Parfums de Marly 2021 Reformulation - Carlisle

[FragFrog]

Wow, that's a real bummer.
I had 2017 bottles of Carlisle and also still have 2019 ones which have a real strong performance, 15 hours easily.

I don't know what PDM is thinking if they butchered it that way.
It makes me really sad.
I've always recommended the better PDM fragrances as they were really good.
Good quality and mass apeal.

 

[ethera]

@FragFrog indeed, I thought something is wrong with my bottle. I went to the official retailer ( in Germany ) and told them about the issue and also tested their tester ( 2021 version ) against mine as well. I mean, it has got so weak that the creed samples outperformed Carlisle. They told me that it might be reformulated but they weren't sure. When I told them about concentration drop, they told me that definitely can affect the overall composition. Creed's Royal Oud and Bois du Portugal both outperformed Carlisle.

You can not easily overspray it. I think this had become the industry norm.

 

[legioner]

PDM began to lose quality, I can see it too, for example Kalan 2020 will be simpler than the first releases (2019), which are very strong. Layton (2019) is weaker than the first releases.
Who wants to buy Carlisle, I advise you to look for good batches, for example, I have a very strong Carlisle (930901). I think there is a tendency towards simplification in the new releases of the brand, the same Greenley shows weak characteristics (so he refrained from buying).
I also recommended buying PDMs as they have always been of good quality, but now I'm not sure about that.

 

[FragFrog]

Layton (2019) is weaker than the first releases.

There were still some good batches in 2019 but also some weak ones.
I've tried a lot to find the better ones.
Back in 2017 you could have bought any of them and they were all great.

It's just sad.

 

[legioner]

There were still some good batches in 2019 but also some weak ones.

I had Layton batch 947805 - a very quiet scent.
I think you need to buy fragrances in the year of their release, if possible, after a while they can change in the bad direction.
Fans of PDM should look for earlier releases of their products or buy Exclusif versions, which, according to the brand's representatives, are not EDP but perfume.

 

[ethera]

I had Layton batch 947805 - a very quiet scent.
I think you need to buy fragrances in the year of their release, if possible, after a while they can change in the bad direction.
Fans of PDM should look for earlier releases of their products or buy Exclusif versions, which, according to the brand's representatives, are not EDP but perfume.

I have emailed them and asked them about that. The exclusifes are not parfumes, they are just edp of at least 18%. Its just a typo on the website.

 

[FragFrog]

I think you need to buy fragrances in the year of their release, if possible

That's never a bad idea!

Have you already seen this thread? https://basenotes.com/threads/parfums-de-marly-layton-longevity-issues.469262/
Lots of information, I've posted quite a bit there, too.

My 2020 Layton Exclusif has an ok performance, you'll get over 8 hours and more as a skin scent.
But it's not as deep and powerful than the first bottles I had after the release.
However I'm happy with it as it smells good and is probably still the "old" concentration/formulation - if they butchered that one too in 2021.

 

[hednic]

I think you need to buy fragrances in the year of their release

This is what I have always chosen to do.

 

[legioner]

I have emailed them and asked them about that. The exclusifes are not parfumes, they are just edp of at least 18%. Its just a typo on the website.

I also wrote to them by email and this is what they answered

"Dear customer,
Thank you for your email. We appreciate your interest in Parfums de Marly.
Most of our perfumes are eau de parfum except the Exclusifs (Pegasus Exclusif, Layton Exclusif, Delina Exclusif) which are perfumes.
We remain at your disposal for any further questions.
Best Regards,"

 

[legioner]

My 2020 Layton Exclusif has an ok performance, you'll get over 8 hours and more as a skin scent.
But it's not as deep and powerful than the first bottles I had after the release.
However I'm happy with it as it smells good and is probably still the "old" concentration/formulation - if they butchered that one too in 2021.

I like the Exclusif version more than the Layton, (but I don't have a bottle, I had a sampl) and if I needed Layton, I would buy the exclusif version for me, it is more interesting.

 

[legioner]

This is what I have always chosen to do.

You are very experienced

 

[gabone]

That's never a bad idea!

Have you already seen this thread? https://basenotes.com/threads/parfums-de-marly-layton-longevity-issues.469262/
Lots of information, I've posted quite a bit there, too.

My 2020 Layton Exclusif has an ok performance, you'll get over 8 hours and more as a skin scent.
But it's not as deep and powerful than the first bottles I had after the release.
However I'm happy with it as it smells good and is probably still the "old" concentration/formulation - if they butchered that one too in 2021.

