What is amber?

[KenA]

Is amber an imaginary note, much like fairytales and legends? (Everyone tells them differently, and often so differently the only similarity seems to be the name of the story.) Is there some kind of standards organization in the world of perfumery that attempts to define the notes used to describe fragrances?

First, I acknowledge that notes are just “labels” that perfume makers use sell a new fragrance and not a recipe revealing what its made of. To me, it seems like one of the most abused notes/labels is amber. The uses of the label are so different that it is meaningless to me, though I still make the mistake of believing it is the amber of my fairytale. The label has been used to describe a smooth balance balsamic styrax, vanilla, benzoin and labdanum (my version of the fairytale). But it is also used to describe ambroxan (significantly different) and ambrocenide and agarwood/oud (repulsively different - they are overwhelmingly strong, pungent aromas - odors that abandon the image of a smooth, translucent, golden gemstone). I don’t like Sauvage and it seems like a crime to describe it with the amber label, and then attribute it to ambroxan (not an amber.., a very nice, fresh, woody, pine, cedar-like aroma).

Dior Sauvage is a very popular fragrance, so I know there must be a lot of people who like its pungent note.., but can there be some additional notes/labels used to distinguish the vastly different aromas that are currently being grouped together as amber? … I know the answer is, not as long as the popular image of amber is an effective label in selling fragrances.

 

[MrPod]

This explains amber very well

Guide To Amber

 

[hednic]

Yes that about sums it up.

 

[The Cologne Cabinet]

I don’t like Sauvage and it seems like a crime to describe it with the amber label, and then attribute it to ambroxan (not an amber.., a very nice, fresh, woody, pine, cedar-like aroma).

Using "Amber" to describe an accord will evoke an emotion or scent memory in the person smelling it. Ambrox, Ambroxan and Ambrocenide sound like ingredients in a lab experiment and do not. That is why.

 

[slpfrsly]

Is amber an imaginary note, much like fairytales and legends? (Everyone tells them differently, and often so differently the only similarity seems to be the name of the story.) Is there some kind of standards organization in the world of perfumery that attempts to define the notes used to describe fragrances?

Sort of. 😄

I think you answered your own question well. There was a similar topic not too long ago asking for the "best" amber fragrance(s). I won't repeat my answer but I'll link it in so you can read what other people have to say in the thread as well. I don't think I could add anything else to what you already know.

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

This explains amber very well

Guide To Amber

Kafkeque provides a good explanation.

 

[clandestine laboratories]

Worth adding: there's a lot of disagreement as to whether fossil amber is a genuine material used in perfumery. However, Arctander describes it in his classic reference on natural fragrance materials - the oil is destructively distilled from the waste dust produced in making amber jewelry. However, even if you find a vendor selling the material, it's still sometimes mixed with other materials to form a more typical amber accord, even if it is sold as fossil amber oil. To make matters worse, there are fragrances on the market that claim to be based on the material, like DS&DURGA's, that don't appear to contain any whatsoever. If you're interested in having a genuine reference, Eden Botanicals sells fossil amber eo, including samples. I haven't smelled theirs, but I would assume it's genuine given their reputation and the quality of their other products. The real unadulterated stuff smells slightly smoky, pine-resinous and a little like costus or hot hair.

What all ambers have in common is they smell "ambery" - warm, often vanillic, sometimes resinous, slightly musky like salty skin. A combination of labdanum, frankincense, styrax and vanilla is a good reference. Woody-amber aromachems are such a different beast altogether that I'm not even sure why they're described as amber at all, except possibly that they have a similar effect in exalting fragrances to natural ambergris and ambroxan.

 

[PStoller]

Woody-amber aromachems are such a different beast altogether that I'm not even sure why they're described as amber at all, except possibly that they have a similar effect in exalting fragrances to natural ambergris and ambroxan.

Probably just the confusion of “ambrein” and “ambreine.”