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Which house has no OUD launches yet?

hednic

Well-known member
Oct 25, 2007
388,221
41,545
Mahayla by Atelier Des Ors which I own is also an oud.
Jovoy's Jus Interdit another I own is an oud scent.
 

Salumbre

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2022
1,054
1,746
I never think of Lalique Hommage à l'Homme as an oud fragrance, but as a (kind of) tobacco fragrance, even though there is no tobacco whatsoever in it.

Probably what my nose reads as an elusive cigar box note is the oud.
 

Dane

New member
Jan 9, 2002
5,461
299
I'd add Goutal. They resisted until 2015, when they launched two in their upper end collection 'Les Absolus': 1001 Ouds and Rose Oud.
Only the the latter is still produced in their regular collection, but this is for sure not a pilar of their identity, and it's no surprise that they released those only after Annick Goutal passed away... Business is war.
So did Hermes, who only have one fragrance in their upper end line (Agar Ebene), but it's not their focus at all, nor a heavy hitter.

Also, to the best of my knowledge: Jovoy, Escentric Molecules, Aramis, Azzaro, Adolfo Dominguez, Atelier des Ors, Etat Libre d'Orange, Frapin, Masque, Miller et Bertaux, Mugler.

... and also Montale? Ok.... Ok.... I'm leaving....
Mugler had an Alien Oud release. ELDO has 500 years which they describe as "where oud serves the rose" on their site. Aramis did Perfume Calligraphy. It's actually tricky to find examples!
 

hollywoodforever

Well-known member
Sep 29, 2022
486
2,390
some houses that haven't released ouds
  • France:
    • Les Indemodables
    • Eight & Bob
    • Astier de Villate
  • Italy
    • Prada
    • Bottega Veneta
    • Fendi
      • is this house dead? no new fragrances since 2018... what a missed opportunity for mr. arnault...
    • Francesca Bianchi
  • USA
    • Narciso Rodriguez
      • did release a high end collection featuring one Oud fragrance, but available only in the Middle East and possibly Harrod's
    • Calvin Klein
  • Australia
    • Naomi Goodsir
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
12,270
28,679
some houses that haven't released ouds
  • Italy
    • Prada
    • Fendi
    • Francesca Bianchi
  • USA
    • Narciso Rodriguez
    • Calvin Klein

Um…

Prada: Miracle of the Rose
Fendi: Fan di Fendi Pour Homme Assoluto
Francesca Bianchi: Tyger Tyger
Narciso Rodriguez: Oud Musc
Calvin Klein: Encounter, Pure Gold Euphoria
 

Dane

New member
Jan 9, 2002
5,461
299
some houses that haven't released ouds
  • France:
    • Les Indemodables
    • Eight & Bob
    • Astier de Villate
  • Italy
    • Prada
    • Bottega Veneta
    • Fendi
      • is this house dead? no new fragrances since 2018... what a missed opportunity for mr. arnault...
    • Francesca Bianchi
  • USA
    • Narciso Rodriguez
      • did release a high end collection featuring one Oud fragrance, but available only in the Middle East and possibly Harrod's
    • Calvin Klein
  • Australia
    • Naomi Goodsir
NR has an "Oud Musk" that's for sale here in Canada. CK did Pure Gold Euphoria. Prada has one in the high-end line called Miracles of the Rose.
 

hollywoodforever

Well-known member
Sep 29, 2022
486
2,390
Thanks all - I stand corrected!

Still though - think there should be some distinction between things that are "oud fragrances" and things that coincidentally contain a note of oud... I've worn Francesca Bianchi's Tyger Tyger 5 or 6 times and am surprised to hear it has a listed oud note. It is definitely a fruity-leather above all else.

Other brands that come to mind:
  • Marc Antoine Barrois
  • Les Abstraits - though the brand is still pretty new
  • Escentric Molecules
Also if we zoom out a bit, it's easy to see how the "average" consumer of perfumes, at least in the USA, could easily never see an oud at their local Ulta or Macy's. Estee Lauder doesn't currently market any ouds, nor does YSL, Chanel etc.

Dolce & Gabbana; Narciso Rodriguez have released oud fragrances, but only as Middle East exclusives. Ariana Grande, Paris Hilton, & Britney Spears have EACH sold over a billion dollars in fragrances in the past 5 years and certainly none of theirs are ouds...
 

