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Nice formula to play with

polysom

Active member
Apr 4, 2021
721
202
I just wanted to play a bit with Violet Leaf Absolute, so I made a quick perfume which turned out to be nice and interesting. Afterwards I found out this is a nice starting point for experiments. I started with the following formula:

3.7 Black Pepper Essence
10 Bergamote EO
0.5 Caryophyllene
0.9 Violet Leaf Absolute
4 Sclarene
0.2 Violettyne
0.1 cis-Jasmone
0.5 Mayol
5 Dartanol
1.4 SantalIff
4 Patchouli Essence MD
10 Iso E Super
3 Traseolide
1 Ambrox DL
9 Vertenex HC
0.4 Methyl Laitone
18.3 Clearwood
5 Vetiverol Extra
1.3 Symroxane
5 Fixobois 66606
0.2 Veramoss
2 Ethyl linalool
3 Terpinyl acetate
1.2 Healingwood
1 Lyral
0.3 Myrrh Resinoide Absolute

It starts with a very nice citrusy green top. And in the dry down you have patchouli with the myrrh and some nice freshness. The myrrh is quite essential, because it makes it more interesting. But it's very strong. I need to say I didn't love it, but I also don't hate it. But it was just meant as a draft to test the Violet Leaf.
A colleague of mine told be, he likes it very much, but he would love it more if it would be more masculine with a marine top note. So I removed the mayol and added some tiny amounts of floralazone, C12 MNA and scentenal instead. Then I Increased the healingwood a bit and added clary sage Abs. My colleague loved the result very much.
Another person told me, he also likes my basic formula, but he would love it if it would be a bit more sporty. So I've also removed the mayol and added a bit of cascalone DHM and Birch leaf Give instead. The result had a nice sporty top, but the dry down was very soapy. It was back to the drawing board for this.
Today I thought I give it another go. So I removed the mayol, the methyl laitone, the ambroxan and added some pino acetaldehyde, plicatone, maritima, scentenal and ambrette seed abs instead. And lowered the sclarene amount. I'm curious how this turns out, but I will let mature it for a week now.

This basic formula turned out to be a lot of fun and a nice playing ground. I never blended with marine or ozonic materials before. After this test blends I see how they can be useful. And it's quite interesting how you only change just a little bit of a formula to give the perfume a complete other direction. Feel free to also play with it, if you like.
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
13,531
2,342
Is your Violet Leaf diluted?
If pure, this sounds like a lot...
 

polysom

Active member
Apr 4, 2021
721
202
Yes, it's a lot Violet Leaf, but it's nice in this blend. The other materials are also very strong. I have tested different concentrations and this was the nicest.
 

ScentAle

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2021
910
461
Sclarene: the smell of hot vapor iron when in old time mum were in ironing board. Seems medium strong instead it is very strong and perceivable in every blend i make
 

Smoneedavis44

New member
May 22, 2023
2
0
I just wanted to play a bit with Violet Leaf Absolute, so I made a quick perfume which turned out to be nice and interesting. Afterwards I found out this is a nice starting point for experiments. I started with the following formula:

3.7 Black Pepper Essence
10 Bergamote EO
0.5 Caryophyllene
0.9 Violet Leaf Absolute
4 Sclarene
0.2 Violettyne
0.1 cis-Jasmone
0.5 Mayol
5 Dartanol
1.4 SantalIff
4 Patchouli Essence MD
10 Iso E Super
3 Traseolide
1 Ambrox DL
9 Vertenex HC
0.4 Methyl Laitone
18.3 Clearwood
5 Vetiverol Extra
1.3 Symroxane
5 Fixobois 66606
0.2 Veramoss
2 Ethyl linalool
3 Terpinyl acetate
1.2 Healingwood
1 Lyral
0.3 Myrrh Resinoide Absolute

It starts with a very nice citrusy green top. And in the dry down you have patchouli with the myrrh and some nice freshness. The myrrh is quite essential, because it makes it more interesting. But it's very strong. I need to say I didn't love it, but I also don't hate it. But it was just meant as a draft to test the Violet Leaf.
A colleague of mine told be, he likes it very much, but he would love it more if it would be more masculine with a marine top note. So I removed the mayol and added some tiny amounts of floralazone, C12 MNA and scentenal instead. Then I Increased the healingwood a bit and added clary sage Abs. My colleague loved the result very much.
Another person told me, he also likes my basic formula, but he would love it if it would be a bit more sporty. So I've also removed the mayol and added a bit of cascalone DHM and Birch leaf Give instead. The result had a nice sporty top, but the dry down was very soapy. It was back to the drawing board for this.
Today I thought I give it another go. So I removed the mayol, the methyl laitone, the ambroxan and added some pino acetaldehyde, plicatone, maritima, scentenal and ambrette seed abs instead. And lowered the sclarene amount. I'm curious how this turns out, but I will let mature it for a week now.

This basic formula turned out to be a lot of fun and a nice playing ground. I never blended with marine or ozonic materials before. After this test blends I see how they can be useful. And it's quite interesting how you only change just a little bit of a formula to give the perfume a complete other direction. Feel free to also play with it, if you like.
Hello, I'm new here. Are these measurements in grams? Also what percentage do you mix with perfumers alcohol to make a wearable fragrance?
 

PeeWee678

Well-known member
Jan 7, 2022
442
272
Hello, I'm new here. Are these measurements in grams? Also what percentage do you mix with perfumers alcohol to make a wearable fragrance?
  • You can use grams, grains, kilograms, ounces or any other exotic weight unit you like and multiply or divide the amounts by a factor of your own choice. The result will smell the same no matter the unit (as long as it's a weight unit and not a volume unit).

  • The percentage of alcohol best suited, depends somewhat on the formula but also on what you want.
    If you want an EdP: try 75% alcohol and dilute further down if you think it's too strong.
    If you want an EdT: try 85%, etc.
 

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