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Quality at perfume price points? Difference of $20, $200 and $500 perfume?

kreteknose

Active member
Apr 2, 2023
554
213
I've been reading the old threads here and reviews on both mainstream and niche fragrances, and I'd like to understand debates about price and quality more.

Is it a constructive way of framing the question to simply ask about price tiers? What distinguishes the quality of a $20, a $200 and a $500 fragrance?

My understanding is that for $20, you can't expect a lot although there are good cheap perfumes. You might get a one dimensional, one note perfume or one that has no longevity or projection even if it smells nice. You might get a decades old classic formula sold in drugstores with no marketing. Or you might get a harsh, chemical mess, the stereotypical "cheap cologne" smell.

$200 is a more typical designer price point and you expect quality in the $100-200 range. A coherent idea, quality ingredients, a lot of R&D, and in the case of mass market mainstream designer fragrances, a gigantic global marketing campaign. There are a lot of tried and tested and easily likeable bottles in this range that are classics or modern classics, thoroughly tested over many man hours of testing and focus groups and thousands of bottles sold. It's easy to dismiss the perfumes front and center in department store displays and on billboards, but they put a lot of thought to producing perfumes that appeal to a wide range of people and can spread research and marketing costs over a lot more bottles.

$500 (or let's call it $300-$500) is far more subjective and gives rise to the most interesting debates on this forum. Brands here claim to have better quality or all natural ingredients. Not sure what that necessarily means for modern perfumes, but Roja SAs claim the perfume has real ambergris in it, etc., etc. (But generally all perfumes have certain synthetic or processed ingredients.) Maybe you also have more niche formulations that are necessarily in smaller batches because they appeal to smaller market segments. On a related note, you may get actual or artificial scarcity with smaller batches and limited distributions. And you definitely get a lot, lot, lot of marketing, from Xerjoff putting pieces of meteorites in boxes of their Shooting Star line to the entire Creed story about serving kings.

My understand is that ingredients and formulation are a tiny percentage of the price of a bottle, so don't get carried away trying to correlate price and perceived quality. Past a certain threshold (maybe $100-$200), the increase in quality from any increase in price is increasingly marginal and subjective. So if you find something you like and you've tested it enough to consider factors that are less obvious at first such as longevity, be happy to own it. You should not get carried away by distinctions between mass market mainstream perfumes and niche brands, and should understand why you might like a niche brand more such as a specific perfume having a specific note or twist not found in another.

Is this a fair summary of the price and quality debate, and what are good references to read further on?

Is an article like this fairly accurate? https://splashofscent.com/perfume-expensive/
 

kreteknose

Active member
Apr 2, 2023
554
213
how to understand how to gauge if expensive brands are worth paying for, which has some subjectivity.
 

Sandy

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2005
3,213
332
how to understand how to gauge if expensive brands are worth paying for, which has some subjectivity.
I don't think a brand as a whole would be worth to pay for their scents. I haven't found any, and I've been in the "business" 30+ years.
 

FlexMentallo

Active member
Dec 20, 2022
67
106
Are the natural brands that use oud, saffron, ambergris, natural musks etc charging a fair price for the materials used or are they up-charging to the same degree/margin that we see with the less expensive fragrances.
 

kreteknose

Active member
Apr 2, 2023
554
213
I don't think a brand as a whole would be worth to pay for their scents. I haven't found any, and I've been in the "business" 30+ years.
Specific scents? I'm not in the business and want to be educated out of curiosity.
 

kreteknose

Active member
Apr 2, 2023
554
213
Are the natural brands that use oud, saffron, ambergris, natural musks etc charging a fair price for the materials used or are they up-charging to the same degree/margin that we see with the less expensive fragrances.
Natural musk can no longer be used right?
 

