Understated Classics

[Zenwannabee]

+1 for Chanel Pour Monsieur EDT.

I also think Pierre Cardin PM is often unfairly overlooked as the tremendous classic it is.

And finally, as I feel no classics list is complete without them, Hermes Equipage and Bel Ami. 🙂

 

[Varanis Ridari]

Cacherel pour L'Homme (1981) is very understated and super dapper in my opinion, which is a hard thing to pull off with a primarily dry spice accord; but it's really the cedar, bergamot, and chypre construction that make this feel so gentlemanly for a fragrance made smack dab in the middle of peak-powerhouse era.

Ask @relus , he knows a lot of the history more than me, and I think this is one of his favorites. It's quickly becoming one of mine too.

 

[TRBeck]

Such a wonderful theme, impressively exemplified by already so many great names.
Also adding especially but not exclusively: Knize Forest, La Martina Hombre, Voyage d'Hermes EDT, Loewe para Hombre, Dunhill Edition, the Sport and l'Eau flankers of Caron pour un Homme, Acqua di Genova Colonia Classica, Yardely Citrus & Wood, Lalique White, current formulation Boss Number One.

Some great ones here I hadn’t thought about, like Knize Forest, Dunhill Edition, and Caron PuH Sport; also some I’ve somehow never tried but really should it seems, including Lalique White and Loewe para Hombre.

 

[StylinLA]

Cacherel pour L'Homme (1981) is very understated and super dapper in my opinion, which is a hard thing to pull off with a primarily dry spice accord; but it's really the cedar, bergamot, and chypre construction that make this feel so gentlemanly for a fragrance made smack dab in the middle of peak-powerhouse era.

Ask @relus , he knows a lot of the history more than me, and I think this is one of his favorites. It's quickly becoming one of mine too.

Awww nuts...now I'm intrigued...

 

[silverlifter]

Wow! Thank you all for the thoughtful recommendations. There is a lot here for me to digest and research. I'm grateful for the consideration you have given this.

Sandalwood essential oil (Santalum album; Mysore origin preferred).

Wanted to pull this one out for specific comment. I lived in Mysore for a year in 1999 and still have one 50ml bottle of sandalwood oil left. I save it for special occasions and agree that it is an amazing scent!

 

[Varanis Ridari]

Awww nuts...now I'm intrigued...

Good 😈

 

[Pippin06]

I've been looking through this thread on the Classics and it got me thinking about a subset of many of the fragrances listed:

https://basenotes.com/threads/what-are-the-de-facto-designer-classics.528108/

I'm late to the fragrance game; fast approaching sixty and a white collar professional. I almost exclusively wear fragrances to work, and only for myself. I don't want to be noticed. It is probably anathema to most here, but I like the aromatherapy aspect of being able to catch faint whiffs throughout the day, without attacting attention. I like my frags staid, boring even.

What are the classic fragrances that are reserved, don't scream for attention, and yet are put together like a bespoke suit that just wears beautifully?

I curretly wear these:

• Acqua di Parma Colonia
• Chanel Égöiste
• Chanel Platinum Égöiste
• Chanel Sycomore
• Dior Eau Sauvage
• Guerlain Pour Homme L'eau Boisee
• Guerlain Vetiver
• Paco Rabanne Pour Homme

What else should I consider? Or, alternatively, of those listed doesn't belong in the list?

Guerlain Habit Rouge edt
Chanel Pour Monsieur

 

[Black Cloud]

I agree with the suggestions for D&G Pour Homme (I don't own it, but tried it recently and it would fit the bill), and two of my favourites Azzaro Pour Homme and Burberry Touch.

I'd also suggest Worth Pour Homme and Tabac Original EDC, two very old-school and inexpensive gems.

 

[TRBeck]

From a delightful review of Loewe Para Hombre by DuNezDeBuzier:

“Masculine herbal citrus on a bed of confident optimism. I don't know of a better office scent.”

Sounds just right. Gonna have to seek a sample.

 

[Ken_Russell]

I've always wondered about the Knize flankers not named 10. It's good to see it mentioned here. Yardely Citrus & Wood is one I completely forgot about but is really nice. I agree Lalique White is a good fit as well.

From a personal viewpoint alone, there might be quite a few Knize fragrances apart from 10 that do likely justify some (re) testing.

Especially since performing at niche levels while often priced at rather designer or even mass market cost levels.

 

[Diddy]

Great suggestions so far! Some others to consider:

• Guerlain Coriolan
• Penhaligon’s Douro
• Carven Vetiver
• Eau de Patou
• Patou Voyageur
• Creed Aubepine Acacia
• Creed Baie de Genievre
• Alviero Martini Uomo
• Declaration by Cartier
• Pasha de Cartier
• Pierre Cardin Man’s Cologne
• Wall Street by Victor
• Avon’s Paradigm
• Escada Pour Homme
• Givenchy Gentlemen

There are also some modern releases you may enjoy, like Prada L’Homme or Chanel Paris-Edimbourg. But that’s another thread.

Honestly there are many vintage fragrances that could be understated or bombastic purely based on how many sprays you apply. Vintage Eternity for men has a lovely understated drydown unless you overspray it and then it becomes too much for the office. I’m fortunate in that I can wear pretty much anything I want in my office setting, but I do remain mindful that a customer interaction could occur at any moment. I’m also fortunate to have coworkers and several admins that will let me know if something is good/bad/indifferent. Best wishes!

 

[The Cologne Cabinet]

Voted 5 stars by "Introverts Monthly Magazine"

Dolce & Gabbana The One EDT
Zino Davidoff EDT
Tom Ford Beau de Jour Signature
YSL L'Homme EDT

 

[silverlifter]

For me, Acqua di Parma Colonia

Thanks hednic! Could you expand on why you think Colonia doesn't fit?

