Old School Aromatic Fougere Jules

[PaTomas]

Hi everyone! To my mind, these fragrances in vintage versions would be classic 70's and 80's aromatic fougeres:
Hermès' Equipage,
Azzaro Pour Homme,
Paco Rabanne Pour Homme,
Caron’s Yatagan and Le Troisièmme Homme...
... to name a few

I am keenly interested in:

1. Is current Dior Jules worth the purchase, preserves great old school vibe? It seems to have reputation of a very well done reformulation. Good, or no?

2. Is there another current formulation fragrance that preserves the 70's 80's aromatic fougere vibe of those above without being weak, squeaky, and cheap, frankly? Perhaps even Amouage, Montale, Histoire de Parfums, other houses?
Thanks

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Owning the original formulation Dior Jules, it is the real deal. A classic scent that parallels other classics like Antaeus, Bel Ami, Givenchy Gentleman, and Derby.

 

[Varanis Ridari]

Hi everyone! To my mind, these fragrances in vintage versions would be classic 70's and 80's aromatic fougeres:
Hermès' Equipage,
Azzaro Pour Homme,
Paco Rabanne Pour Homme,
Caron’s Yatagan and Le Troisièmme Homme...
... to name a few

I am keenly interested in:

1. Is current Dior Jules worth the purchase, preserves great old school vibe? It seems to have reputation of a very well done reformulation. Good, or no?

2. Is there another current formulation fragrance that preserves the 70's 80's aromatic fougere vibe of those above without being weak, squeaky, and cheap, frankly? Perhaps even Amouage, Montale, Histoire de Parfums, other houses?
Thanks

Probably a few Amouages you'd like are Epic Man and Bracken Man.

Montale is mostly Middle Eastern vibe, so probably not there

Not a whole lot in the designer space that will smell like Jules today, but some Indie perfumers yeah. Rogue, Darren Alan, Clandestine Laboratories, they have some things.

 

[otterlake]

Is there another current formulation fragrance that preserves the 70's 80's aromatic fougere vibe of those above without being weak, squeaky, and cheap, frankly?

Arquiste El is worth a look.

And as VR mentioned, some of the artisanal houses are doing good things in this space.

 

[Bavard]

Because you're wanting something from the current market, Jules is likely a good option for you. It smells like vintage Jules in the base.

For older stuff, Charles Jourdan Un Homme and Aramis Tuscany could be good options, based on your list. If Tuscany is still current, then there's a good, current option. The current version of Tuscany I smelled in a shop three or four years ago smelled like the older stuff I've tried.

Update: Tuscany is still current, apparently, based on a quick shopping search.

 

[PaTomas]

Owning the original formulation Dior Jules, it is the real deal. A classic scent that parallels other classics like Antaeus, Bel Ami, Givenchy Gentleman, and Derby.

Yes, Jules Vintage superb! I was wondering if the reformulated Jules lived up to the original alongside these other classics... thanks!

 

[PaTomas]

Arquiste El is worth a look.

And as VR mentioned, some of the artisanal houses are doing good things in this space.

I checked out Él and it looks amazing! That whole house seems great, if a bit pricey... If we were 1980 it would definitely sit beside the classic greats. Thanks

 

[PaTomas]

Because you're wanting something from the current market, Jules is likely a good option for you. It smells like vintage Jules in the base.

For older stuff, Charles Jourdan Un Homme and Aramis Tuscany could be good options, based on your list. If Tuscany is still current, then there's a good, current option. The current version of Tuscany I smelled in a shop three or four years ago smelled like the older stuff I've tried.

Update: Tuscany is still current, apparently, based on a quick shopping search.

Thanks much for this! Tuscany sounds so good. Word is current one weak, as reforming seems to do. I wonder why reformulators never seem to make it stronger rather than weaker? Is there some marketing scheme about offering weaker and weaker stuff? Hard to figure.

 

[nosey74]

Yes, Jules Vintage superb! I was wondering if the reformulated Jules lived up to the original alongside these other classics... thanks!

Yes I think current Jules is a good reformulation. I also think current Guerlain Heritage is good and so is current Hermes Bel Ami and current Chanel Antaeus. I also like current Bogart Signature.

 

[otterlake]

Thanks much for this! Tuscany sounds so good. Word is current one weak, as reforming seems to do. I wonder why reformulators never seem to make it stronger rather than weaker? Is there some marketing scheme about offering weaker and weaker stuff? Hard to figure.

The original Tuscany isn't very loud, either (I have a vintage bottle). Both it and the current stuff perform similarly.

 

[hednic]

Is current Dior Jules worth the purchase, preserves great old school vibe?

Absolutely.

 

[Ken_Russell]

While still undecided and also with too little experience on 1), seconding for question 2) especially Amouage Bracken and Aramis Tuscany.

But also not fully excluding from a (re) testing list-even if not all of the following were originally released in the 70s or 80s but rather resemble this particular style in spirit-among more possible recommendations especially: Lomani PH, Duc de Vervins, Coty Preferred Stock, Open by Roger Gallet, even certain aspects of Lalique PH in its EDP concentration, Floris Elite as well.

Without having to necessarily go for the vintage version in the case of either, since their current formulations do manage to upkeep a certain classic fougere style.

 

[Varanis Ridari]

Thanks much for this! Tuscany sounds so good. Word is current one weak, as reforming seems to do. I wonder why reformulators never seem to make it stronger rather than weaker? Is there some marketing scheme about offering weaker and weaker stuff? Hard to figure.

