Understated Classics

[silverlifter]

I've been looking through this thread on the Classics and it got me thinking about a subset of many of the fragrances listed:

https://basenotes.com/threads/what-are-the-de-facto-designer-classics.528108/

I'm late to the fragrance game; fast approaching sixty and a white collar professional. I almost exclusively wear fragrances to work, and only for myself. I don't want to be noticed. It is probably anathema to most here, but I like the aromatherapy aspect of being able to catch faint whiffs throughout the day, without attacting attention. I like my frags staid, boring even.

What are the classic fragrances that are reserved, don't scream for attention, and yet are put together like a bespoke suit that just wears beautifully?

I curretly wear these:

• Acqua di Parma Colonia
• Chanel Égöiste
• Chanel Platinum Égöiste
• Chanel Sycomore
• Dior Eau Sauvage
• Guerlain Pour Homme L'eau Boisee
• Guerlain Vetiver
• Paco Rabanne Pour Homme

What else should I consider? Or, alternatively, of those listed doesn't belong in the list?

 

[StylinLA]

That's a very nice selection.

I would say that Chanel Egoiste is likely a bit more potent than "understated." Would not say it does not belong on the list- just that there's a bit more oomph in that one than is often perceived. I love it and though now retired, similar sort of profile as you.

I would toss out these for your consideration:

Creed Bois du Portugal / Creed Royal Oud - These two are elegant, not loud, but fairly pronounced, exec type scents. Royal Oud more modern; Bois du Portugal more stately. BdP is a great scent for a senior exec.

Guerlain Habit Rouge EdP - A very old school scent that wears close (at least on me). A bit strange in some ways, but feels fairly continental.
Though technically a leather scent it doens't strike me as leathery- just well blended.

L'Instant de Guerlain - A scent that sort of tip toes into gourmand territory but not overly sweet or cloying. Maybe a bit of a changeup for you. More playful for a mature guy but not like "trying too hard."

Caron No. 3/The Third Man - Not sure about including this one. An impossibly beautiful fougere. Very distinctive. I wouldn't call it feminine but jeesh is it a "pretty" scent.

 

[UESNYC]

Floris: #89, Jermyn Street and Honey Oud. Santa Maria Novella: Vetiver, Tobacco Toscano, Meligrano. Nicolai, New York and New York Intense. Profumum Roma: Antico Caruso, Arso

 

[StylinLA]

Floris: #89, Jermyn Street and Honey Oud. Santa Maria Novella: Vetiver, Tobacco Toscano, Meligrano. Nicolai, New York and New York Intense. Profumum Roma: Antico Caruso, Arso

Ahh, some good ones there too. Especially New York Intense.

But not so sure about No. 89. Love it and wearing it right now. That one packs way more punch than I believed. It is very nice, almost cologne like. But I have been informed it's blasting way more off me than I thought. It may not be as understated as OP seeks.

 

[sagebrush]

I've been looking through this thread on the Classics and it got me thinking about a subset of many of the fragrances listed:

https://basenotes.com/threads/what-are-the-de-facto-designer-classics.528108/

I'm late to the fragrance game; fast approaching sixty and a white collar professional. I almost exclusively wear fragrances to work, and only for myself. I don't want to be noticed. It is probably anathema to most here, but I like the aromatherapy aspect of being able to catch faint whiffs throughout the day, without attacting attention. I like my frags staid, boring even.

What are the classic fragrances that are reserved, don't scream for attention, and yet are put together like a bespoke suit that just wears beautifully?

I curretly wear these:

• Acqua di Parma Colonia
• Chanel Égöiste
• Chanel Platinum Égöiste
• Chanel Sycomore
• Dior Eau Sauvage
• Guerlain Pour Homme L'eau Boisee
• Guerlain Vetiver
• Paco Rabanne Pour Homme

What else should I consider? Or, alternatively, of those listed doesn't belong in the list?

Great list of classics.
I would add Bottega Veneta pH EdT. Well put-together, discreet, very work-appropriate. One of my go-tos. Fits your criteria.

 

[_Nicolas_]

Chanel Pour Monsieur EDT
Houbigant Duc de Vervins EDT (current)
Armani Eau Pour Homme (latest formulation)
Dunhill For Men
Dunhill Icon
Rochas Globe
Monsieur de Givenchy (preferably vintage)
Terre d'Hermes EDT
Cerruti 1881 PH

 

[UESNYC]

Ahh, some good ones there too. Especially New York Intense.