FlexMentallo

Active member
Dec 20, 2022
67
106
Natural musk can no longer be used right?
Most producers use synthetics but a few (the natural frag houses I am thinking of) still use actual deer musk and other animalics - either older available materials or from the musk farming operations.
 

emtee

Well-known member
Jun 4, 2018
646
338
Let’s be honest it’s all a huge rip off and we’re mostly paying for brand prestige, packaging and marketing for the most part. It’s the same with all ‘luxury‘ products. What’s important is how it makes you feel. It’s largely emotional. Do you feel good wearing it? Does it feel special? That’s what matters at the end of the day.
 

The Cologne Cabinet

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 22, 2014
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8,452
Let’s be honest it’s all a huge rip off and we’re mostly paying for brand prestige, packaging and marketing for the most part. It’s the same with all ‘luxury‘ products. What’s important is how it makes you feel. It’s largely emotional. Do you feel good wearing it? Does it feel special? That’s what matters at the end of the day.
+1 Some people will pay a premium if they believe it will elevate their social status, and certain brands leverage that fact to the absolute max. Good for them; I still get to choose if I want to play or not.
 

Mick B

Well-known member
Oct 12, 2021
353
577
I think it's especially the designer fragrances that have insane markups in their pricing... They aim at people who want to feel like they own a Dior/Gucci/Givenchi/Armani/YSL/whatever product. For many people, a perfume is the only affordable product of such a brand
 

kreteknose

Active member
Apr 2, 2023
554
213
I think it's especially the designer fragrances that have insane markups in their pricing... They aim at people who want to feel like they own a Dior/Gucci/Givenchi/Armani/YSL/whatever product. For many people, a perfume is the only affordable product of such a brand
so these could have a lower price-to-quality ratio than expensive brands like, just to randomly pick a name, Roja?
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
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Jul 25, 2015
4,168
1,384
Of course, a lot depends on the concentration - extraits can cost a great deal more than their EDT and EDP counterparts, especially where houses like Guerlain, Caron, Chanel, Malle (and many others) are concerned. In terms of current offerings, my collection is pretty evenly divided among the price categories you mention, and I don't notice much difference between the second and third tiers in terms of beauty or performance. Some of the lowest-range fragrances are not bad at all. I don't hesitate to spend above the third-tier range for certain vintage perfumes, however, which in my view really are superior by almost any metric to current productions, largely due to regulations that hamper today's perfumers. So...first tier fragrances represent low-risk gambles (with some very nice surprises), since expectations within that category aren't high; second and third tier fragrances are not separated by much, in my view. I am not familiar with many niche brands, so I can't speak to that sector. I think your categorizations represent a reasonable approach to the price:quality equation, though marketing and hype are huge players.
 

Monsieur Montana

New member
Jan 14, 2015
5,322
2,195
I don’t think that price and quality go hand in hand. I have been unexpectedly surprised by the quality of very cheap perfumes and completely disappointed by perfumes I have paid very high prices for. I would say that the only way of finding out what’s worth and what’s not is sampling. Or, on the other hand, blindly trust the opinions of people that have similar taste with you.
 

kreteknose

Active member
Apr 2, 2023
554
213
I just want to answer this acid test:

Would you be justified in spending $500 to buy a bottle of Roja assuming you really like it and you've developed your taste enough that you know you really like it (and probably your partner too)? Or is the price point so unlikely to be justified that you better really, really like it and are sure there is nothing comparable elsewhere that you also like?

Or, because a $500 bottle will last you a long time, should you just buy it if you really like it because even if the markup is insane, the extra time dwelling on it won't be worth the $200-300? (This thinking doesn't apply if you're going to be collecting.)
 

ultravisitor

Well-known member
Nov 4, 2014
4,730
7,377
There is zero objective way to answer your question. Whether or not a perfume is "worth it" is entirely subjective and depends on a number of factors which can be different depending on the situation.

I mean, I scoff at a lot of prices out there, especially those for Rojas perfumes, but at the same time, I've also spent nearly $800 on a 15ml bottle of Henry Jacques. It's not always just about the perfume itself.
 

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