Dorjeee

Active member
Nov 3, 2014
227
41
Great input, very good point on the 'oud fragrances' vs. 'oud notes', made me think over the latter, when the oud/argawood is not even the real wood essential oil as an ingredient but rather an accord, just a synthetic accord used that smells like leather, amber, cedar and also hundreds of other things, if the marketing team(or the perfumer)still elaborately chooses 'oud' to include in the notes, what message do they want to send out to the consumers and the market? What's the potential benefit for the brand when choosing 'oud' over 'ebony' or 'darkwoods'?
Then leaving niche and independent perfumers' artistic pursuit and personal taste aside, when the 'oud' cools down, and 'Ambroxan' is bombarding malls like Macy's, does it become clearer to tell which conglomerates have been setting the oud trend over the last 12 years, which group of companies followed with good business sensitivity and tons of 'oud absolu'?Which brands are late or just lazy? And, which brands might actually have their own plans and do know what they are doing?
Zara still releases dozens of oud iterations to their best sellers each year, meanwhile signed Jo Malone to jump on the 'high end niche like' train, maybe the 'oud' is not cold yet, just yet.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
12,270
28,679
Thanks all - I stand corrected!

Still though - think there should be some distinction between things that are "oud fragrances" and things that coincidentally contain a note of oud... I've worn Francesca Bianchi's Tyger Tyger 5 or 6 times and am surprised to hear it has a listed oud note. It is definitely a fruity-leather above all else.

Other brands that come to mind:
  • Marc Antoine Barrois
  • Les Abstraits - though the brand is still pretty new
  • Escentric Molecules
Also if we zoom out a bit, it's easy to see how the "average" consumer of perfumes, at least in the USA, could easily never see an oud at their local Ulta or Macy's. Estee Lauder doesn't currently market any ouds, nor does YSL, Chanel etc.

Dolce & Gabbana; Narciso Rodriguez have released oud fragrances, but only as Middle East exclusives. Ariana Grande, Paris Hilton, & Britney Spears have EACH sold over a billion dollars in fragrances in the past 5 years and certainly none of theirs are ouds...

Narciso Rodriguez’ Oud Musc is not a Middle East exclusive. Barrois boasts an oud note in B683 Extrait, as does Britney Spears in Glitter Fantasy. Estée Lauder currently markets Wood Mystique. YSL has M7 Oud Absolu.

Now, I’m not suggesting that anyone searching for an oud fragrance is going to buy Glitter Fantasy: Britney, Ariana, and Paris are not exactly targeting sophisticated perfumistas, though I’ll bet what they wear is nothing like what they sell. I’m just saying that, even if not everyone has an oud-centric fragrance, oud (albeit mostly synthetic) remains a near-ubiquitous note in Western perfumery. Chanel is the surprise holdout.
 

Ken_Russell

Well-known member
Jan 21, 2006
56,763
15,171
Many great replies already, can spontaneously think so far especially about:
Molinard, Hugh Parsons, Knize, La Martina, GFT, Molyneux, Lubin, l'Occitane.

Yet uncertain regarding not even so much their pricing and/or availability as much as (even at a good price and readily available) about any popular appeal/compliment potential - at least outside of BN - of most houses among these.
 

Salumbre

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2022
1,054
1,746
Great input, very good point on the 'oud fragrances' vs. 'oud notes', made me think over the latter, when the oud/argawood is not even the real wood essential oil as an ingredient but rather an accord, just a synthetic accord used that smells like leather, amber, cedar and also hundreds of other things, if the marketing team(or the perfumer)still elaborately chooses 'oud' to include in the notes, what message do they want to send out to the consumers and the market? What's the potential benefit for the brand when choosing 'oud' over 'ebony' or 'darkwoods'?

Forgive my (practically encyclopedic) ignorance, but --are you saying that a singular synthetic accord can be used to evoke all those things? Would it have to be used in combination with other notes or chemicals to produce an oud accord, or a leather accord?
 

Dorjeee

Active member
Nov 3, 2014
227
41
Forgive my (practically encyclopedic) ignorance, but --are you saying that a singular synthetic accord can be used to evoke all those things? Would it have to be used in combination with other notes or chemicals to produce an oud accord, or a leather accord?
My apologies to say I can't be sure about that, what I can remember was some newly synthesized molecule or compound by Fermenich, that would evoke smell of woods and leather, and has been used in some niche releases, which can be easily received as darkwoods or oud.
 

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