What should be the alcohol degree of extrait de parfum?

[egemi]

Hello everyone,

I am trying to make perfume as an amateur trying to become a professional. When I did research, I was able to find formula information about EDP and EDT. But I want to produce a Extrait de parfum.. I want to put 25%-30% aroma oil. Generally, fragrance oil + ethyl alcohol + distilled water is recommended as a formula. But when I read the topics here, I learned that water should not be added.

The formula of the perfume I made is as follows;

30% fragrance oil

69% ethyl alcohol (96%)

1% distilled water

However, in the research I did, I saw that the alcohol degree of the perfume should be %75-80 degree. But according to my formula, the alcohol level is between 65-67.

Is there a problem if I produce it this way?

What should be the alcohol level for extrait de parfums?

Can I add water to extrait de parfums or should I not add water at all?

Thank you very much in advance for your help.

 

[Culpa Ire]

The terms are largely arbitrary and mostly used for marketing. That written, in general, 2-5% is cologne, 5-15% EDT, 10 - 20% EDP and anything above that Parfum or Extrait. There’s also a catagory named Fraiche or Eau Fraiche which is below cologne strength.

 

[G&W]

Making an Extract of perfume is a way of formulation, not just a matter of dilution.
First, your "fragrance oil" has to be designed this way, otherwise it will not behave well in high concentration, usually a lack of projection, or skin sensitivity issues are noted.
If you are sure it is an Extract of perfume type of formulation, you can start on making multiple dilutions, starting at 20% and up, then evaluate the perfume behavior for each dilution, after maceration, to find out which one work best for you.
Bear in mind that Ethanol contains water already, no need to add water IMO, but there are opinions about that.

 

[ourmess]

"Fragrance oils" are not viable for perfumery.

Do not add water to a perfume.

All of the categories are marketing and are just made up. "Extrait" usually means "above 20%", but it doesn't have to.

 

[egemi]

Thank you to everyone who responded. Well, let me ask my question as follows; If I want to make a perfume with a high essence or oil ratio, what should be the alcohol degree? If we use 30% oil, we use 67 degrees of alcohol at best. Is this a normal situation?

 

[Horst]

Just to illustrate: One could make a perfume concentrate, use this concentrate at 10% of the total mixture together with ethanol. That gives you an EDT concentration.

Now replace 20% of the ethanol with whatever solvent, DPG, Benzyl Benzoate, IPM, TEC and because it's technically a fragrance ingredient, you now have an extrait de parfum concentration.

See? Total marketing nonsense. Do whatever works best for your formulation and is safe for people.

(oh and don't ever add water to your ethanol based perfume)

 

[Horst]

Thank you to everyone who responded. Well, let me ask my question as follows; If I want to make a perfume with a high essence or oil ratio, what should be the alcohol degree? If we use 30% oil, we use 67 degrees of alcohol at best. Is this a normal situation?

Use can the same ethanol you would use for EDT or EDP concentrations. Make sure it's at least 95%.

This video gives a nice intro into ethanol:

 

[G&W]

Thank you to everyone who responded. Well, let me ask my question as follows; If I want to make a perfume with a high essence or oil ratio, what should be the alcohol degree? If we use 30% oil, we use 67 degrees of alcohol at best. Is this a normal situation?

Ethanol degrees has nothing to do with your formulation.
Use Ethanol 96° and up, non denatured or denatured safe for skin contact only + not pre blended with fixatives or PG and co.

 

[birdie]

Water can be added if you're using 99% ethanol. In that case use distilled water. Generally it isn't necessary though and if you use 95% it already contains 5% water. If you put to much water in your mix some of the acs will no longer dissolve and the composition gets cloudy.

 

[clandestine laboratories]

Water can be added if you're using 99% ethanol. In that case use distilled water. Generally it isn't necessary though and if you use 95% it already contains 5% water. If you put to much water in your mix some of the acs will no longer dissolve and the composition gets cloudy.

Nice to see someone getting it right. Traditionally, perfumers’ alcohol is 190 proof - ie 5% water. There are several valid reasons for the small amount of water.

 

[Jolieo]

But if you use 99% ethanol- water will be absorbed from the atmosphere- this is what I gather from the extensive discussion over the years here on BN

 

[Perfumer Archive]

These terms are used for marketing purposes, but their definitions have now changed.

EDCologne means a very fresh, light, short-lasting fragrance (so even if the fragrance oil concentration is 30%), consumers will consider it a cologne rather than an extrait or eau de parfum.

So, these terms are used to describe fragrance intensity and longevity, not the percentage of oil.


Ziad.

 

[birdie]

But if you use 99% ethanol- water will be absorbed from the atmosphere- this is what I gather from the extensive discussion over the years here on BN

It will eventually get down to 95% but it takes time if kept in well closed container. I generally buy about 10 kg at the time so not really a problem. You can dry it with a drying agent like calcium chloride if you want water free alcohol.