What did you try today? (2023)

[PStoller]

Zoologist - Macaque*

The opening notes of Macaque offer a panoramic view of a cedar forest – intensely green and majestic. Gradually, whimsical frankincense and subtle aromas of ylang and jasmine tea begin to unravel. As you settle into the calming scent, you discover elegant traces of white oud, moss and musk, and find yourself reflecting on the tranquility of a soft but vibrant clearing among the trees.

I’m not sure what I was expecting from Macaque—or why—but this is one of those rare cases where the PR prose doesn’t do the fragrance justice. Macaque opens with bright, clean fruit, more crisp than sweet, with the apple zinging giddily over the galbanum while the woods act as structural beams rather than obstructive planks, until the frankincense shows up and takes things to a whole new level. So, of course, Sarah McCartney’s original has been discontinued, replaced with two “interpretive” flankers by Mackenzie Reilly. And those may be great, too, but this is a hell of an act to follow.

*CORRECTION: While I thought I was trying the McCartney original, it was in fact the Fuji Apple Edition, described by Zoologist thusly:

Sweet notes of Fuji apple dance through a pine forest, welcoming you to Zoologist Macaque. Incense adds gravity with aromas of Hinoki woods and myrrh. The delicate balance between heavy and light results in an austere woody scent with mild hints of creamy sandalwood. Macaque is exuberance tempered by calm, sublimity buoyed by joy, a happy harmony of meditative bliss.

So, I still don’t know what McCartney did or Wong didn’t like, but at least I know this version by Mackenzie Reilly rocks—and is still available. Oops!

 

[hednic]

I tried Next Tee for the first time by Pont Des Arts which was delightful.

 

[PStoller]

Zoologist - Musk Deer

For centuries musk deer have been hunted to near extinction, coveted for their fragrant musk pods. Zoologist respects this majestic creature, masterfully recreating the distinctive scent though a mixture of synthetic musks and natural oud and florals. The result evokes the animal desire of a lusty musk deer amid the alluring chill of a wintry forest, all captured without a hint of menace.

There certainly isn’t a hint of menace in the scent of Musk Deer. For all the notes in the pyramid, it just smells, well, musky. Rather like a less suffocating Habanita. But not more interesting. Pass.

 

[hednic]

On Board by Pont Des Arts which was wonderful.

 

[PStoller]

Zoologist - Rhinoceros (2020 edition)

On the first spray of Zoologist Rhinoceros, heady notes of sweet rum and whiskey collide with mellow coffee before the scent settles into its lingering journey. Rich leather, oud and incense are carried in a cloud of smoky red tobacco along a dusty amber path, dotted with hints of patchouli and moss. Rhinoceros is a sophisticated and robust scent that makes a bold, unapologetic statement. Go forth and explore your world. Don’t ask permission.

Prin Lomros’ Rhinoceros reboot is an essay in rum, tobacco, oud, and cypriol that lumbers about on pleasant but familiar territory for early 21st century masculine and butch-unisex frags. I quite like this sort of thing—and also have enough of this sort of thing that I don’t really need another, esp. not at Zoologist prices. If it ever gets blown out at FragranceNet, I might pad my wardrobe with it. More likely, though, I’ll save up to blind-buy the Paul Kiler original, which reputedly has considerably more of a rhino charge than this one, and is thus a uniquely appropriate unicorn.

 

[Reiu]

I tried this awhile back but since I never posted about it: White Peacock Lily by D.S. Durga, which has been discontinued. At its heart it is a wearable and clean jasmine-ambrette perfume helped by a dose of synthetics, with a drydown that to me smells strikingly identical to, funnily enough, Tom Ford's Neroli Portofino.

The top notes and "lily" part of the namesake take a really, really hot day to come out, at least on me. All the more of a pity that it's been too cool and cloudy here to refresh my memory of it, because that's definitely the point of interest in this fragrance.

Like the rest of D.S. Durga's line, this is a fragrance painted in broad clear strokes, in an impression I can only describe as somehow "compressed"; no subtle ineffable nuances in the notes here, you smell it or you don't. It is a bit on the louder side for me, and those two traits do make it a good reliable fragrance that holds up well for wearing out and still being able to smell it---as opposed to some of my more nuanced fragrances that seem to temperamentally retreat and shed half their notes as soon as I step out the door. Granted this may also be because I keep a humidifier running at home and outdoors can be much more arid.

