UV filters in commercial perfume

[polysom]

Studying GC/MS examples of various commercial perfumes on the internet (e.g. on Instagram), I've noticed some substances I have never heard of. Namely Avobenzone and Parsol MCX. Internet search revealed this are UV filters used in sunscreen products. I was wondering why you should add UV filters in perfume. It's true that UV light will alter the compounds in your perfume. But this is why you should store your perfume in the dark. Further reading told me, that this substances can be harmful for your health and for water organisms. Even if somebody stores their perfume in the bathroom in the light, UV light should not be such a problem. So the only reason to add this to the perfume that came to my mind was, to maybe reduce the phototoxic effect of some substances (e.g. Bergapten) in the perfume. Is this the reason for adding UV filter?

 

[Scntwtk]

I'm asking myself the same questions..

 

[pkiler]

I cannot definitively state that UV Filters are used only for one purpose, they may have multiple purposes.
I can foresee a few reasons, some of which would be expected simultaneously.

1. Protection in change of color due to light exposure, often darkening, or turning yellow or brown, or pink, molecule dependant.
2. Protection in change of molecular structure to something more skin undesirable, and suggested in a bergaptene type of reaction, based on light exposure, also the same to limonene and other citric terpenes that might have sunburning type of effects on skin, after sprayed on skin.
3. Similar to #1, prevention of oxidation based on or enhanced by light exposure.

 

[jfrater]

Studying GC/MS examples of various commercial perfumes on the internet (e.g. on Instagram), I've noticed some substances I have never heard of. Namely Avobenzone and Parsol MCX. Internet search revealed this are UV filters used in sunscreen products. I was wondering why you should add UV filters in perfume. It's true that UV light will alter the compounds in your perfume. But this is why you should store your perfume in the dark. Further reading told me, that this substances can be harmful for your health and for water organisms. Even if somebody stores their perfume in the bathroom in the light, UV light should not be such a problem. So the only reason to add this to the perfume that came to my mind was, to maybe reduce the phototoxic effect of some substances (e.g. Bergapten) in the perfume. Is this the reason for adding UV filter?

The main reason is to prolong shelf life. Once your perfume is in a glass bottle it is going to be exposed to light - using the UV protectors will prolong the life of the perfume by minimising the damage done by the sun. A lot of commercial fragrances also contain colours and these materials can help stabilise those (IE, prevent fading).

Your timing on this question is good actually - I am about to launch a base called Solgard® which covers all of this!

You can sign up to be notified when the product goes live.

The information and pricing is all up already. My base is the same blend used in all the big commercial fragrances that you are seeing in your GCMS analyses.

 

[Culpa Ire]

...

 

[achurs]

Antioxidants would be used to deal with photo toxicity rather than any kind of UV filter. I would use BHT or Tocopherol for that.

I have almost no knowledge of chemistry, but ain't the reaction with oxygen (oxidation) and the reaction due to light exposure two completely different things?

 

[pkiler]

I have almost no knowledge of chemistry, but ain't the reaction with oxygen (oxidation) and the reaction due to light exposure two completely different things?

Usually, yes
Heat increases chemical activity, light is also energy, I'm just saying that UV filters are not limited strictly to one type of prevention.

 

[Hedione HC]

Regarding bergaptenes and UV filters, I doubt that there's any relation or interaction. Because of their chemical class/structure, the amount of bergaptenes in a perfume/blend most likely remains untouched by oxidation. However, I'm no chemist.

 

[David Ruskin]

In my experience UV filters are used to prevent discolouration and change in colour over time.

 

[jfrater]

Regarding bergaptenes and UV filters, I doubt that there's any relation or interaction. Because of their chemical class/structure, the amount of bergaptenes in a perfume/blend most likely remains untouched by oxidation. However, I'm no chemist.

Yeah UV filters won't remove or reduce bergaptens - those are either destroyed by a chemical reaction to create bergapten free, or through a specialised and costly distillation process (the better of the two options) which a few suppliers (M.P.E for example) use.

On the other hand, Solgard includes a small amount of BHT which will prevent some dangerous oxidation byproducts from forming - this is recommended by IFRA in all fragrances that have linalool or limonene (pretty much everything with citrus).

