Nine-Line 1990s Freshie

[mnitabach]

Just spontaneously reeled off this nine-line freshie & it's performing really well. It's not subtle & it's not clever, but it is powerful diffusive & appealing, and has a certain cartoonish elegance thru the progression. It's very 1990s!

DHM 100
coranol 200
amber core 415
ethylene brassylate 150
florol 50
karanal 5
ambrofix 25
evernyl 5
lyral 50

I suspect another lowish impact woody amber type molecule could be subbed for amber core, such as boisambrene forte or boisiris. I think cedramber might be too strong? Norlimbanol could be substituted for the karanal, albeit probably at 1/2 or 2/3 the dose.

 

[Deleted member 26355247]

Deleted

 

[Big L]

Nice, I haven't tried it yet, as I am missing some ingredients at the moment 😶. Just reading it, I like the balance and can imagine the 90's vibe with the High DHM, Amber, Evernyl, Lyral combo. You can probably cut it with 20% Iso E Super and only make it more "correct".

 

[mnitabach]

Nice ideas on varying the ambercore amber core & ionone. Someone elsewhere also recommended trying cedramber as a core component.

 

[Big L]

I can definitely see that as well, first time I sampled cedramber I had 90s flashbacks.

 

[mnitabach]

I can definitely see that as well, first time I sampled cedramber I had 90s flashbacks.

My first variant will be cedramber for ambercore, 1:1 substitution (go big or go home)!

 

[Big L]

I like the idea of replacing it entirely for comparison, although I feel it might be too high for cedramber. Looking forward to reading how it went.

 

[Yuri-G]

Thanks. I'll try this! Though I will have to sub a couple of the materials.

Any suggested subs for coranol? How does it differ to plain old linalool?

 

[mnitabach]

Thanks. I'll try this! Though I will have to sub a couple of the materials.

Any suggested subs for coranol? How does it differ to plain old linalool?

Coranol is much more complex than linalool, and substantially more tenacious. Perhaps if you have something like sclareolate? You're looking for a fresh, herbal, floral, slight citrus complex. If you were going to use linalool, I would instead use a mix of linalool & linalyl acetate, perhaps at 1:1 (such as is roughly the ratio in many lavender materials).

 

[Deleted member 26355247]

Nice ideas on varying the ambercore amber core & ionone. Someone elsewhere also recommended trying cedramber as a core component.

Deleted

 

[mnitabach]

Agree with that, Cedramber is a very nice bridge between amber and floral. It smalls great just from the bottle.
The Hekserij.nl says this about Cedramber: 'Typical use is in woody, leather and amber accords, but in smaller amounts it goes well with flowers, fruits and many other scents.' They also mention a sort of spectrum: 'Cedroxide is drier than cedramber and more ambery than norlimbanol: these three give the perfumer a nice choice in balance between dry woods and sweet amber in a cedar/amber accord.'

Yes! Those are three very complementary woody ambery molecules. And they provide an evaporation sequence too, with cedramber most volatile, then cedroxyde, then norlimbanol. Incidentally, karanal has quite similar organoleptic properties to norlimbanol in blends (used at about twice the dose one would use norlimbanol), BUT it is substantially more tenacious.

 

[mnitabach]

Just substituted cedramber for ambercore 1:1 & sprayed on skin. Unlike ambercore, cedramber is not working super well at this dose: it is suppressing the freshie top notes to some extent and is overly ambery to just barely past the point of roughness. For instructive purposes, I will also try 1:1 substitution of boisambrene forte & boisiris.

 

[Yuri-G]

Coranol is much more complex than linalool, and substantially more tenacious. Perhaps if you have something like sclareolate? You're looking for a fresh, herbal, floral, slight citrus complex. If you were going to use linalool, I would instead use a mix of linalool & linalyl acetate, perhaps at 1:1 (such as is roughly the ratio in many lavender materials).

Thanks. I made up my own version, where I used equal quantities of linalool, linalyl acetate and sclareolate to replace the coranol. I also used ambermax instead of karanal, at 0.2% as I wasn't sure how it compares. I would say this is enough ambermax for my taste.

It might need to macerate for a bit, but initial impressions are really great! Definite 90's freshie vibes. I feel like it would also be a good base to add a twist to with touches of naturals like lavender absolute and/or germanium. I also thought a rose base might work, cassis base, cucumber aldehyde, an orris accord, a fig accord, raspberry ketone, kephalis, clearwood... you could take it in any number of directions.

I wouldn't mind a little more soapiness in the drydown. Some habanolide and/or galaxolide. I also like ethylene brassylate and tonalid in a 10:1 ratio.

 

[mnitabach]

Thanks. I made up my own version, where I used equal quantities of linalool, linalyl acetate and sclareolate to replace the coranol. I also used ambermax instead of karanal, at 0.2% as I wasn't sure how it compares. I would say this is enough ambermax for my taste.