But not so sure about No. 89. Love it and wearing it right now. That one packs way more punch than I believed. It is very nice, almost cologne like. But I have been informed it's blasting way more off me than I thought. It may not be as understated as OP seeks.

hmmm never found that with 89

 

[Oviatt]

Great line up you've got there! You might try Azzaro Pour Homme and some of its flankers (happens to be my SOTD). There is a soapy masculinity about it that would be perfect for work--and after. The L'Eau flanker with its fresher citrus notes is really nice as well. I do not consider Azzaro Pour Homme to be my signature but looking at the number of times that I wear it--and the number of bottles I have of it--I think that it just might be.

I agree with _nichols_ that Armani Pour Homme would be another good addition. On a different note, 60 is just a number.

 

[Hedione HC]

I'd suggest to take a closer look into the classic cologne genres, which are often more subtle and discreet. So, your Eau Sauvage (Dior 1966) is already spot-on and (IMO) one - if not THE - most beautiful and 'classic' gentlemen's cologne.

Similar in construction to Eau Sauvage is Capucci pour Homme (Capucci, 1967) citrus with a more spicy twist and a bright floral (jasmine, cyclamen) note. (vintage if possible)

Neroli (Czech & Speake, 1981) is a beautiful example for a classic cologne featuring neroli (= distilled orange blossoms) embedded in a refreshing citrus blend with a hint of ylang ylang.

Wild Fern (Geo F. Trumper, 1877) one of the Fougère archetypes. Refreshing, clean and way more inoffensive and less sweet than most (newer) successors.

Almost unobtainable now is Creed's discontinued Bois de Cédrat - a brilliant blend of lemon, cedrat (aka citron), bergamot, petitgrain, lavender and cedarwood.

 

[WarmJewel]

I'm late to the fragrance game; fast approaching sixty and a white collar professional. I almost exclusively wear fragrances to work, and only for myself. I don't want to be noticed. It is probably anathema to most here, but I like the aromatherapy aspect of being able to catch faint whiffs throughout the day, without attacting attention. I like my frags staid, boring even.

Exactly, EXACTLY the same as me! Welcome to the retired/nearing retirement 'like to be perfectly groomed without being loud and screechy' old Gentleman's club!

What else should I consider? Or, alternatively, of those listed doesn't belong in the list?

Shame on you (just kidding) for not including the epitomy of and quintessential 'Gentleman's fragrance' Chanel Pour Monsieur. An absolute must have for any well groomed mature man in my personal opinion. For me, personally this has to be right up there with one of the very best masculine fragrances ever created.

There are many, a great many in the fragrance category you seek, which is suitable for you depends almost entirely on your own personal preferences. I'll throw out a few for you to consider but bear in mind for the most part I'm talking about the vintage versions rather than the current production ones. You can do your own research on the ones that interest you.

Givenchy - Monsieur de Givenchy
Dunhill - Cologne for Men
Azzaro - Pour Homme
Armani - Pour Homme
Carven - Monsieur Carven
Estee Lauder - Lauder for Men
Pierre Cardin - Pour Monsieur
Roger & Gallet - L'Homme
Rochas - Monsieur Rochas
Yves Saint Laurent - Pour Homme
Antonio Puig - Quorum
Floris - Elite (current version)
Floris - No. 89 (current version)

 

[TRBeck]

I’ll enthusiastically add to the chorus recommending Monsieur de Givenchy. I enjoy understated fragrances, as well. A few more that might suit, some of which I know are mentioned upthread:

Taylor of Old Bond St. Sandalwood
Dunhill for Men
Lorenzo Villoresi Uomo
Lalique Pour Homme (the EDP wears closer to the skin than the EDT)
Eau de Rochas Homme
Comme des Garçons Vettiveru 2

 

[Mythrol]

Monsieur de Givenchy, Givenchy Vetiver, Carven Vetiver, Dior Dune Pour Homme, Capucci Pour Homme, Bleu de Chanel (a bit more modern but not out of place for you). These are all subtle enough and gentlemanly enough that it won't be offensive to anyone and will still be enjoyable for you to wear.

 

[Hedione HC]

(...) I don't want to be noticed. It is probably anathema to most here, but I like the aromatherapy aspect of being able to catch faint whiffs throughout the day, without attacting attention. I like my frags staid, boring even.

What are the classic fragrances that are reserved, don't scream for attention, and yet are put together like a bespoke suit that just wears beautifully?
(...)

