QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Index and Week 1 (Shalimar and Opium)

[Ebenas]

UPDATE: April 2022, this thread recorded a quest by a few determined Basenoters to test and discuss all the scents in Turin and Sanchez's Top 100. We got through almost all of them - I think there was only one we couldn't get our noses on. (I'm currently fixing the links to the individual week threads - we did two a week.

Ladies and Gentlemen of Basenotes, clear your nostrils!

This is a quest to go through the 100 (well ~95) perfumes in the smaller Luca Turin/Tania Sanchez book - The Little Book of Perfumes: 100 Classics.

This thread is an index and has discussions for Week 1. Below is the list of links to the other weekly threads

Week 2: Eau Sauvage (Dior) / Homme (Dior)

Week 3: HALLOWEEN: Poison (Dior) / Angel (Mugler)

Week 4: Rive Gauche (YSL) / Aromatics Elixir (Clinique)

Week 5: Tommy Girl (Hilfiger) / Aprés L'Ondée (Guerlain)

Week 6: Cristalle (Chanel) and Diorella (Dior)

Week 7: 31 Rue Cambon (Chanel) and Iris Silver Mist (Serge Lutens)

Week 8: No. 5 (Chanel) and Chamade (Guerlain)

Week 9: Azurée (Estée Lauder) and White Linen (Estée Lauder)

Week 10: Rush (Gucci) and Tocade (Rochas)

Week 11: Sycomore (Chanel) and Timbuktu (L'Artisan Parfumeur)

Week 12: Bois des Iles (Chanel) and Dune (Dior)

Week 13: Amouage Gold and No. 5 Parfum (Chanel)

Week 14: 1740 Marquis de Sade (Histoires de Parfums) and Cuir de Russie (Chanel)

Week 15: Pour Monsieur (Chanel) and Azzarro pour Homme

Week 16: Loulou (Cacharel) and Boucheron (Boucheron)

Week 17: La Myrrhe (Lutens) and L'Air du Desert Marocain (Tauer)

Week 18: Black (Bulgari) and Dzing! (L'Artisan Parfumeur)

Week 19: Lolita Lempicka and L'Heure Bleue (Guerlain)

Week 20: Envy (Gucci) and Ormonde Man (Ormonde Jayne)

Week 21: Private Collection (Lauder) and Ormonde Woman (Ormonde Jayne)

Week 22: Jicky (Guerlain) and Odalisque (Parfums de Nicolai)

Week 23: Habit Rouge (Guerlain) and 3ème Homme (Caron)

Week 24: Mitsouko (Guerlain) and Vol de Nuit (Guerlain)

Week 25: Ça Sent Beau (Kenzo) and Beyond Paradise (Lauder)

Week 26: Bois de Violette (Serge Lutens) and Grey Flannel (Geoffrey Beene)

Week 27: Bandit (Robert Piquet) and Knize 10 (Knize)

Week 28: Fracas (Robert Piquet) and Chinatown (Bond No. 9)

Week 29: Knowing (Lauder) and Pleasures (Lauder)

Week 30: Joy (Patou) and Nahéma (Guerlain)

Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Issey Miyake)

Week 32: Invasion Barbare (Parfums MDCI) and Lavender (Caldey Island)

Week 33: Oud Cuir d'Arabie (Montale) and Patchouli 24 (Le Labo)

Week 34: Pour un Homme (Caron) and Vanilia (L'Artisan Parfumeur)

Week 35: Promesse de l'Aube (Parfums MDCI) and Enlevement au Serail (Parfums MDCI)

Week 36: Badgley Mischka and Osmanthe Yunnan (Hermès)

Week 37: Calyx (Prescriptives) and Eau de Guerlain

Week 38: Yatagan (Caron) & New York (Parfums de Nicolai)

Week 39: Givenchy III & Le Temps d'une Fête (Parfums de Nicolai)

Week 40: Homage (Amouage) & Ubar (Amouage)

Week 41: Calandre (Paco Rabanne) and Sarrasins (Serge Lutens)

Week 42: Missoni (Missoni) and Insolence (Guerlain)

