What did you try today? (2023)

[Ken_Russell]

Likely a re-test of Zara Lush Vetiver-while not disliking this, in spite of its more promising name, this one largely remains a very average, middle of the road vetiver even by Zara standards.

 

[PStoller]

Autentica di Felsina - Bianca

Autentica di Felsina sinks its roots deep into the original formulas for the historic perfumes “acqua di felsina bianca” and “acqua di felsina rossa,” uncovered by the heirs of Livio Grandi. He was the last creator of these scents, which have been made since 1827 in the city of Bologna, once known as Félsina.

Autentica di Felsina is the expression of the sincere intention of the creators of the brand to recreate a historic product of excellence, bound to Bologna’s traditions, with complete respect for the past.

AdF describes this as a neroli-centric eau de cologne over a musk/orris base, and that’s pretty much what I get. The combo leans more sweet and powdery than I prefer—I favor a more astringent and aromatic EdC—but it’s well done of its type.

 

[hednic]

I tried Blue Diamond by Imperial Parfums which was another lovely release.

 

[cazaubon]

@foxbins Hermès Galop has quince in it too. Very unusual note. Thanks for your thoughts on the TF cherries and Myrrhe Mystère.

 

[Puma]

Today I am wearing Tabac Noir by Caron. This is deep, warm, enveloping, and multi-faceted with tobacco absolute, honey notes, leather. Patchouli essence brings woody notes to the warmth of papyrus and the smokey effects of cedar wood. This stunning perfume is sensual and elegant. I would not call it unisex, but rather masculine. It's very good.

 

[cheapimitation]

Sånd by ånd fragrances

I had been curious about this brand for awhile and excited to see Indigo Perfumes started carrying them so I recently ordered a couple samples.

I had tried on paper a couple weeks ago and thought wow it’s really banana not sure I want to wear this. But I won’t be seeing anyone irl this afternoon so I sprayed it on. It works surprisingly well on skin, but it is very realistic ripe banana with a creamy custardy woody backbone. When I smell up close I get more spices and wood but the sillage is all banana. It really is a fun wear and I’m enjoying it. It is saved by not being too sweet but I gotta think I’d feel weird wearing this around people who’d likely be scratching their head looking around for a ripe bundle of bananas.

 

[sagebrush]

@foxbins : Penhaligon's Vaara has a quince top note.

 

[davidcalgary29]

Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady: reminds me of going to a stuffy High Tea in Victoria, British Columbia, in a fussy, quaint room where everyone sat on pouffs and drank tea out of cheap porcelain. Dusty, faded roses jostle around spices forgotten in the back of a kitchen drawer. The perfect scent for Victorian Spinster cosplayers and/or Miss Havisham devotees.

 

[cazaubon]

I smelled Shalimar Millesime Iris today. It started off with sweet caramel, Shalimar, then iris. Very pleasant. Not a ton of sillage but an enjoyable wear.

 

[Toxicon]

Finally tried PdE Cuir Ottoman last night. Having come close to blind buying this one many times, I am so glad I sampled it first. Impeccably blended and all that, but it’s just not me at all - it’s suede caked in makeup powder, the opposite of a rugged leather. There is a very nice Iris note in here, but it’s something I’d enjoy on someone else in passing; not something I’d want to wear, personally. I thought I had overcome my fear of powdery scents, but this was powder in extremis.

Once again, saved by sampling! May I be a lesson to us all.

 

[PStoller]

4160Tuesdays/Our Modern Lives - Aquamarine—Waves/Wi-Fi—Clarity

The colour of the clear warm sea, and sharp hit of citrus and deep seaweed. Materials include: white grapefruit and rosemary essential oils, olive fruit CO2 extract, jasmine sambac absolute, blue hemlock essential oil, organic English lavender essential oil, seaweed absolute.

I had no idea what to expect from this “natural aquatic” before I wore it, and now that I’ve worn it—uh, I’m still not sure.

Fortunately, OML’s Aquamarine is nothing like the dihydromyrcenol and calone bombs that have given the genre a (well-deserved) bad name. Instead, the brisk citrus, slightly funky jasmine, and aromatic rosemary/lavender augment the seaweed to create an impressionistic rather than literal oceanic scent.

That impression is both vibrant and unusual, so this is not for the shy, retiring type. For those who both want and bring character, Aquamarine is a fine choice—though, even then, perhaps not as a daily driver.

 

[Schubertian]

I've sampled lots lately. Today it's a drop of Bulgari Black that a kind basenoter sent me. Love it. It's a dark vanilla, not too sweet but much less 'challenging' than I remember it (smelling it in stores when it was recently launched - I always regretted not buying it at the time). Hoping to arrange a swap for a bottle. 🤞

Another hand: a drop of Ormond Jayne Muscat. Like this too, amber with a bit of fruity sweetness. Halwa note (sesame)? Possibly... It's one of those I really like to smell, but not to buy a bottle of.