There isn't too much to write home about this one. It is nice. The musk lasts quite awhile and recognizably retains some of the nicer aspects of ambrette seed. I would wear it, but probably mostly when the weather isn't accommodating enough for any of the other fragrances I prefer. My partner does like it though.

The original poem for which it named is also quite lovely. Pity that the version quoted on the official D.S. Durga catchcopy is truncated, having been mercilessly beheaded of the flow and tempo and sounds of the original to retain only pieces of the imagery, which, freed of the poem's structure, unfortunately renders it into the realm of purple prose.

As an aside: as a lily, I personally prefer Oriza L Legrand's Relique d'Amour; for a foggy or at least overcast-day floral, Serge Lutens's De Profundis. While White Peacock Lily is a nice enough perfume, I don't think its discontinuation was a huge loss to this world.

 

[cheapimitation]

Nicolai Cap Neroli
Been meaning to try this for awhile as I love neroli and have seen this recommended many times. Just got a Nicolai discovery set, and oh my I really don't like this. It smells very old fashioned and not in a good way, musty mossy unpleasant, a generic amalgamation of all the qualities I dislike in old school perfumes.

I looked up more reviews to see if I was crazy in hating this so much and not getting much neroli aside from a top note and found these gems on frangrantica which I endorse:

"Smells like 68 year old trucker's wife playing slots in a small town bowling alley."
"Reminds me of an old school "Men's" cologne, like something my great uncle would wear to church."
"Citrus cologne, little clump of moss."

I hope the rest of the discovery set doesn't go this way!

 

[hednic]

Celeste by Parfums De La Bastide which I absolutely loved.

 

[Ken_Russell]

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Sakura Blossom - did enjoy this quite a bit since the main theme of Elizabeth Arden's classic Green Tea soapy, almost antiseptic (yet not unpleasant) clean, fresh, crisp main theme is also enriched by quite natural, astringent/zesty however never acrid cherry fruit notes.

 

[PStoller]

Zoologist - Sloth

Zoologist Sloth captures the tranquility of this sleepy beast in a soothing green essence. Calming lavender, chamomile, marigold and jasmine combine with the stillness of bittersweet hay and damp moss, stitched together by threads of luscious incense. The result is dreamy and exotic. As it settles on the skin, Sloth carries one up to a place where stresses simply tumble away.

As familiar as I found Prin Lomros' Rhinoceros, so his Sloth reads to me as odd tropical exotica. It certainly doesn't make me think of that easiest of the seven deadly sins, since it smells of an awful lot of work. Between a fermented green sweetness on top (probably the unique combo of açaí and violet leaf) and a cumin-y funk on the bottom rests who knows what, beyond trying to decipher how the pyramid translates to the scent. I admire the originality, but I wouldn't get much use out of a bottle. For someone else, though, this could be signature-worthy.

 

[hednic]

I tried Ce Soir by Pont Des Arts which I thoroughly enjoyed.

 

[cheapimitation]

Nicolai Musc Intense
Another unpleasantly old school fragrance from Nicolai. I was expecting something more warm and cozy, but it's a powdery aldyhedic fragrance in the vein of Chanel No. 5 or even more so No. 22. However I much prefer the Chanel which feels like it is in higher definition, more contrast between the fizzy aldehydes, powder and warm vanilla base. This is like No. 22 with all the colors muted. The late late dry down (like the next day) the musky character reveals itself as I get a warm kind of powdery musky halo still going.

Bleh, not for me I'm happier with my Chanel versions of this scent profile.

This is making me appreciate Chanel for keeping their old fragrances up to date smelling, when I smell No. 22 or Cuir de Russie, they remind me of vintage scent profiles but they have a precision and brightness that feels modern. They nod to an older era, but still smell believable for today, not like you're wearing period costume. But when I smell the Nicolai it's like I grabbed a random fragrance from my Grandmother's cabinet.

 

[PStoller]

Zoologist - Snowy Owl

Zoologist Snowy Owl glides on with a minty opening, while the gentle warmth of musk combines with beautiful hints of snowdrops, lily of the valley and iris. Sweet coconut and woody vanilla swoop in to surprise and entice. Snowy Owl merges cool vitality with exquisite softness in a captivating scent, ideal for those who aren't afraid to take what they desire.