Week 43: Beyond Paradise Men (Estée Lauder) and Insensé (Givenchy)

Week 44: Kouros (Yves Saint Laurent) and Sécrétions Magnifiques (Etat Libre d'Orange)

Week 45: Breath of God (LUSH) and Unifaith (Elternhaus)

Week 46: 100% Love (S-Perfume) and S-eX (S-Perfume)

Week 47: Yohji Homme (Yohji Yamamoto) and Scent(Theo Fennel)

Week 48: Or Black (Pascal Morabito) and Derby (Guerlain)

Each week, there are two perfumes nominated from the lists, and everyone is welcome to give their opinions, discuss, review... The weeks are officially from Monday to Sunday, but the next week's thread is opened on the Friday of the previous week to allow each week to span two weekends.

The thread started as I noticed that I don't know all of the 100 classics in the book.

The idea is to go through them all week by week, and that anyone who likes can comment on the week's perfumes. It doesn't matter whether you try ones you own, do some 'sniff and run' in shops, or comment from memory - all contributions are welcome!

Hopefully trying them all (or some of them) and commenting will broaden everyone's enjoyment and understanding of these classics.

Hopefully, we'll make it through them all. I've divided the Turin/Sanchez list into two parts, easier and harder to get hold of (copied at end of this post).

This thread will serve as an index to the quest and as the first week's record. There will be a new thread each week and links to each weekly thread will be added to this post.

BN has a fantastic community ranging from Yodas of Scent to complete beginners, so hopefully we'll get all sorts of opinions and discussions here!

 

[Ebenas]

Opium

I had it all mapped out...

Went to Dublin's premier department store, YSL counter had two different Opium bottles - both saying EDT (I think!), Anyway, I got a good spray or two of the square amber coloured bottle, and it immediately brought me back to my youth. I don't know who used to wear it in my family/mother's friends but the spicy dry citrussy hit was very familiar to me.

My plan was to put Opium on one arm and Shalimar on the other but couldn't find Guerlain counter. Probably better this way as I can't imagine the width of my (ample) waist is enough to separate these two!

Opium is spicy, a little peppery, with a sort of composite balsamy warm block of scent in the middle. Oddly, it reminds me of a couple of far more modern orientals (L'Artisan's Mon Numéro Dix and some others I can't quite remember right now). It's a little sweet, but not in any way cloying or sugary - well, on the cloying front, it is a windy autumn night here and it's quite strong so I imagine it wouldn't be the best for a crowded lift. In the beginning there was a nice sharp dryness to it too.

That block of smells also reminds me of Youth Dew, which was a firm favourite of my mother's crowd - there's an odd sort of 'manufactured' feeling to the mixture, something like the unnaturalness but goodness of Coca-Cola - it doesn't actually smell like Coke - more that the blend is clearly a man-made object not found in nature.

I'd love to try the original - especially if it's less sweet.

4 hours later and it's a lovely spicy incense, and seems to have lost the sweetness - it still has that 'finished' or 'man-made' feel, which is just a comment, not a complaint.

 

[Way Off Scenter]

...

Discontinued
Badgley Mischka Badgley Mischka
Beyond Paradise Men Estée Lauder
Enlèvement au Sérail Parfums MDCI
Le Feu d'Issey Issey Miyake
Promesse de l’Aube Parfums MDCI
Scent Theo Fennel
Vanilia L'Artisan Parfumeur
Yatagan Caron
Yohji Homme Yohji Yamamoto

Since when is Yatagan discontinued? Did I miss something?

Also worth noting that Yohji Homme has been reintroduced, though I can't comment on the new incarnation, as I haven't smelled it yet...

 

[Ebenas]

Since when is Yatagan discontinued? Did I miss something?

Also worth noting that Yohji Homme has been reintroduced, though I can't comment on the new incarnation, as I haven't smelled it yet...

Duly noted and lists amended - thanks!

 

[Redneck Perfumisto]

Sounds fun! Although I'm tempted to cheat on some of these with flankers. :wink:

 

[Ebenas]

Sounds fun! Although I'm tempted to cheat on some of these with flankers. :wink:

I don't think that'd be a problem - as long as we get some opinions on originals, it'd be great to hear about flankers - as we'll be looking at two perfumes a week and each week will have its own thread, there'll be plenty of room!

