Review: 100 Year Old Mysore Sandalwood

[Hedione HC]

(...)

On wine, sure a high end wine is universally enjoyed but I'd argue not as much or to the same level as someone with a trained palate. I think the average person would also think a top-tier sandalwood oil is a nice experience too, but imo it can't be fully appreciated without some experience either.

Although having absolutely zero experience with wine, I totally agree. I think, that applies to many areas, e.g. music. As an audiophile devotee to classical music I assume that you'll need quite a lot of time and experience to appreciate highly sophisticated works like Bach's Art of the fugue, Beethoven's late string quartets or Max Reger for example. Unlike good sandalwood or wine, this kind of music is unfortunately not even remotely comparatively appreciated by average people...

 

[Mr.P]

I agree with the consensus, that the beautiful aspects of top shelf Sandalwood are not easy to appreciate in a typical perfume mixture.

I’m sure most have experienced the heavy blanket effect of this oil. I found just the smallest traces of it can really mess with the top notes of delicate fragrances while not radiating much of a detectable sandalwood aspect.

The person who said that fine sandalwood oil really performs best in Sandalwood focused attar style perfumery is right on.

For those of you have only smelled commercial plantation stuff. I hope someday you get a chance to apply a big swipe of a slowly distilled oil from an old tree. You will be surrounded by clouds of shifting warm woody and dry “fresh snow” fragrance (my association) for the next 8-12 hours. If you come close to someone who you like or give them a hug, they will love the way you smell. Sandalwood doesn’t scream for attention like modern perfumes, but it definitely makes its presence known IF it is not a bland plantation oil and if you apply enough of it (and if nobody is wearing a modern highly processed perfume chemical mishmash in the room.)

 

[ourmess]

On wine, sure a high end wine is universally enjoyed but I'd argue not as much or to the same level as someone with a trained palate.

$3 wines win competitions when judges with "trained palates" have to taste them blind, without the marketing to guide them.

 

[Mr.P]

The experience with wine may not really apply… I think the point here is about the method of production and the actual liquid itself not whether retail price is a reliable predictor of quality.

There is no way that anyone with exposure to a variety of high and low quality sandalwood oils (who had taken time to study them) would have any difficulty distinguishing top shelf from mediocre Sandalwood. There is this richness of notes in the good stuff that is completely absent in the low grade commonplace material.

I’ve heard about the occasional cheap wine getting very high reviews, but that may relate more to sales and marketing, and the pricing of the bottles as opposed to the method of production and quality of what’s inside. If someone presents these connoisseurs with a few truly carefully crafted wines of high-quality (regardless of prices at the liquor store) and then provides them with some specimens that were mass produced without regard to proper terroir, harvest time, aging, etc. I am guessing the results would be pretty different.

Sandalwood oil steam distilled from plantation trees in random geographic regions always seems to have a markedly different and duller “limp” profile compared to a hydrodistilled oil from an old tree of Indian origin, and I am guessing wine from a good region from mature vines, picked at the perfect point in the season and carefully processed with traditional methods will produce a more interesting product.

To some degree costs reflects methodology, but not so much in our modern world I think. Obviously stuff will cost more if the methods of production require more time and energy and selection of choice raw materials, so price may also be some indicator. I

 

[Mr.P]

Agreed, I managed to get some small (15-18g) bottles of Sultan Qaboos' Jasmine and Sandalwood EOs, the Jasmine is better than I thought possible! The Sandalwood is also top-tier, but I expected that. I have some very good Jasmine Abs but the SQ oil is on another level. I also picked up a 42-tola bottle of Taif rose oil... should last me a little while.

That scale of purchasing is incomprehensible to me. I’ve been stressing over the price of a quarter tola of taif for the last 5 years and stretching my 10 mL of Bulgarian otto…

Do you have any info. about how the jasmine oil from qaboos’ stash was extracted, which species, geographic, origin, etc.? I have read a couple of other mentions of this particular oil but only as “jasmine”, and I am curious about what it is so I can figure out if I want to beg a couple of collectors I know for a sample.

The best grandiflorum I have is a “florasol” extract of Indian jasmine using something like inhaler, propellant. The particular technique was pioneered by someone named Peter Wilde who developed relatively affordable portable equipment for this type of extraction, and produced a handful of oils on his own early in his career.

