville à l’aube, but this was a collaborative affair between him and Beaulieu - whose vision was the driving force behind the scent. In her book The Perfume Lover, she relates how she told the composer about a drunken night in Seville with a Spanish guy named Român...
Its my Birthday today and my kids bought me Journey man by Amouage. I hope its a sign of whats to come in 2021.After the dismal 2020 when almost any kind of journey was out due to lockdowns!!!!!!! Here is wishing happy travels and journeys to one and all.
I don’t like New Year’s resolutions, but I do like to set new goals and intentions for myself at the beginning of the year. This year, I want to accomplish three things. 1. I want to write at least one perfume review every day. Some days, I might not write any, so when I feel prolific, I will try to write more. The long term goal is to write enough reviews by this summer to get myself into the Basenotes Lounge, although I will probably end up paying for a BN Plus membership in the...
For the past half year, I've been dealing with bladder cancer. A tumor was removed last summer, and biopsy showed it to be an aggressive form, so treatment would also be aggressive. A medport was surgically installed through which I received two months of chemotherapy. A few weeks after completing chemo, my bladder, uterus and multiple lymph nodes were removed. The day after this surgery, a stent shifted and punctured a ureter, requiring emergency surgery. After some days in the hospital...
I know people got lots of things going on. Some of us have had a lot of changes come about due to the lockdown. Some of us, like myself, had a lot of changes going on even before the lockdown, uncomfortable changes. I haven't been posting here very much over the past ten years because a LOT of changes happened about ten years ago. And it led to other changes, and more changes, and more changes, and more changes. So by the time the lockdown happened, I was getting used to having to change...
Fracas is a hard perfume to write about. Not because it’s hard to break down into chords, or there’s nothing to say about it, it’s hard because most things worth saying have already been said. So instead of trying to find something original to say, I will draw on the comments of other writers who have already dealt with this great classic. Fracas is widely held to be the reference tuberose, the one by which all others are judged. Raiders of the Lost Scent calls it a ‘benchmark in...
Just putting this out there to see if I am the only one who experiences this from time to time. I have bought fragrances having tried them on my skin, at the store. When i get home, the whole process of transition from top to base notes made me question my purchase. I put the fragrance down for a while and when I came back to it, I found myself liking it. it also seems to perform better than when i first sprayed it on.
Fall in Florida is a great time of year for anyone, but especially for a frag-head. It gives us the opportunity to push back the citruses, aquatics, and freshies, and pull out the darker stuff, and enjoy the few weeks we get with them before the humidity kicked up again. Here are 5 more UNDERRATED Fall frags that I think are worth your time. (in no particular order) 1. Azzaro pour Homme Amber Fever: After sampling the whole line, it was clear to me that Amber Fever was the jewel...
Hi,I'm searching for something big smokey and wild. City on fire and t rex are both great.Looking to try the offerings from Beufort of London. Any one got any other suggestions? Thank you.
Complice was originally released in 1934, the year Coty died. It was subsequently relaunched in 1973 under the title Complice by François Coty. Complice is a cool creamy bouquet, aldehydic and lightly pink; a soft abstract floral that clearly owes a lot to Ernest Beaux. Complice is a fine aldehydic (at least in the 1973 version) but it's nothing special. It stands alongside Infini and 1000 which were released the year before but doesn't really outshine them. The interesting thing about...
Hello, I wonder if anyone can help me ? Would a "pre bar code" on Eau Sauvage EDT 50ml be considered a "Vintage Formulation" Any feedback would be much appreciated!
It's ironic that secular perfumery first developed as a way to mask the foul odour of naturally tanned leather but struggles to match the pleasant smell of a chemically tanned hide. Ted Lapidus pour Homme is a good example of that difficulty. It's a sweet and soft leather with a dark brown hue typical of seventies masculines. It has an aromatic top centred on coriander, there's a fatty animal baseline, and dusty-woody and spicy facets in the middle. These come through clearly on paper but...
L'Heure Bleue - the witching hour, when day slips into night. Dusk falls, and orange lights on the banks of the Seine twinkle in the deepening blue. The atmosphere is cool, elegaic... Some people find l'Heure Bleue sad, and indeed, there was something weighing on Jacques Guerlain's mind when he composed it. Jean-Paul Guerlain later told Michael Edwards his uncle had a premonition he couldn't describe - and so he expressed it in the way he knew best - in a perfume. With the benefit of...
Bleu Marine was released by Pierre Cardin in 1986, two years before Cool Water and New West for Him, and with a name like 'Navy Blue' it sounds like it should be the first ever aquatic, but was it? First of all, what are we talking about here? There are two versions of Bleu Marine: Bleu Marine de Cardin and Bleu Marine pour Lui by Pierre Cardin - which was released some time later. Obviously the later version of a scent cannot be the first of anything, so I am going to ignore it for now...
Do you like old school men's fragrances? Do you want to try them out? Classic fragrances are always a tough nut to crack if you also are concerned about how they're going to be received by others, or maybe you're just picky yourself and don't want to blind buy something is too outside your comfort zone. I grew up with a father whose daily routine always involved fragrance. I distinctly remember the scent of Drakkar Noir by Guy La Roche and Calvin Klein's Eternity for Men. But by the time I...
If you like No5, but find green chypres too cold, this may be one be for you. Infini has the rose-jasmin heart of No5 and a shiny green note of muguet, and these are set to a homey base of biscuit and powder. The oriental accord softens the aldehydes, and makes the scent more easy. It seems to forshadow Opium which lounged onto the stage some five years later. Infini is a strange brew in my opinion; part aldehydic flapper, part blue-stocking chypre, part oriental harem pants. In fact, the...
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