 

[PerfumedLady]

Just a note-you've been stickied at the top of the forum. What a wonderful idea this is; enjoy!

 

[Ebenas]

Shalimar
Another one I don't have - liberally sprayed EdP in a shop.

It was quite sharp to begin with and has developed into a pretty straight amber with vanilla. I still find it a bit acrid sharp - it could be described as smokey but not in a good way. I'll give it another while - can't reject one of the greatest classics on one wearing! (dare I say it.... um, I, uh, think I prefer Opium...)

 

[MrsDalloway]

I love Shalimar. I do remember reading that the modern edp is not the best concentration, so perhaps it would be worth you trying edt or even edc if you can find them?

I have a vintage edc, which is just gorgeous, and a modern parfum (tester from eBay). I've never worn them side by side, so will do so for this thread and report back.

 

[Ebenas]

I love Shalimar. I do remember reading that the modern edp is not the best concentration, so perhaps it would be worth you trying edt or even edc if you can find them?

I have a vintage edc, which is just gorgeous, and a modern parfum (tester from eBay). I've never worn them side by side, so will do so for this thread and report back.

Great idea! Will go to a different shop today and see what they have.

 

[Vernona]

Ebenas, this is such a great thread!! Excellent idea! I am really looking forward to reading yours and everyone else's opinions.

Neither Opium nor Shalimar are my thing. Both being far too hardcore deep oriental. Opium far too spicy and overwhelming and Shalimar too skanky. I know Shalimar is thought to be one of the best vanilla perfumes ever, but I believe none of us who enjoy straight up, foody vanillas can find themselves in Shali. First off, the stinky bergamot part and when that is finally gone, the struggle with ashy, leathery, animalic part. Yes, the vanilla note in it is beautiful, if only I could filter it from everything else around
Since Shalimar is so loved and respected I kept coming back to it and testing it over the years, I still spritz it every now and then when in department stores, in case I changed my mind. But vanilla is probably my favourite note and it represents comfort to me. I could never feel comforted by Shalimar. I tried various flankers too, and liked none except Parfum Initial, which is now discontinued and it does not smell like Shalimar a lot. I mean, you can link it to Shalimar allright, but most of the things I hate have been removed.

 

[Lilly33]

I love Shalimar. I do remember reading that the modern edp is not the best concentration, so perhaps it would be worth you trying edt or even edc if you can find them?

I have a vintage edc, which is just gorgeous, and a modern parfum (tester from eBay). I've never worn them side by side, so will do so for this thread and report back.

I love Shalimar but agree that modern Shalimar edp is not the best, as a matter of fact it's the only version in which I smelled that infamous "baby diaper" note.

This thread is a wonderful idea! I do have access to many of the fragrances on the list and look forward to sniffing, commenting and reading others' opinions.

 

[yellowtone]

You started the thread! Cool! I'm joining in today with Shalimar, of which I have a small EdP mini of unknown vintage (probably quite recent though).

I far prefer the EdP to the EdT, since I found the former to be far darker, smokier, and weirder than the more polite, citrus-led EdT when I tried both side by side in the store (unlike most current day consumers, I tend to prefer heavy, thick and intense over light and subtle). In the EdP, the citrus (bergamot) in the opening is not particularly fresh, but gives of a dry vibe that, together with the smoke, gives a slightly oily earl grey like impression. However, the scent immediately also has a firm animalic presence that keeps it from going "nice". I also get a lot of rubber and of course the vanilla is present. In Shalimar, the combination of vanilla/citrus/animalics and herbs (something rosemary like?) works perfectly for me, while a similar combination in Jicky can leave me feeling nausciated at times. I think I the main difference is that Shalimar is dryer to my nose. For a vanilla-centric perfume, it's not particularly sweet, which I appreciate, although it sweetens and becomes more balsamic the longer it's on my skin. After a few hours of wear it truly becomes a comfort blanket type of scent.