Hedwig says, “This smells like shower gel. Snowy owls do not smell like shower gel. They don’t even shower. We are not amused.”

 

[Reiu]

Serge Lutens L'Orpheline:

Smells like the leftover evaporated fumes from the drawer I keep perfume in.

That's about it.

 

[cheapimitation]

Nicolai L'eau Mixte
:sigh: me and Patricia aren't getting along

I have a lot of patience for classic cologne or green fragrances, even if it's a scent profile that has been done a million times, if it is done well I'm on board. Unfortunately, for me L'eau Mixte is not one of them. Vaguely green herbal citrus opening but not particularly minty to me nor invoking natural green grass or stems or anything lovely like that. Veers dangerously close to floor cleaner in the opening. Quickly turns to a very boring watery fresh musk that reminds me of some cheap hand soap (that clear one with little fishes on the label). I've smelled this exact base in some Hermes Jardin and it's a little reminiscent of the watery fresh laundry musk in the base of many of MFK "Acqua" creations. Except this is even more simple and wan in comparison to those.

In fact I dare say the new MFK Acqua Media is in the same ball park but far superior, and I don't even particularly like that.

 

[davidcalgary29]

View attachment 337626

Zoologist - Macaque*

The opening notes of Macaque offer a panoramic view of a cedar forest – intensely green and majestic. Gradually, whimsical frankincense and subtle aromas of ylang and jasmine tea begin to unravel. As you settle into the calming scent, you discover elegant traces of white oud, moss and musk, and find yourself reflecting on the tranquility of a soft but vibrant clearing among the trees.

I’m not sure what I was expecting from Macaque—or why—but this is one of those rare cases where the PR prose doesn’t do the fragrance justice. Macaque opens with bright, clean fruit, more crisp than sweet, with the apple zinging giddily over the galbanum while the woods act as structural beams rather than obstructive planks, until the frankincense shows up and takes things to a whole new level. So, of course, Sarah McCartney’s original has been discontinued, replaced with two “interpretive” flankers by Mackenzie Reilly. And those may be great, too, but this is a hell of an act to follow.

*CORRECTION: While I thought I was trying the McCartney original, it was in fact the Fuji Apple Edition, described by Zoologist thusly:

Sweet notes of Fuji apple dance through a pine forest, welcoming you to Zoologist Macaque. Incense adds gravity with aromas of Hinoki woods and myrrh. The delicate balance between heavy and light results in an austere woody scent with mild hints of creamy sandalwood. Macaque is exuberance tempered by calm, sublimity buoyed by joy, a happy harmony of meditative bliss.

So, I still don’t know what McCartney did or Wong didn’t like, but at least I know this version by Mackenzie Reilly rocks—and is still available. Oops!

I kept getting rotting bananas in the original formulation of Macaque. "Yuzu" is great, but "Fuji Apple" is my favourite Zoologist scent. They really lucked out with these flankers, because the majority of their lineup are interesting room scents but not really wearable for most occasions.

 

[hednic]

Tried for the first time On S'Etait Dit by Pont Des Arts which I found lovely.

 

[davidcalgary29]

Lorga Parums Rose d'Encens: strong rose notes wrapped up in a melting crayon.

 

[Scent Detective]

Finally tried Sarrasins by Serge Lutens today thanks to a decant from Naylor. Thank you Naylor!

Whoah! This is the most indolic fragrance I've ever smelled. HUGE, insane amount of Jasmine along with animalic castoreum...oh, and it also smells like a gigantic lilac bush to me as well. This is a massive floral fragrance that I'm not sure I can pull off...but I definitely like it. I'll try to ease into it by wearing it around the house for awhile.

 

[PStoller]

Zoologist - Squid

Zoologist Squid sings a song of the sea, a melancholy tale told through tangy brine, crisp incense, and sweet, cloudy ink, all united by the moody aroma of ambergris. Like the endless depths that inspired it, this elegant scent ripples with mystery.

Squid does a good job of evoking the briny deep without going all Cool Water on you. I wasn’t as sold on the synthetic ambergris (and as it’s a no-harm animal product, I’m not sure why, apart from cost, Zoologist eschews the real stuff), but that didn’t throw me as much as the un-squid-like benzoin, which was all that was left at the end of the drydown.

Not something I need a bottle of, but well worth trying for those more enamored of aquatics.