I wouldn’t have guessed that the oil was from India, doesn’t smell like it’s from Egypt or morocco either. It just has a kind of universal clean, tangy, delicious, deeply appealing candy like top/mid note and a very lifelike fresh flower dry down. A deep whiff reveals all these different layers of complex floral and fruity notes. The thing that sets it apart is that it’s almost like perfume, because it does not to me smell off/odd at any point in its evolution if applied neat to the skin. Many of the other Jasmine oils i have sampled have one or two of the following issues (mildly or intensely): a tiny bit fermented / sour at first; distracting violet leaf note; clinging litter box level indole; a simple linear dull scent; bland dry down, “old
Lady perfume” dry down etc.


I managed to squirrel away about 16 mL - but the question is how long will it retain its fresh qualities? I’m worried about it going downhill and am beginning to realize I’d better use it up. It would be a tragedy if I just left it until it lost its scintillating charm.

 

[jfrater]

$3 wines win competitions when judges with "trained palates" have to taste them blind, without the marketing to guide them.

I have to say I think this is most likely the result of demoralisation "journalism" - very popular these days as it gets many clicks. If a $3 wine wins all the awards in blind tests (and they are always blind tests - marketing material is not typically handed to judges before a wine tasting test) it won't be a $3 wine for long!

 

[Jolieo]

I have tiny quantities of good Indian sandalwood , a little bit more of weird smelling ( doesn’t fit classic profile - but I adore it) , some indeterminate twice from psh, Australian from eb- and I love them all - but the real value I see- for me as a beginner blender of scents , is that sandalwood is a vehicle that lends itself to any profile- the great sandalwood needs to be blended carefully, with beautiful things- care is needed
the weaker stuff I adore ( it’s usually pretty inexpensive) because I can put a few things in- have it sit- and I have wonderful meld- ofcourse it’s an attar of sorts- a slow release formula - I wish I had money to buy oodles of low odor sandalwood-I do love the expensive stuff too- I feel worse about covering it’s beautiful odor , even with other beautiful odors- I feel more pressure to “ get it right” which can really stifle my muse

 

[Mr.P]

Lighter aroma Sandalwood as a carrier is a solid idea.

 

[thesacredsaguaro]

$3 wines win competitions when judges with "trained palates" have to taste them blind, without the marketing to guide them.

Yeah but if you gave those wines to an actual certified Sommelier who ARE trained to detect the terroir, vintage, crops and regions of the grapes used in the process they’d know what they’re tasting. There’s a difference from what universally smells/tastes “good” or well liked and what smells/taste high quality. I genuinely enjoy Barefoot Moscato and would choose it over some ultra fancy wine but the taste test is different from the quality test and they shouldn’t be confused.

 

[Andy the frenchy]

I have tiny quantities of good Indian sandalwood , a little bit more of weird smelling ( doesn’t fit classic profile - but I adore it) , some indeterminate twice from psh, Australian from eb- and I love them all - but the real value I see- for me as a beginner blender of scents , is that sandalwood is a vehicle that lends itself to any profile- the great sandalwood needs to be blended carefully, with beautiful things- care is needed
the weaker stuff I adore ( it’s usually pretty inexpensive) because I can put a few things in- have it sit- and I have wonderful meld- ofcourse it’s an attar of sorts- a slow release formula - I wish I had money to buy oodles of low odor sandalwood-I do love the expensive stuff too- I feel worse about covering it’s beautiful odor , even with other beautiful odors- I feel more pressure to “ get it right” which can really stifle my muse

Humans always tend to be willing to interpret, and re-interpret scents and food, to 'improve' what nature has produced. There's often balsamic vinegar on a burrata served here. Becasue the burrata that arrives here is industrial, so it needs to be improved. But when getting a real one, in (a good plae) in Puglia, it's already an explosion of tastes, that any human action would irremediably be a worsening of it.
Humans cant accept that touching that is a mistake, in the best case, or a demonstration of poor taste, in the worst. They need to put their names on a menu, or a bottle. To say it's mine. (and to moneytize, of course).
Often, the best way to enjoy natural perfection is not to touch it. Because the only result is to ruin it. Using great ingredients is great, but there's no point to if those are not respected, to start with.

In a nutshell: I agree with you that using natural sandalwood oil in blends is a very risky thing, as in my little experience, I enjoyed it much more solo.