Shalimar is one of the first big classical perfumes I tried when I started discovering perfumes for real about a year ago, and I liked it enough to consider buying the EdP at one point, but then I introduced my sister to it and she took to it like a fish to water, and I completely understand this match. To me, she is the perfect person to wear Shalimar: a larger than life type A personality with a big mouth and an even bigger heart (and a blonde; for some reason Shalimar is for blondes, in my mind). So I leave this wonderful fragrance to her, and just keep a small mini for myself as a reference point in my fragrance drawer. I'm more of a Mitsouko girl, as it turns out.

 

[CookBot]

I far prefer the EdP to the EdT, since I found the former to be far darker, smokier, and weirder than the more polite, citrus-led EdT

Excellent notes, Yellowtone! You actually made me want to give Shalimar another chance, since I've never warmed up to it.

 

[yellowtone]

Cook.bot please do! I never ever reach for it, as it is "not quite me", but wearing it today makes me realize just how fucking awesome it really is. Unapologetically NOT modern; big, expansive, assertive goodness. I also remember hugging my sister's baby and smelling her Shalimar on that infant's little head, it's quite maternal.

 

[Way Off Scenter]

Duly noted and lists amended - thanks!

It would have been pretty tragic to lose either of these (again, in the case of Yohji Homme). I'm glad they didn't go belly-up while I wasn't looking!

 

[mammakay]

I bought a mini of Shalimar just to summon the memories of my grandmother. Ada Mae was larger than life and EXUBERANT.

The scent of original Shalimar brings back Christmases from 1958 until 1970-something. She'd come in, laden with packages, and bend down to kiss us. The tinkling noise of her charm bracelet, the feel of the fox fur collar of her coat on our faces, and the smell of red lipstick and SHALLYMAR!

Thank you, Guerlain, for putting the memory in a bottle.

 

[Ebenas]

mammakay

That's such a lovely memory!

I had another run at Shalimar today.

I went and tested Shalimar EdT, and had the same not so great reaction to the opening as I did with the EdP. Now, a few hours later, it's ambery with a dry vanilla. Mammakay's story made me think... yes, Shalimar is like something that went with well put together style of another time. I think when women dressed more with make up and jewellery, a strong and dense perfume had a stage to shine on. Maybe it's my generation's (or more accurately MY) more relaxed (and probably quite careless) attitude to dress and grooming that makes Shalimar a bit of a challenge - it just isn't casual or expansive enough. I find it somewhat like a well tailored 40's coat or suit - confidently and uncompromisingly feminine, whose wearer is not hiding any curves and is wearing lipstick. But for me, it's a little too much. Although I must say I like the EdT better than the EdP I tried the other day. Funnily enough, I didn't have the same feeling at all with Opium, which seems more open in some way.

Also, I noticed that two of three large perfume departments in Dublin stores don't have a Guerlain counter - I'm absolutely sure they did a few years ago - I hope this is not an omen!

Update: several hours later - the drydown is gorgeous!!! It's lost the odd tightness and is, as yellowtone says, an expansive comfort blanket!

Good call on the EdT, MrsDalloway!

 

[mammakay]

Ebenas - I hope you're right. It seems like Guerlain has gone downmarket to where the money is - the Sephoras and the fruitchouli counters in mainstream department stores. Even Saks here in New Orleans has dropped the entire line.

Also - on the "hard to find" list, you might move Chanel 31 Rue Cambon to the Discontinued list. According to the Chanel rep, much of the Exclusif line is going, and more will be added. The big marketing push of Boy was a nonstarter.

 

[shadesofbleu]

I love Shalimar now, but I came to it pretty late. Before I became the perfumista that I am now, I ignored Shalimar as too “old fashioned.” Boy, was I wrong! I’ve always loved sweet spicy scents, so Shalimar actually should have been a no-brainer for me. Better late than never ... so they say and in my case, true.

I have a vintage bottle of Shalimar parfum and a mini of modern EDP. Of course, the parfum blows the EDP away. It’s so much richer and smokier than the modern EDP and the opoponox note is more prominent, which I like. It feels very luxurious and like Ebanas said, dressed up. Shalimar is so very classic and definitely belongs on a top 100 list!