Voted 5 stars by "Introverts Monthly Magazine"

Actual LOL!

Again, thanks for all the considered responses. I've done a little googling on all of your recommendations, and come up with a list of decants to pick up. My choices were governed by what bottles I could easily access down here in NZ if I thought they were keepers.

• Chanel Pour Monsieur
• Cerutti 1881 Pour Homme
• Dunhill for Men
• Monsieur de Givenchy
• Pierre Cardin Pour Homme

Thanks again for all your thoughtful recommendations!

 

[hednic]

Thanks hednic! Could you expand on why you think Colonia doesn't fit?

For me, simply not in the same class as the others, and by class i mean quality.

 

[Andrewthecologneguy]

I've been looking through this thread on the Classics and it got me thinking about a subset of many of the fragrances listed:

https://basenotes.com/threads/what-are-the-de-facto-designer-classics.528108/

I'm late to the fragrance game; fast approaching sixty and a white collar professional. I almost exclusively wear fragrances to work, and only for myself. I don't want to be noticed. It is probably anathema to most here, but I like the aromatherapy aspect of being able to catch faint whiffs throughout the day, without attacting attention. I like my frags staid, boring even.

What are the classic fragrances that are reserved, don't scream for attention, and yet are put together like a bespoke suit that just wears beautifully?

I curretly wear these:

• Acqua di Parma Colonia
• Chanel Égöiste
• Chanel Platinum Égöiste
• Chanel Sycomore
• Dior Eau Sauvage
• Guerlain Pour Homme L'eau Boisee
• Guerlain Vetiver
• Paco Rabanne Pour Homme

What else should I consider? Or, alternatively, of those listed doesn't belong in the list?

@silverlifter , when I put together the reference thread, the undercurrent included finding what you described: something that doesn't for attention...put together like a bespoke suit...wears beautifully.
I have discovered the key component to your ask is nostalgia - one must have put in the requisite time in order to love the way said bespoke suit drapes.

I recommend you try these if you haven't already:
Lalique Encre Noir
Davidoff Goodlife
Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel
Cerruti Image

 

[Ifti]

Starting to head in this direction of understated quality non shouty shouty I'm wearing cologne frags!

Head is a bit fuzzy but I did make a list in my head the other day... Subtle clean and perhaps close to the skin frags.

Bvlgari pH
Endymion
Prada L'homme in small doses as it's pretty potent.
CPM...

 

[UESNYC]

Thanks hednic! Could you expand on why you think Colonia doesn't fit?



Actual LOL!

Again, thanks for all the considered responses. I've done a little googling on all of your recommendations, and come up with a list of decants to pick up. My choices were governed by what bottles I could easily access down here in NZ if I thought they were keepers.

• Chanel Pour Monsieur
• Cerutti 1881 Pour Homme
• Dunhill for Men
• Monsieur de Givenchy
• Pierre Cardin Pour Homme

Thanks again for all your thoughtful recommendations!

Amazing no Floris

 

[UESNYC]

Thanks hednic! Could you expand on why you think Colonia doesn't fit?



Actual LOL!

Again, thanks for all the considered responses. I've done a little googling on all of your recommendations, and come up with a list of decants to pick up. My choices were governed by what bottles I could easily access down here in NZ if I thought they were keepers.

• Chanel Pour Monsieur
• Cerutti 1881 Pour Homme
• Dunhill for Men
• Monsieur de Givenchy
• Pierre Cardin Pour Homme

Thanks again for all your thoughtful recommendations!

No Floris, no ADP or SMV 🥲

 

[Oviatt]

Many good options to which I will add: Armani Eau Pour Homme. So classic, so understated. Also Eau de Rochas Pour Homme.

 

[Toxicon]

Lots of excellent suggestions already. I'll second a few in particular:

• Chanel Pour Monsieur was the first that came to mind - meaning the original EDT, not the heavier EDP that came later (which would also suit for this purpose in colder weather, but the EDT is probably the single best recommendation for your original question).
• Cacharel pour l'Homme is wonderful and definitely fits the bill if you can hang with nutmeg. It is an absolute overdose of dry nutmeg, which otherwise shares a lot in terms of structure and feel with Guerlain Vetiver, though Cacharel is a bit quieter and easier to wear at work. Of everything I've bought since joining Basenotes, I've put the biggest dent by far in my bottle of CpH.
• Givenchy Vetiver/Vetyver - round, soft, take on vetiver, but just as classic as Guerlain Vetiver. This one emphasizes the nutty, autumnal aspects of vetiver. Really lovely; getting a bit harder to find, but it's still out there if you look. (I need a full bottle one of these days.
• Rochas Eau de Rochas Homme - effervescent citrus over clean vetiver and cedar. Probably my favorite summer citrus overall; simple and cooling on the skin.

And a few not already mentioned:

• Mugler Cologne - lovely green neroli + petitgrain EDC, extremely wearable, like a big green soap bubble.
• L'Occitane - L'Occitan - Gorgeous lavender, black pepper, nutmeg and a lightly woodsy base. Smells like the best bar of soap imaginable, perfect for your use case. I wore this yesterday and sniffed my wrist all day.
• Equipage Geranium - perfect work scent, with soapy geranium, light cloves, and smooth, eminently wearable leather.
• Rochas Moustache Original 1949 EDT - the original Moustache is probably too funky for work, but the reissue does the job minus the funk. It's a bright, summery citrus done up in the old-fashioned aromatic style. Doesn't smell like Eau Sauvage per se, but it's in that vein.