 

[Hedione HC]

Now the "Golden Bough" oil (GB) from AromaSublime has arrived. In keeping with the thread topic, here is my perception and assessment:

Compared to my Mysore oil from around 2010, GB is lighter in color, but still darker than, for example, the Indian Sandalwood oil from PSH. The GB is also a bit more mobile in consistency. To round off the visual appearance, I would like to point out the beautiful, high-quality glass bottle with integrated glass swab.

Now about the smell of the oil itself. I have to add that I have smelled numerous sandalwood oils in the past decades, but only "regular" oils of good quality in my opinion, however no high-end oils like this one.

Already at the beginning, even before applying it to the skin, I notice unusually sweet notes that spontaneously remind me of sugar, syrup, styrax oil (cinnamon alcohol) but also of wine-like nuances of special patchouli and rose oils. So there is also a clear floral component. At the same time, I notice a very slightly smoky, somewhat greasy note, which unfortunately immediately makes me think of ham. (Maybe, this would be perceived more animalic rather than ham by others.) Finally, the olfactory opening is complemented by velvety-woody notes, which I would like to call "Precious Woods".

This impression remains even in the first minutes after application to the skin. For me, the sweet, balsamic elements dominate. What I have so far perceived as a typical sandalwood note is rather in the background in this oil, at least in the beginning. I'm a bit irritated and can't help but think of an oud oil that I smelled in the early 1990s. I am also reminded of the vintage version of the men's fragrance "Gold" by Amouage. This could be due to the unusually rich and complex bouquet of this oil. When I constantly smell the back of my hand, I get the impression that I smell a 'real' perfume rather than an essential oil.

In the next few hours, the smoky ham association disappears and the well-known sandalwood core becomes a little more noticeable. I'm saying ‘a little’ because, to my disappointment, the sweet floral elements continue to play an important role. Oh dear, the floral elements! As beautiful and lovely as they may be, I find them to be a flaw in this oil, which clearly shifts the fragrance profile of this oil from the warm-woody basic tone in a different direction and reminds me more of sandalwood oils of other species, e.g. Santalum lanceolatum. In the fresh air, an emerging suspicion is confirmed: the floral aspects are due to farnesol (and derivates). At this moment, my confusion turns into slight disappointment. I have never noticed delicate floral farnesol notes in an album oil before. As far as I know, mainly the oils of Santalum spicatum and S. lanceolatum are characterized by high farnesol contents. - Well, I like farnesol and Santalum album - as long as they don't make their appearance at the same time!

Unfortunately, I cannot confirm that the oil adheres to the skin for a particularly long time. Maybe, I put on too less of it. Compared to my 2010 Mysore and the PSH oil, GB is slightly weaker. This is not a real point of criticism for me, but the clear floral farnesol note that shows up in the fragrance course makes GB an extremely costly disappointment for me.

To reassure you, these are my impressions on the first day. Of course, I will continue to test the oil in the next few days and also observe it on the scent strip. But at the moment, I can't do anything about my slight subjective dislike of this oil. In order to get the "sandalwood feeling" that I'm so fond of, I would prefer the PSH oil myself, let alone my Mysore 2010, which now appears to me more beautiful than ever!

 

[Mr.P]

I have heard for years that most sandalwood sold in india is no longer Indian in origin, and that the majority of wood processed there is imported. I think this has been the case for a pretty long time. Not sure of the details but I have certainly read my share of blogs of people going to India to seek for Indian sandalwood and coming up with nothing.

 

[Hedione HC]

After a few days of actual wearing Golden Bough, I have to modify my previous review slightly. Maybe, I had to get used to this kind of oil first. My first associations with ham and smoke transformed into honey and oud now. More important to me: I can detect an impressively strong and honeyed sandalwood now. Longevity and diffusion: after 1-2 hours the scent dries down significantly, lingering on the skin for the rest of day with a very soft and mellow sweet-balsamic-floral sandalwood note. Even the next morning there's still a soft and sweet whisper noticeable.

I have to correct my statements concerning a too prominent farnesol note. Without a doubt to me this oil has a strong floral side, but that has likely not so much to do with farnesol.

However, this oil is significantly different to regular sandalwood oil like the oils from PSH or Fraterworks for example.

Regarding my previous slight disappointment, I'm starting to like and appreciate Golden Bough. So, all's well that ends well!