Limonene: "Oxidation products of Limonene, especially hydroperoxides, have been demonstrated to be potent sensitizers. d-, l- and dl-Limonene and natural products containing substantial amounts of it, should only be used when the level of (hydro)peroxides is kept to the lowest practical level, for instance by adding antioxidants at the time of production. The addition of 0.1% BHT or α-Tocopherol for example has shown great efficiency."

Linalool: "Oxidation products of Linalool, especially hydroperoxides, have been demonstrated to be potent sensitizers. d-, l- and dl-Linalool and natural products containing substantial amounts of it, should only be used when the level of (hydro)peroxides is kept to the lowest practical level, for instance by adding antioxidants at the time of production. The addition of 0.1% BHT or α-Tocopherol for example has shown great efficiency."

Solgard can be used at up to 100% of the fragrance (obviously you'd never need to do that!) as the only material it contains with a restriction is so low that even at 100% you don't reach the limit. BHT may need to be declared in some countries if it is in a product - I list it on my perfumes when I use it. But generally, unless you do have to declare BHT, you can use the base at the recommended levels (up to 4%) without any declarations or restrictions.

 

[polysom]

I cannot definitively state that UV Filters are used only for one purpose, they may have multiple purposes.
I can foresee a few reasons, some of which would be expected simultaneously.

1. Protection in change of color due to light exposure, often darkening, or turning yellow or brown, or pink, molecule dependant.
2. Protection in change of molecular structure to something more skin undesirable, and suggested in a bergaptene type of reaction, based on light exposure, also the same to limonene and other citric terpenes that might have sunburning type of effects on skin, after sprayed on skin.
3. Similar to #1, prevention of oxidation based on or enhanced by light exposure.

Ah, thanks. Good to know.

Yeah UV filters won't remove or reduce bergaptens - those are either destroyed by a chemical reaction to create bergapten free, or through a specialised and costly distillation process (the better of the two options) which a few suppliers (M.P.E for example) use.

That's clear, but no one claimed UV filter would reduce bergaptenes. But UV filters reduce the energy of UV light. And furanocoumarins need UV light to interact with DNA to trigger the phototoxic reaction.

https://www.researchgate.net/figure...and-their-photoaddition-to-DNA_fig1_346826605

Hence the idea that maybe UV filters in the perfume absorb the energy that would otherwise have led to the phototoxic reaction. That was my question? Sorry if that was misleadingly formulated by me.
But as you rightly say, it would be better to use furanocoumarin-free subtances directly.

In my experience UV filters are used to prevent discolouration and change in colour over time.

Thanks David.

 

[Culpa Ire]

I have almost no knowledge of chemistry, but ain't the reaction with oxygen (oxidation) and the reaction due to light exposure two completely different things?

Sorry, my post was utter bollocks. I was thinking of peroxides when writing that and nothing at all to do with UV stabilisation. Jamie, as usual, has provided a good factual post on that subject. Apologies for providing rubbish info - I’ve removed it.

Just ignore me. I know I try to.

 

[polysom]

To pick this topic up again, I had an idea recently. Given that regular UV filters might not be good for the environment, to good for sea life and some can even decompose into carcinogenic products:

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33682414/

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5615097/

Why not use a natural product for UV protection? Plants have survived over millions of years in direct sun, they have developed very good UV protection mechanisms over that time. For example flavonoids, β,β-xanthophylls, sinapoyl malate, and flavonols.

https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/ja5059026

Recently they found another group, saiginols:

https://www.max-planck-innovation.d...-i-with-strong-uv-b-absorbing-properties.html

Why not use one of those compounds to UV protect the perfume? (OK, one reason could be, its hard to find it for sale)

 

[ScentAle]

I only add a bit of BHT when I use a considerable amount of natural citruses. Is it correct? Thanks

 

[David Ruskin]

BHT is not a UV absorber, it is an anti-oxidant.

We hardly ever used UV absorbers in our work. The most common end product was candles, and small amounts of Uvinol and other absorbers were used to prevent strong discolouration.

 

[jfrater]

I only add a bit of BHT when I use a considerable amount of natural citruses. Is it correct? Thanks

BHT is good with citrus and linalool, etc. - it prevents degradation creating byproducts which may be allergenic.