New Michael Malul x Gents Scents "Blue Ridge" & "Terra Nova"

[Red Hawk]

Last year the brand Michael Malul collaborated with Ashton Kirkland of the Youtube channel Gents Scents to release a limited edition fragrance "Jet Black Enigma". This year that partnership continues with the release of new fragrances "Blue Ridge" and "Terra Nova", as well as re-releasing Jet Black Enigma as a part of Michael Malul's regular fragrance line.

Blue Ridge:

Top Notes: Citron, Italian Mandarin, Blackcurrant
Mid Notes: Lavandin, Ozonic Accord, Cedar Leaf
Base Notes: Patchouli, Leather Accord, Sandalwood

Perfumer: Fabrice Pellegrin

Terra Nova:

Top Notes: Bergamot, Lemon Leaves, Golden Lotus
Mid Notes: Violet, Sandalwood, Ambrox
Base Notes: Black Amber, Patchouli, Tonka Bean

Perfumer: Hamid Merati-Kashani

Ashton asked his audience what kind of fragrance they would like him to make, and the overwhelming answer was: a blue fragrance. So, that's what Blue Ridge is. The name comes from the mountains of Tennessee where Ashton lives. Terra Nova is sweeter, but also mass appealing. Ashton emphasized that mass appeal, wearability, and versatility was the point with these fragrances. He says up front it's not for someone looking for really artistic and challenging fragrances.

The listed price is $140 each for 100 ml/3.4 oz, but you can get a 20% code for the Michael Malul website so the effective price is $112. A little pricey for me, but definitely more reasonable and affordable than certain other "YouTuber fragrances" (including Ashton's own previous Galleria line). I've been a viewer of Gents Scents for a couple years now, so I'm tempted to pick these up. I'm especially tempted by Blue Ridge in particular; I just love the name because I'm from Virginia so I feel a connection to the Blue Ridge/Appalachian mountain range as well.

Edit: Also, there is a limited run of 15 ml travel sizes for sale on the Michael Malul website for these frags and Jet Black Enigma. Price is $14.95 each, which seems really reasonable. I may just go for those rather than the full sized bottles for now.

 

[Varanis Ridari]

Can't say I'm surprised that a major fragrance YouTuber's audience wants more blue fragrances on top of the other 40,000 blue fragrances already out there.

 

[hednic]

I've tried a few from Michael Malul. This house was not for me. This current collaboration would be a pass for me.

 

[freewheelingvagabond]

Pass

 

[Red Hawk]

Can't say I'm surprised that a major fragrance YouTuber's audience wants more blue fragrances on top of the other 40,000 blue fragrances already out there.

I mean, blue fragrances are popular for a reason. Seems like a smart move for Ashton to make something he knows his audience will scoop up. It's just smart business.

Anyways, went ahead and ordered the 15 ml travel sizes of these fragrances and last year's Jet Black Enigma. Right now they're being sold at a slightly better price per ml than the effective price of the full-size bottles, so really no reason to hold off. Good opportunity to try before buying the full-size bottles.

 

[Varanis Ridari]

I mean, blue fragrances are popular for a reason. Seems like a smart move for Ashton to make something he knows his audience will scoop up. It's just smart business.

Anyways, went ahead and ordered the 15 ml travel sizes of these fragrances and last year's Jet Black Enigma. Right now they're being sold at a slightly better price per ml than the effective price of the full-size bottles, so really no reason to hold off. Good opportunity to try before buying the full-size bottles.

I'm not faulting anyone supply-side (ergo Michael or Ashton) for asking people what they want, and then giving it to them, bear that in mind.

I was clear in my statement that I'm just not surprised at all his audience wants more of the same thing they're already used to, since one of the biggest draws to watching YouTube videos on fragrance isn't to learn anything new, just for confirmation bias.

People like it when folks with bigger social standings than them validate their likes, wants, and opinions. That's why Royal warrants, magazine seals of approval (e.g. Good Housekeeping), and celebrity endorsements all work, plus why influencers like Jeremy Fragrance now exist.

 

[ErroneousFact]

Thanks for the tip on the travel size. I ordered a Blue Ridge, as I often like blues but I don't think I've found a perfect one. Since my tastes seem way out of sync with Ashton's I'll hold back on the others.

 

[L'Homme Blanc Individuel]

Junk.

Please tell me you're not naive enough to honestly believe any of these youtubers are actually hiring perfumers. They're contacting the perfumer's agent, who sends the perfumer an email that says "Want to make some easy money? I've got a clown who wants to buy a formula with a name attached. Give me anything he'll think qualifies as (insert-style-here) and I'll get you a check within a few weeks." The perfumer probably spends less than ten minutes jotting down a list based on something they failed to sell elsewhere, and they probably roll their eyes as they cash the check.

 

[Red Hawk]

Junk.