They butchered Layton Exclusif too from what I’ve heard. I haven’t tested it, but people are saying that it is very watered down in terms of smell and performance after the lowered concentration. Apparently, this happened with all their fragrances in 2021 because of that banned ingredient. Also, Oajan is said to be a shadow of its former self, which was also a beast like Carlisle. I tested a 2020 bottle of Oajan and it was very very strong. But now…
I am actually very sad because I really loved this house.

 

[FragFrog]

if I needed Layton, I would buy the exclusif version for me

I like the regular Layton and Layton Exclusif and have both.
If I had to choose only one I would pick the regular Layton - and I'm pretty sure that most people would like the OG better than Exclusif.
But as a fragrance enthusiast I understand why you prefer the Exclusif.

They butchered Layton Exclusif too from what I’ve heard.

Layton Exclusif was a gamble of luck since 2018.
I tried so many batches because I wanted to get another one which smells as one of the very first batches with that deep, complex, almost chocolatey base. Never found that again.

There were some 2018 ones which had a weird smell like burnt plastic and sanitary napkin.

The 2019 ones I've tried were very weak and smelled more like the regular Layton, they just lacked character.

I finally gave Layton Exclusif another chance when they released the 125 ml bottles in 2020 and had luck with one batch, which smells really nice - though it's not that "deep" as the first ones. But it's a good one with good longevity and projection. Bought a backup bottle of that batch because I doubted that I would find anything better than that.

 

[legioner]

But as a fragrance enthusiast I understand why you prefer the Exclusif.

I also understand it

but Layton is one of the two at PDM that I don't like so much)

 

[ethera]

@legioner You are right, it is now Perfum Concentration. It was previously an EDP. Most of websites are still selling the EDP version. Probably I did not asked them correctly. Thank you for pointing it out. I will give it a try.

 

[ethera]

@FragFrog Is your Exclusif version the Perfum concentration?

 

[legioner]

@legioner You are right, it is now Perfum Concentration. It was previously an EDP. Most of websites are still selling the EDP version. Probably I did not asked them correctly. Thank you for pointing it out. I will give it a try.

Nothing to thank me for
I asked them about old editions (for example, Shagya, Lippizan etc) on the packages of which there was an EAU DE TOILETTE, I thought maybe PDM made perfume for the toilet version, the answer was that all their products are EDT except Exclusif

 

[Larry Hoover]

The lesson we keep learning here is: if you really like a fragrance, buy a bottle immediately upon release. If you love it, buy a back up.

Sad, but it is what it is nowadays. Companies will reformulate sooner than later and if you decide to wait you may end up getting something weaker. I'm not saying this counts for every brand out there, but it unfortunately does seem to happen more often now.

 

[santeripe]

I also got Layton last week. It is just a different fragrance. It has Ok performance but the smell is so synthetic now. I can’t believe they destroyed it with this lower concentration. It has 82% Vol. of alcohol now and it smells worse and cheaper. This is not a juice maceration problem, this is just a very big reformulation. Spent over €400 on both Carlisle and Layton this December and I am strongly disappointed that one has no performance and the other one is like a different fragrance than it used to be.

I was also in the same situation and made a thread back in November, when the reformulated batches first hit the market:

https://basenotes.com/threads/pdm-layton-reformulation.521280/

I haven't tried Carlisle. But at least Layton got turned into a synthetic designer sledgehammer like YSL Y EDP or Sauvage EDT. Performance being great with 15% concentration says a lot. It's now loaded with scratchy woody aromachemicals that drill my brain through my sinuses for +6 hours. The juice must cost them pennies to make.

I sent my bottle back for a full refund on the grounds of an unannounced reformulation. Changing the formula was justified because it had a banned allergen. But they got greedy and trimmed off the naturals from customers who are paying more than ever. The natural formulation was cheaper at launch than the synthetic one is right now. I used to be excited about PdM and what they stood for. Not anymore. Never buying from them again.

 

[legioner]

The lesson we keep learning here is: if you really like a fragrance, buy a bottle immediately upon release. If you love it, buy a back up.

Sad, but it is what it is nowadays. Companies will reformulate sooner than later and if you decide to wait you may end up getting something weaker. I'm not saying this counts for every brand out there, but it unfortunately does seem to happen more often now.

this is true, BUT it so happens that when you first meet a new fragrance, you may not like it, but after a while you really like it and it is already difficult to get the first release, and then you have to look for the right batches of this fragrance.