It might need to macerate for a bit, but initial impressions are really great! Definite 90's freshie vibes. I feel like it would also be a good base to add a twist to with touches of naturals like lavender absolute and/or germanium. I also thought a rose base might work, cassis base, cucumber aldehyde, an orris accord, a fig accord, raspberry ketone, kephalis, clearwood... you could take it in any number of directions.

I wouldn't mind a little more soapiness in the drydown. Some habanolide and/or galaxolide. I also like ethylene brassylate and tonalid in a 10:1 ratio.

Very cool! I think to make this a real fragrance, the musks do need some work. In particular, I think it needs something a little bit more volatile & stronger than e.b. to smooth out the top & heart & early base a bit more. I'm thinking some habanolide or romandolide?

 

[mnitabach]

Reporting back on another variant I've tested, which is to substitute Firmenich Clearwood (a biotech patchoulol material) 1:1 for the ambercore. Like the cedramber substitution discussed above, this was also very interesting and, incidentally, more successful. The clearwood conferred an elegant shimmering woodiness to the top & heart of this fragrance, but definitely subdued the top & heart (DHM + coranol + florol, for the most part) substantially more than the ambercore. Since to my mind the appeal of this fragrance, cartoonish tho it is, lies in being vigorously slapped in the face with citrus herbal floral freshness, prefer the ambercore version.

Of course, if one were interested in fine-tuning this fragrance (I don't think I am, at least not yet...), combining ambercore & clearwood would be an obvious thing to test, to try to "'split the middle". In that regard, I did actually just today test out a fully synthetic fougère sketch, using a roughly equal combination of clearwood & ambercore as the structural foundation (at about 25% of formula total for the two), and that was really really successful. This combination seemed to exalt both the top & heart notes (kept the amyl salicylate effect vivid for about four hours on skin) AND seemed to exalt the elegant woody-camphory patchouli effect in the longer drydown. I'm learning that ambercore is really interesting & deceptively powerful shit! 😹 😹 😹

 

[mnitabach]

OK I've got a new variant, adding five materials at the suggestion of someone on facebook: PTBCH (patchouli hexanol), sandalore, hydroxycitronellal, PEA, oranger crystals. OF COURSE, I should've tested one at a time to assess respective effects, but whatever.



I don't have sandal hexanol (the suggested santal), so used sandalore (mainly bcs it's the only santal molecule I have a good experience with dosing properly). PEAHM at 1:10 seems good, and I can definitely understand what was meant by the suggester about it forming a true top accord.

The sandalore definitely smooths things out & contributes a santal facet even at the very top. It is overall definitely shifted from the citrus/herbal towards the floral (not surprising since added three floral materials) but still is very invigorating & FRESH.

Of course, I should have tried each addition on its own to really understand respective effects, but whatevs this is working quite nicely. And I'm not sure I can tell what the patchouli hexanol is doing...

And holy shit!!! My whole house smells like gorgeous santal incense now!!! 😹 😹 😹 Maybe this has something to do with an accord of the santal material with PTBCH (and maybe oranger crystals)???

 

[Jolieo]

What is ptbch?

 

[Casper_grassy]

What is ptbch?

http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1013261.html

 

[mixmastermattyp]

Just spontaneously reeled off this nine-line freshie & it's performing really well. It's not subtle & it's not clever, but it is powerful diffusive & appealing, and has a certain cartoonish elegance thru the progression. It's very 1990s!

DHM 100
coranol 200
amber core 415
ethylene brassylate 150
florol 50
karanal 5
ambrofix 25
evernyl 5
lyral 50

I suspect another lowish impact woody amber type molecule could be subbed for amber core, such as boisambrene forte or boisiris. I think cedramber might be too strong? Norlimbanol could be substituted for the karanal, albeit probably at 1/2 or 2/3 the dose.

I bought coranol months ago, used it once, and never again until now. I didn’t think I liked it, but I used it in your formula here. I immediately made the association after spraying, and I like it! Neat how that works. I might start using it more often. Thanks!
Curious how this dry down will go…
I like the amber. And, again, it strikes an association with the lily chemicals. Very accurate. The ratio was meticulously honed — it’s obvious.

 

[mixmastermattyp]

I bought coranol months ago, used it once, and never again until now. I didn’t think I liked it, but I used it in your formula here. I immediately made the association after spraying, and I like it! Neat how that works. I might start using it more often. Thanks!
Curious how this dry down will go…
I like the amber. And, again, it strikes an association with the lily chemicals. Very accurate. The ratio was meticulously honed — it’s obvious.

I would have never guessed to use so much ambercore despite how much I love it! I would use it at ten, maybe twenty, but never would I have used it at 40% in a formula.