Using Costus

[mnitabach]

So I obtained the costus eo from Talia (asserted as ~50% costus lactone) & just tried to use it in a chypreish composition. I included it at about 0.67% of formula & seems OK so far: not overpowering top or mids, will report back on longer drydown. Anyone else got interesting composition ideas to display the assets of this material?

 

[jfrater]

So I obtained the costus eo from Talia (asserted as ~50% costus lactone) & just tried to use it in a chypreish composition. I included it at about 0.67% of formula & seems OK so far: not overpowering top or mids, will report back on longer drydown. Anyone else got interesting composition ideas to display the assets of this material?

Miss Dior had costus - IIRC it was about 0.6% pure. The best costus is produced by Firmenich - it is sublime though sadly prohibited for the most part.

 

[mnitabach]

Miss Dior had costus - IIRC it was about 0.6% pure. The best costus is produced by Firmenich - it is sublime though sadly prohibited for the most part.

Sounds like my dose guess was good!

 

[jfrater]

Sounds like my dose guess was good!

Yup You can use it below 0.1% and still feel its effects too.

 

[mnitabach]

Yup You can use it below 0.1% and still feel its effects too.

It's not really discernably altering thru a few hours on skin (composition was already very musky, ambery, mossy, leathery...), so hoping to observe some interesting effects in the long drydown...

 

[jfrater]

It's not really discernably altering thru a few hours on skin (composition was already very musky, ambery, mossy, leathery...), so hoping to observe some interesting effects in the long drydown...

It works really nicely with civet abs too. My sin had a big dose of both I think.

 

[Casper_grassy]

If the composition is mossy/leathery I’ll assume you’re using some Pyralone and maybe evernyl, if so a small dose of orcinyl 3 pairs VERY well with Costus.

If you’re trying to make it the star, I would suggest some carrot seed for the top and if you have, maybe try .5-1% costus olliffac. Doing this can also alleviate a typically larger dose of methyl ionone gamma/ alpha isomethyl ionone (whichever, if they’re being used but I find them integral for chypres, apologies for bias).
Anyways real costus can lend that powdery note without overpowering which I find MIG and AIMI doing.
One last thing a super tiny amount of raspberry ketone can bring out that slight I guess melon/ unripe fruit like nuance of the eo, sorry melon is best I can compare it to or like a honeydew, super subtle though.