After reading your post a second time and since you mentioned "aromatherapy", I dare to suggest something somehow out of line albeit extremely conservative, sophisticated and understated: pure natural Sandalwood essential oil (Santalum album; Mysore origin preferred). Sandalwood oil is safe to be used directly (undiluted) on skin, at least in tiny amounts. But it can be used in spray form, diluted to 10% in high-proof pure ethanol. There are some threads on basenotes about sandalwood oil as a stand-alone perfume.

The balsamic-woody scent of a good quality sandalwood oil lingers on the skin for several hours surrounding (only!) you with whiffs of timeless luxury and understatement. There's hardly a chance that your environment will take any notice of you while you're wearing Sandalwood oil. On top of that, there's a bunch of aromatherapeutic properties associated with this oil. (The main constituent, Santalol, is even said to have anti-tumour effects.)

I have been obsessed with perfume and natural raw materials (e.g. essential oils etc.) for almost 4 decades. Forced to the question of the one and only scent allowed to proverbial desert island, I'd most likely choose the best (and oldest) sandalwood oil I can put my hands on!

 

[NettyYeti]

Many excellent suggestions already. A few more I haven’t seen mentioned already, which might also compliment your current wardrobe:

• For an elegant soapy rose: Boucheron Pour Homme (it performs well for me, so you might want to go light on the trigger).
• For cooler weather: Burberry London. Perhaps not classics, but Touch and Brit to me also convey “understated” and “well-put-together”.
• I don’t know if D&G Pour Homme is a classic, but it’s a good understated spicy tobacco.
• Likewise, I’m not sure I’d quite call Boss Bottled “bespoke”, but it’s a very comfortable wear.
• For a classy, crisp barbershop feeling: YSL Rive Gauche (if you can find it reasonably priced…if not, you can get the same general style in any number of “inspired by” fragrances, such as DUA’s River Fougere or Phoenix Artisan Accoutrement’s CaD).
• You could also focus on more modern takes on the barbershop style, such as Penhaligon’s Sartorial or Tom Ford Beau de Jour. This whole genre is full of excellent options (many of which could be considered modern classics) if that’s your style.
• If you decide to venture into more modern classics, Missoni Parfum Pour Homme takes the Bleu de Chanel Parfum DNA and adds more “mature” touches.
• Likewise, I find Terre d’Hermes Parfum a more rounded, elegant, and quieter version of the EDT.

 

[AndyL]

What are the classic fragrances that are reserved, don't scream for attention, and yet are put together like a bespoke suit that just wears beautifully?

A lot of amazing fragrances have been mentioned already. I would suggest you sample Cuir de Russie from the Les Exclusifs line of Chanel. Good luck!!

 

[davidcalgary29]

My co-workers really seem to enjoy Journey Man and Jubilation XXV. Those are about the only Amouage scents I'd wear at work, though.

Gucci Guilty Absolute is masterful, but it's a bit much for some people. It's also discontinued, which will make it difficult to find in the future.

 

[Ken_Russell]

Such a wonderful theme, impressively exemplified by already so many great names.
Also adding especially but not exclusively: Knize Forest, La Martina Hombre, Voyage d'Hermes EDT, Loewe para Hombre, Dunhill Edition, the Sport and l'Eau flankers of Caron pour un Homme, Acqua di Genova Colonia Classica, Yardely Citrus & Wood, Lalique White, current formulation Boss Number One.

 

[hednic]

Or, alternatively, of those listed doesn't belong in the list?

For me, Acqua di Parma Colonia

 

[UESNYC]

Such a wonderful theme, impressively exemplified by already so many great names.
Also adding especially but not exclusively: Knize Forest, La Martina Hombre, Voyage d'Hermes EDT, Loewe para Hombre, Dunhill Edition, the Sport and l'Eau flankers of Caron pour un Homme, Acqua di Genova Colonia Classica, Yardely Citrus & Wood, Lalique White, current formulation Boss Number One.

Acqua di Genova Colonia is an awesome one. It is still made and quite a bargain.

 

[Mythrol]

Such a wonderful theme, impressively exemplified by already so many great names.
Also adding especially but not exclusively: Knize Forest, La Martina Hombre, Voyage d'Hermes EDT, Loewe para Hombre, Dunhill Edition, the Sport and l'Eau flankers of Caron pour un Homme, Acqua di Genova Colonia Classica, Yardely Citrus & Wood, Lalique White, current formulation Boss Number One.

I've always wondered about the Knize flankers not named 10. It's good to see it mentioned here. Yardely Citrus & Wood is one I completely forgot about but is really nice. I agree Lalique White is a good fit as well.