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Toskovat' Perfumes

Shadowartisttxl

Well-known member
Mar 25, 2016
610
319
Having just received the @Toskovat' sample set, I figured now was the time to start a proper thread about the brand and chat about some of the fragrances. I can add more later, but I wanted to get some very preliminary initial thoughts out on this very interesting new house.

Silent at The Theme Park - This is a very nice semi-spicy fresh linden blossom/lemon eau de cologne styled fragrance. It's very calming and comforting to me. It is made interesting in that it is somewhat tart and spicy while still being a nice classical crisp and fresh citric edc styled fragrance. Somewhat reminds me of Andy Tauers Zeta. A lemon/lime fragrance done in a pleasant and non-extreme way that most lemon or lime fragrances tend to be.

Я - A semi-powdery purple leathery kind of fragrance. This one reminds of a less spicy and much more friendly version of L'Heure Bleue extrait. This one is deeply enjoyable to the spirit.

Age of Innocence - This is the first step towards the more experimental in the kit so far: it's not that it is a strawberry tinged oud, but rather it is something like an oud, rose oxide, cade tinged big strawberry bubblegum. I would say this is one of the more interesting non-oud-centric oud fragrance that I've smelled in quite some time. Feels like it could be in Prin's Strangers line, somewhat like Sangre Dulce, except less erratic and quirky.

Anarchist A - yet another experimental step. This one reminds me of some of the aldehydic Comme des Garcons fragrances: it's not fresh like a dryer sheet, but fresh and sterile like an 90's copier running right out of the box when she was brand new, in a fluorescent lit office. This might not sound appealing to some, but I love a great abstract experimental fragrance, so I think this is a success.

Pining Dew 2 - This kind of reminds me of a more indie variation on Roja's Elysium and Nishane's Hacivat without really referencing Aventus at all. The pineapple is seasoned with pepper - the vetiver and the juniper mix together very similarly to Elysium forming a kind of semi-earthy, semi-bitter, semi-sour accord. Very pleasant while being quirky and interesting enough to keep sniffing yourself.

Curtain Call - a very clean, gentle white floral with white musk. Slightly spiced. Slightly sweet. Slightly heady.

Empty Wishes Well - Another very enjoyable perfume. This is kind of a rainy, autumn leafy patchouli fragrance that smells like the softer more cinematic version of things like Serge Lutens De Profundis, Amouage Myths Man or maybe a weird mutant hybrid of Zoologist Bat and Dusita Erawan. This one is really a gem from what I have smelled so far. I would call this a crisp, cool autumn day for sure.

Génération Godard - Concept acheived. It smells like your brother is eating Popcorn, Coca Cola, caramel and other various jellybellies right next to you and breathing in your face. The copy has succeeded.

Things We Never Shared - this is another of the very experimental and strange fragrances. To me this one definitely has a skin lotion mixed with mulled fruit, bitter confection and maybe some old milk?

Inexcusable Evil - now talking about weird fragrances, this is far and away the weirdest of the bunch. I can't say I have ever smelled a fragrance that has felt eerie or actually sinister, but I think this is another instance where the copy has fully succeeded. I really don't know what to make of this. The gauze smell is certainly there. Maybe old bandaids? It smells at points like it is going to be maybe a sour cranberry drink, but instead takes a dark turn towards a feeling somewhat like your bodily secretions do after being on intense antibiotics. All this while remaining somewhat creamy? You also get the kind of rubber-band semi-woodiness that you find in cheaper oud fragrances like those by Al-Rehab, but it doesn't smell cheap here. Just intensely strange.

F2 - An extremely pleasant lightly vanillic, spiced fragrance, with some darker fruits, fresh citrus, and a chewy center. I would love it if this one became a regular.
 
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Theholyfilament

Well-known member
Jul 4, 2014
440
437
Thank you for the impressions on this very interesting new house, I’ve been following them on Instagram for a bit but haven’t gotten around to ordering samples.

Anarchist A - yet another experimental step. This one reminds me of some of the aldehydic Comme des Garcons fragrances: it's not fresh like a dryer sheet, but fresh and sterile like an 90's copier running right out of the box when she was brand new, in a fluorescent lit office. This might not sound appealing to some, but I love a great aldehydic fragrance, so I think this is a success.
I celebrate the return of the CDGesque weirdo industrial aldehyde bomb microgenre. Although I’ll admit the fantasy notes here just feel like shock marketing…or forcing the fragrantica staff to find increasingly niche stock photos for one off notes (priests clothes?) I think I’d be more enthused if it just listed out “aldehydes” lol
 

Shadowartisttxl

Well-known member
Mar 25, 2016
610
319
Thank you for the impressions on this very interesting new house, I’ve been following them on Instagram for a bit but haven’t gotten around to ordering samples.


I celebrate the return of the CDGesque weirdo industrial aldehyde bomb microgenre. Although I’ll admit the fantasy notes here just feel like shock marketing…or forcing the fragrantica staff to find increasingly niche stock photos for one off notes (priests clothes?) I think I’d be more enthused if it just listed out “aldehydes” lol
I can't say I love fantasy notes, but to be fair CdG beat him to it anyway.
'Industrial glue, brown scotch tape, instant film"
They are worse on their own - fragrantica gave them a big fat nope when they list "The Freshness of Oxygen, Flaming Rock, Freshly Mowed Grass, Wash Drying in the Wind, Sand Dunes, Pure Air of the High Mountains, Flash of Metal, Nail Polish"
LOL
 

Dr B1414

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Oct 21, 2019
1,114
1,349
Nice impressions. I wanted to get samples when they opened last year but they didn't offer them at that time. Since then, I have focused more on other passions and enjoyed my collection, so I'll probably never get samples of them now, as I decided to stay loyal to only a few select noses that won me over the years. But I still enjoy reading about new houses and following up with new releases, because you never know. Therefore, I much appreciate your write-up on these.
 

Toskovat'

New member
Jan 18, 2023
5
12
Thank you for the impressions on this very interesting new house, I’ve been following them on Instagram for a bit but haven’t gotten around to ordering samples.


I celebrate the return of the CDGesque weirdo industrial aldehyde bomb microgenre. Although I’ll admit the fantasy notes here just feel like shock marketing…or forcing the fragrantica staff to find increasingly niche stock photos for one off notes (priests clothes?) I think I’d be more enthused if it just listed out “aldehydes” lol
Hello guys, thank you for your interest in my work!

I can confirm Anarchist A_ has completely 0% aldehydes. The dollar & credit card accord are made out of various saffron, pepper, grapefruit, coffee, wood and musky materials with the slightest touch of indole.
 

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