Don't believe all the depressing gatekeepery nihilism you hear. Everything was always better than it is now and there's no point to anything new if you do, and that's a bummer.

Yes, a lot of reforms do suck, there's no denying. Some are quite acceptable though, and some are even improvements in some areas to previous reformulations before them.

In the case of Tuscany, the OG was never loud or super mossy, always more about landanum than oakmoss. It's almost chypre/fougère 50/50.

Newest bottles pluck out the oakmoss, and that dings the fullness a bit, so are they objectively worse? Of course. How much worse? A very negligible amount.

If you A to B smell vintage/current you'll spot it, but worn independently (like one day for A, the next day for B), you'll soon barely tell.

 

[Bangkok Hound]

Because you're wanting something from the current market, Jules is likely a good option for you. It smells like vintage Jules in the base.

Yes I think current Jules is a good reformulation.

I completely agree. Especially when considering pricing, I'd choose current Jules anyday.

 

[PaTomas]

Don't believe all the depressing gatekeepery nihilism you hear. Everything was always better than it is now and there's no point to anything new if you do, and that's a bummer.

Yes, a lot of reforms do suck, there's no denying. Some are quite acceptable though, and some are even improvements in some areas to previous reformulations before them.

In the case of Tuscany, the OG was never loud or super mossy, always more about landanum than oakmoss. It's almost chypre/fougère 50/50.

Newest bottles pluck out the oakmoss, and that dings the fullness a bit, so are they objectively worse? Of course. How much worse? A very negligible amount.

If you A to B smell vintage/current you'll spot it, but worn independently (like one day for A, the next day for B), you'll soon barely tell.

This is a very good perspective to keep. I'm just bummed when I remember original Aramis in '85 I had. It was probably the oakmoss that was eventually banned that muffed it now. I bought Calvin by Calvin in the same year that disappeared.

Antaeus comes to mind as one I never knew vintage. I bought a fresh clean one last year and its fabulous. The former may have been too heavy for my taste.

 

[PaTomas]

Thanks to all. Some very worthwhile feedback here. I will be sampling some,Él, Bracken.

I love the House of Floris and never had Elite which I will sample. Excited about that and they have Vert Fougere I'd love to get my hands on.

Above all, thanks for the acclaim for current Jules that I will purchase, as well as Aramis Tuscany!

While still undecided and also with too little experience on 1), seconding for question 2) especially Amouage Bracken and Aramis Tuscany.

But also not fully excluding from a (re) testing list-even if not all of the following were originally released in the 70s or 80s but rather resemble this particular style in spirit-among more possible recommendations especially: Lomani PH, Duc de Vervins, Coty Preferred Stock, Open by Roger Gallet, even certain aspects of Lalique PH in its EDP concentration, Floris Elite as well.

Without having to necessarily go for the vintage version in the case of either, since their current formulations do manage to upkeep a certain classic fougere style.

I certainly need some digging as I have not experienced Lomani PH, Duc de Vervins, Coty Preferred Stock, or Open by Roger Gallet.

Lalique pour Homme intrigues me, and I see there is a Lion, edt and edp, as well as Equus.

 

[Varanis Ridari]

This is a very good perspective to keep. I'm just bummed when I remember original Aramis in '85 I had. It was probably the oakmoss that was eventually banned that muffed it now. I bought Calvin by Calvin in the same year that disappeared.

Antaeus comes to mind as one I never knew vintage. I bought a fresh clean one last year and its fabulous. The former may have been too heavy for my taste.

Oh yeah that original Aramis was a nuclear bomb of aldehydes too, still is, just smaller mushroom cloud haha

 

[PaTomas]

Oh yeah that original Aramis was a nuclear bomb of aldehydes too, still is, just smaller mushroom cloud haha

Something in the original Aramis kept it together, smooth and splendid. Now its something so sour I can't wear the present formulation.

 

[sunnymitra]

Hi everyone! To my mind, these fragrances in vintage versions would be classic 70's and 80's aromatic fougeres:
Hermès' Equipage,
Azzaro Pour Homme,
Paco Rabanne Pour Homme,
Caron’s Yatagan and Le Troisièmme Homme...
... to name a few

I am keenly interested in:

1. Is current Dior Jules worth the purchase, preserves great old school vibe? It seems to have reputation of a very well done reformulation. Good, or no?

2. Is there another current formulation fragrance that preserves the 70's 80's aromatic fougere vibe of those above without being weak, squeaky, and cheap, frankly? Perhaps even Amouage, Montale, Histoire de Parfums, other houses?
Thanks

In response to your 2 main questions, I would have to say a firm no to the first. There's no denying that Dior's reformulation of Jules captures the intensely green and aromatic vibe of the original, and if you can get it cheap (I've bought 100ml testers in France for around 35-40 Euros, which I ended up selling, as I found the reformulation so underwhelming next to the original) I'd say go for it. Unfortunately, the reformulation lacks the potency, longevity, projection and animalic sensuality of the 1980 original and will last for less than half the time on skin.

Secondly, I think the current formulation of Worth Pour Homme (from 1932, but a classic barbershop / green masculine fragrance nevertheless) holds up well to vintage versions I have tried from the 1970s and 1980s. The Haute Concentration version, now discontinued, can be found fairly cheap online from time to time.