Tuscan Leather dirty note

[Soultrainee]

Does anyone know what the dirty drydown note in Tuscan Leather is (I also detect it in Olympic Orchid's Salamanca and PM by Fragrance du Bois, among others). I assume it's a particular aromachemical vs. an accord. I think of it as a dirty ashtray/rough leather scent.

 

[pkiler]

Have you tried Castoreum?

 

[Soultrainee]

I love castoreum, but it's not the note I'm describing at all.

 

[Soultrainee]

I love castoreum, but it's not the note I'm describing at all.

 

[ScentAle]

Could be thymol and guaiacol? both present.

 

[smelly_liquid]

Probably mostly the pyralone. It's been a while since I smelled Salamanca but I think I remember the leather component also predominantly being isobutyl quinoline / or other IBQ related material.

I don't know the rules on linking to insta here but Christophe Laudamiel publicly shared a gcms of Tuscan Leather (on the fragrance.drama insta). Going by that gcms it's a relatively simple formula with minimal naturals. As mentioned above it does contain some guaiacol as well.

 

[Soultrainee]

I’ll have to check out pyralone (and fragrance.drama!). I doubt it’s IBQ, as I’m familiar with and love that scent, but I’m having trouble with this one.

Probably mostly the pyralone. It's been a while since I smelled Salamanca but I think I remember the leather component also predominantly being isobutyl quinoline / or other IBQ related material.

I don't know the rules on linking to insta here but Christophe Laudamiel publicly shared a gcms of Tuscan Leather (on the fragrance.drama insta). Going by that gcms it's a relatively simple formula with minimal naturals. As mentioned above it does contain some guaiacol as well.

 

[mnitabach]

I’ll have to check out pyralone (and fragrance.drama!). I doubt it’s IBQ, as I’m familiar with and love that scent, but I’m having trouble with this one.

Different materials sold as "IBQ" can be dramatically different in their scent & effects in compositions. Pyralone to me is much closer to isopropyl quinoline in scent than other IBQ materials and is very leathery.

 

[tyriekm]

Different materials sold as "IBQ" can be dramatically different in their scent & effects in compositions. Pyralone to me is much closer to isopropyl quinoline in scent than other IBQ materials and is very leathery.

Completely agree. I have a few different "IBQ" materials.

• IBQ from PA - it's quite green and leathery
• pyralone - it's not nearly as green as IBQ from PA, but it's also leathery but gives me a much more refined odor profile.
• IBQ from PSH - This one caught me by surprise because it seems nothing like the 2 above. Where the 2 above feel like close relatives, this IBQ feels less leathery and almost minty. I haven't revisited this one in a while so it might be a great time to do this.

 

[mnitabach]

Completely agree. I have a few different "IBQ" materials.

• IBQ from PA - it's quite green and leathery
• pyralone - it's not nearly as green as IBQ from PA, but it's also leathery but gives me a much more refined odor profile.
• IBQ from PSH - This one caught me by surprise because it seems nothing like the 2 above. Where the 2 above feel like close relatives, this IBQ feels less leathery and almost minty. I haven't revisited this one in a while so it might be a great time to do this.

My understanding is that the IBQ from PSH is 2-IBQ, which is quite different from the pyralone & other IBQ materials, which I think are "sec-IBQ" or whatever?

 

[jfrater]

My understanding is that the IBQ from PSH is 2-IBQ, which is quite different from the pyralone & other IBQ materials, which I think are "sec-IBQ" or whatever?

Yup - the latter is the one in Aventus and it is very distinctly different. I don't like it much to be honest but it does work very well in Aventus.

 

[mnitabach]

Yup - the latter is the one in Aventus and it is very distinctly different. I don't like it much to be honest but it does work very well in Aventus.

I love the smell of pyralone on its own. Sniffing the outside of the bottle cap of my dilutions is wonderful.

 

[jfrater]

I love the smell of pyralone on its own. Sniffing the outside of the bottle cap of my dilutions is wonderful.

Pyralone is the best of the regular isobutyl quinoline hands down. I sympathise with you smelling the bottle hah

 

[mnitabach]

Pyralone is the best of the regular isobutyl quinoline hands down. I sympathise with you smelling the bottle hah

Isopropyl quinoline that I bought from PCW smells & creates effects very similarly to Givaudan pyralone.

 

[jfrater]

Isopropyl quinoline that I bought from PCW smells & creates effects very similarly to Givaudan pyralone.

Yeah - though it is stronger and weedier. I really like Isopropyl quinoline - it is a good blender with IBQ - 10–30% or less ratio as a booster. It was the key quinoline in Patou Pour Homme Prive where it was needed to hold its own against the foin coupe and naturals.

 

[Gadgets82]

Im no pro, but i was under the impression that Ms. Covey used a mitti attar in salamanca, maybe that could be contributing to the "dirty" leather effect??

 

[Soultrainee]

Update: I got my hands on another sample (pyralone--not sure of the one I had on hand) and that was the note I was looking for. This means, IBQ is a scent I both love AND hate!

I'll have to do some side-by-side comparisons of different structures and distributors. That said, I still stand by IBQ--whatever that is!