 

[Hedione HC]

Just a brief, cautionary warning to those contemplating purchasing this oil:
I presented my mother 3 different sandalwood oils (Indian Sandalwood/PSH, Mysore Sandalwood/Fraterworks, Golden Bough/AromaSublime) on scent strips. (She definitely isn't an expert in perfumery nor is she interested in perfumery at all. She just enjoys wearing perfumes. A typical example of 'average people'.)
Her reaction to the oils was sort of enlightening to me. She wasn't able to tell apart the first 2 oils, but she liked the smell of each. The last (3rd) scent strip was the Golden Bough and after smelling it she instantly made a face and said it reminded her of medicine or tincture of iodine from her childhood. It really disgusted her!

Although this is by no means representative, I wanted to share this reaction. Just be prepared that this very oil might be uncomfortable for other people around you!

I'll use/wear Golden Bough anyway. But my old Mysore oil surely will remain my biggest sandalwood love and after this extremely expensive experience I won't look further for the holy grail. There's no use chasing rainbows when you're already sitting on the pot of gold!

 

[Mr.P]

I’ve smelled that medicinal note in oud oil but never sandalwood, and I’ve smelled a decent amount of sandalwood.

 

[Hedione HC]

@Mr.P Same here, that's why I'm still a bit puzzled. Maybe, this thread should be moved to the main forum (general discussion or oud section)? This very oil is mostly intended for wearing on its own rather than blending. I'd like to hear about other people's experience with Golden Bough.

 

[YogaNerdMD]

@Mr.P Same here, that's why I'm still a bit puzzled. Maybe, this thread should be moved to the main forum (general discussion or oud section)? This very oil is mostly intended for wearing on its own rather than blending. I'd like to hear about other people's experience with Golden Bough.

On the contrary, this thread has been so massively helpful to me, a Mysore sandalwood addict who is taking her first big-girl steps into the world of "real" perfumery thanks to her love of this stuff. I've been contemplating an order to AromaSublime for a minute now, and am eager to hear thoughts as well, but also as someone who's "pie in the sky" final dream is to construct a luxe sandalwood-based perfume for herself <3

 

[Puddinman]

I have enjoyed this discussion . . . ultimately aesthetic pursuits are subjective experiences, informed by our own particular quirks in perception, thought, etc. Further, it has been my experience that the further you pursue an item of aesthetic appreciation (like perfumery in general or sandalwood appreciation specifically) the more there is a strong element of socialization, regimentation, tribalism and groupthink amongst people who share that interest.

We see it on every forum, blog, article and wherever aficionados gather together . . . the tendency is to divide into tribes who appreciate some facet of the "thing" and have disdain for any other tribe who -heaven forfend!- appreciates some other aspect. Like in the sandalwood world, it seems to me that if you don't think that incredibly expensive, slow distilled, super-aged Mysore S. Album is THE best kind of sandalwood, well, there's something wrong with you!

But who defined what criteria "THE best" should be judged by? I say it was the result of 1)Marketing and self-delusion, but more importantly and less cynically, 2)The socialization, regimentation, tribalism and groupthink I mentioned before. Like . . . why do I not hear about people who find Hawaiian sandalwood to be the best? Because to my nose (and I have little experience with actual sandalwood oil), the Hawaiian sandalwood oil I have is better than the Australian and 2 samples of Mysore I also own. Heretic!

Yes, yes . . . I know, "It's just that you don't have enough experience yet," or, "You must own the cheaper plantation Mysore oils," or "just wait 'til you try that slow-distilled, ultra-aged Mysore from a wild tree cut down in 1742!" or any other way of invalidating my own experiences and preferences. And that's exactly the kind of thing I'm talking about. It's that insistence, in the circles of the connoisseur, that I am just plain wrong -the very negation of my own agency (ok, that was a bit of sophistry)- that will, if I want to be accepted in the sandalwood community, teach me to doubt myself and eventually learn to prefer the scent profile I'm "supposed to."

I guess what I'm saying is that we should all learn to just chill and stop trying to convince each other that we are right about something there is no objective right or wrong about. If someone doesn't appreciate the same things you do, it doesn't make them less refined than you. It just makes them different.

 

[Culpa Ire]

Heretic!

 

[mnitabach]

Heretic!

Five long paragraphs of polemic aimed at convincing ppl not to try to convince ppl of things is definitely a trip... 😹 😹 😹