Please tell me you're not naive enough to honestly believe any of these youtubers are actually hiring perfumers. They're contacting the perfumer's agent, who sends the perfumer an email that says "Want to make some easy money? I've got a clown who wants to buy a formula with a name attached. Give me anything he'll think qualifies as (insert-style-here) and I'll get you a check within a few weeks." The perfumer probably spends less than ten minutes jotting down a list based on something they failed to sell elsewhere, and they probably roll their eyes as they cash the check.

Of course I don't think that Ashton "hired a perfumer", because no one is saying he did. If anything it's more accurate to say the brand Michael Malul hired Ashton as a creative director. This all started a year or so back when Ashton did a somewhat critical review of Michael Malul Jet Black. The brand approached Ashton and offered for him to develop a Jet Black flanker; that ended up being Jet Black Enigma. Apparently that was successful enough that Michael Malul had Ashton develop these two new fragrances. Ashton has talked about the process of creating a brief and going back and forth with submissions from the perfumer working on the fragrance.

If you're going to insist that Michael Malul and Ashton are basically lying about Ashton's involvement, then...idk man, seems a bit hyper skeptical to me. There's no real reason for them to lie about all this .

And about the actual scents themselves, can't say anything as I haven't actually tried them yet.

 

[Redneck Perfumisto]

I stumbled onto Jet Black Enigma in a kiosk, where they tried to bait-and-switch me from the disco celebrity scent I wanted (LOL). But I grabbed a sample just in case, and when I finally tried it, I was impressed. Thought about going back for a bottle. It was a bit Tom Fordish, with hints of both Noir EDP and his old Extreme. Way better than what I expected. I expected Thallium Aqua Blue Sport.

 

[ihxb01]

Junk.

Please tell me you're not naive enough to honestly believe any of these youtubers are actually hiring perfumers. They're contacting the perfumer's agent, who sends the perfumer an email that says "Want to make some easy money? I've got a clown who wants to buy a formula with a name attached. Give me anything he'll think qualifies as (insert-style-here) and I'll get you a check within a few weeks." The perfumer probably spends less than ten minutes jotting down a list based on something they failed to sell elsewhere, and they probably roll their eyes as they cash the check.

I do like how emotionally raw your comment is. But please, hold my beer))

Niche.

Please tell me you're not naive enough to honestly believe any of these niche brands are actually hiring perfumers. They're contacting the perfumer's agent, who sends the perfumer an email that says "Want to make some easy money? I've got a a new niche brand that wants to buy a formula with a name attached. Give me anything they’ll think qualifies as (insert-style-here) and I'll get you a check within a few weeks." The perfumer probably spends less than ten minutes jotting down a list based on something they failed to sell elsewhere, and they probably laughing all the way to a bank to cash the check.

 

[Red Hawk]

I stumbled onto Jet Black Enigma in a kiosk, where they tried to bait-and-switch me from the disco celebrity scent I wanted (LOL). But I grabbed a sample just in case, and when I finally tried it, I was impressed. Thought about going back for a bottle. It was a bit Tom Fordish, with hints of both Noir EDP and his old Extreme. Way better than what I expected. I expected Thallium Aqua Blue Sport.

Yeah, Ashton has been keen to talk about how these are actually sold on store shelves. He claims that Blue Ridge in particular can now be found at over 300 Perfumania and Fragrance Outlet stores across the US. It seems Michael Malul is confident enough in the fragrance to put it out there for people to buy who may not have even heard of the Gents Scents YouTube channel.

 

[Redneck Perfumisto]

I do like how emotionally raw your comment is. But please, hold my beer))

Niche.

Please tell me you're not naive enough to honestly believe any of these niche brands are actually hiring perfumers. They're contacting the perfumer's agent, who sends the perfumer an email that says "Want to make some easy money? I've got a a new niche brand that wants to buy a formula with a name attached. Give me anything they’ll think qualifies as (insert-style-here) and I'll get you a check within a few weeks." The perfumer probably spends less than ten minutes jotting down a list based on something they failed to sell elsewhere, and they probably laughing all the way to a bank to cash the check.

Yeah, Ashton has been keen to talk about how these are actually sold on store shelves. He claims that Blue Ridge in particular can now be found at over 300 Perfumania and Fragrance Outlet stores across the US. It seems Michael Malul is confident enough in the fragrance to put it out there for people to buy who may not have even heard of the Gents Scents YouTube channel.

I'm really getting what's going on here, now. Ashton is basically acting in an industry job, post-internet.

When I got my industry tour back in the day, and met people in a variety of job types, one of the really awesome jobs was the evaluator. They're basically like olfactory defense attorneys for the brief. When a brief comes in from a client, the evaluator interfaces between client and perfumer as a skilled, trained nose who "speaks perfume" but can also represent the client's interest. They're responsible for client satisfaction. They push the perfumers to get it right. In the same way that attorneys interface normies to the realities of the system through a representative voice, evaluators try to get the best and most satisfactory product to the client and beyond that, to the client's customer base, knowing most of the realities of perfumery, in large part by simply being familiar with product possibilities.