 

[Schubertian]

Sånd by ånd fragrances

I had been curious about this brand for awhile and excited to see Indigo Perfumes started carrying them so I recently ordered a couple samples.

I had tried on paper a couple weeks ago and thought wow it’s really banana not sure I want to wear this. But I won’t be seeing anyone irl this afternoon so I sprayed it on. It works surprisingly well on skin, but it is very realistic ripe banana with a creamy custardy woody backbone. When I smell up close I get more spices and wood but the sillage is all banana. It really is a fun wear and I’m enjoying it. It is saved by not being too sweet but I gotta think I’d feel weird wearing this around people who’d likely be scratching their head looking around for a ripe bundle of bananas.

I'm always bemused to read about this brand, because as a Nordic person, it reads "Sond by Ond fragranges" to me.

 

[Roky]

Just sprayed another one of my Duftkumpels/Duftanker samples: Black Sumatra Rain which is a dark oriental labdanum/oud extrait, with a dry and sligly sweet and spicy drydown. Nice!

 

[Puma]

The other day I tried Santal Précieux by Caron (2020) from my discovery set. I did not expect such a modern fragrance. It is woody creamy (sandalwood), fresh and flowery (elemi and rose). This is a refined and versatile scent suitable for any occasion.

 

[hednic]

I tried Ilyan by Imperial Parfums which I found very enjoyable.

 

[Toxicon]

Threw on a few drops of D.S. & Durga's Burning Barbershop last night. I picked up a sample on a whim in connection with my campfire thread, where I was sampling ten or so proper woodsmoke / campfire scents. This one is not really in that category, though it does open with a strong, fairly straightforward smoke accord before the strong spearmint and lavender barbershop vibes take over. Perhaps because I've been smelling so many smoky fragrances, the smoke note didn't phase me at all - as slapdash and ridiculous as it is, I wound up loving this. The sweetened lavender base with that lingering trace of smoke reminds me of something like Gris Clair, which I like a lot and would own if it were still readily attainable.

Compared to something like Imaginary Authors' A City on Fire, which is a west-coast indie perfumer taking a high concept stab at a smoky scent (the concept being burning buildings + sweet red berries), Burning Barbershop is an east coast indie perfumer tackling an even more ridiculous concept (burning building + a minty barbershop fougere), but the overall quality of ingredients and blending feels much higher for BB. I wasn't really expecting to enjoy this as much as I have, but it feels weirdly audacious and very fun to wear. One more for the wishlist.

 

[Ken_Russell]

Korres White Tea-liked its inoffensive, yet also clean and also good performance fresh, every day casual appropriate style.

 

[PStoller]

Neil Morris/American Perfumer - Garden of the Heart of Heaven

Originally composed in 2008 for the Manhattan branch of the luxury Japanese retailer Takishimaya, the design was set aside when the store closed in 2010.

“I was honored to have been asked by Takashimaya New York to create a fragrance for them. I wanted to create a scent that would encompass the beauty and serenity of the Japanese culture and also incorporate the stylish sophistication of Fifth Avenue. When I originally composed it, I found inspiration at the Japanese garden at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. Dave knew this and arranged for us to meet there to discuss it joining the edition program. The name of the garden is ‘Tenshin-en,’ which means ‘Garden of the Heart of Heaven.’ It’s a design that I’m very proud of, so I’m thrilled to have it find a new home at American Perfumer after all these years.”

The beauty and serenity of Japanese culture is an awful lot to encompass with one perfume, even before you stir Fifth Avenue style into the mix. I think Morris might have done better to tighten his focus (as might, for that matter, have the very expansive, very expensive Takashimaya NYC).

Here we have all manner of flowers and fruits that may well have grown in the Boston MFA’s 1,750-plant Japanese garden. Individual note choices range from the blindingly obvious (green tea, cherry blossom, plum blossom, bamboo) to the dubiously relevant (oud, tonka bean).

Regardless, it’s soured—or, rather, sweetened—by a cloying mandarin orange that drowns the rest of the composition in syrup. If there’s anything for which Japanese culture has global renown, it’s a meticulous attention to the smallest detail, requiring a delicate balance. In this regard, for me, Garden of the Heart of Heaven has missed the mark.

 

[ScentBeagle]

Just sprayed another one of my Duftkumpels/Duftanker samples: Black Sumatra Rain which is a dark oriental labdanum/oud extrait, with a dry and sligly sweet and spicy drydown. Nice!

Where do you find this brand?