The evaluator who I met, loved her job. She started out (long before the internet was a thing) as a very knowledgeable perfume shopper, and basically found her dream job of judging perfume for a living.

This is the same thing that they did with Diddy, most notably with Unforgivable. He counted up the mods he smelled - over 600 - to get the product that he wanted. He likely worked with an evaluator, but he was acting primarily as an evaluator himself, which often happens with a very hands-on client. When the client is a celebrity who is only interested in cashing a check and sniffing a few mods, the industry evaluator does all the heavy lifting. When the client is highly involved, the evaluator may do a lot less, because evaluation has basically shifted directly to the client.

Now @ihxb01 makes a great point. Niche. This is exactly what has happened with these new niche brands led by perfume-savvy cultural representatives, who have a certain taste, and speak perfume for that taste, representing their stylistically devoted cultural bases, often grown on the internet. This includes some pricey new brands, that people associate with a more upscale and international crowd. Ashton is doing that same thing, for a different crowd that is more male, more American, more Midwestern and Southern, and more openly internet-based. In some ways, he's pulling the evaluator and critic functions out of the Andy Tauer Facebook Perfumery model and running that job on YouTube for a different clientele - people who like the Gent Scents channel - while the perfumery is dropped back into the industry for a professional product.

I can really see it in the product. Jet Black Enigma had a lot of the features of pricier brands, but the "note separation" as Bigsly calls it - which one could also call note identifiability - is strong. That's an old-school trait, enjoyed by people who love perfume, but it tends to get polished out of luxe products where je ne sais quoi has more value. This speaks to the development process, IMO. It's a stronger fragrance, for perfume-heads who don't want a shy fragrance, has many of the features more often found in pricier brands, but doesn't really have the mass appeal of an AdG or a BdC. At the same time, it lends itself to conversation, a plus in the clientele.

Kinda funny that it's run out of Columbus, Ohio. That's the home of B&BW. Gotta be some relationship, I would think, even if it's only spill-over of localized talent and supply chain into new businesses. B&BW is HUGE in the industry now. Is Columbus becoming the Grasse of America? Or is Michael Malul the Hollister of niche perfumery? Or both?

 

[Red Hawk]

I'm really getting what's going on here, now. Ashton is basically acting in an industry job, post-internet.

When I got my industry tour back in the day, and met people in a variety of job types, one of the really awesome jobs was the evaluator. They're basically like olfactory defense attorneys for the brief. When a brief comes in from a client, the evaluator interfaces between client and perfumer as a skilled, trained nose who "speaks perfume" but can also represent the client's interest. They're responsible for client satisfaction. They push the perfumers to get it right. In the same way that attorneys interface normies to the realities of the system through a representative voice, evaluators try to get the best and most satisfactory product to the client and beyond that, to the client's customer base, knowing most of the realities of perfumery, in large part by simply being familiar with product possibilities.

The evaluator who I met, loved her job. She started out (long before the internet was a thing) as a very knowledgeable perfume shopper, and basically found her dream job of judging perfume for a living.

This is the same thing that they did with Diddy, most notably with Unforgivable. He counted up the mods he smelled - over 600 - to get the product that he wanted. He likely worked with an evaluator, but he was acting primarily as an evaluator himself, which often happens with a very hands-on client. When the client is a celebrity who is only interested in cashing a check and sniffing a few mods, the industry evaluator does all the heavy lifting. When the client is highly involved, the evaluator may do a lot less, because evaluation has basically shifted directly to the client.

Now @ihxb01 makes a great point. Niche. This is exactly what has happened with these new niche brands led by perfume-savvy cultural representatives, who have a certain taste, and speak perfume for that taste, representing their stylistically devoted cultural bases, often grown on the internet. This includes some pricey new brands, that people associate with a more upscale and international crowd. Ashton is doing that same thing, for a different crowd that is more male, more American, more Midwestern and Southern, and more openly internet-based. In some ways, he's pulling the evaluator and critic functions out of the Andy Tauer Facebook Perfumery model and running that job on YouTube for a different clientele - people who like the Gent Scents channel - while the perfumery is dropped back into the industry for a professional product.

I can really see it in the product. Jet Black Enigma had a lot of the features of pricier brands, but the "note separation" as Bigsly calls it - which one could also call note identifiability - is strong. That's an old-school trait, enjoyed by people who love perfume, but it tends to get polished out of luxe products where je ne sais quoi has more value. This speaks to the development process, IMO. It's a stronger fragrance, for perfume-heads who don't want a shy fragrance, has many of the features more often found in pricier brands, but doesn't really have the mass appeal of an AdG or a BdC. At the same time, it lends itself to conversation, a plus in the clientele.

Kinda funny that it's run out of Columbus, Ohio. That's the home of B&BW. Gotta be some relationship, I would think, even if it's only spill-over of localized talent and supply chain into new businesses. B&BW is HUGE in the industry now. Is Columbus becoming the Grasse of America? Or is Michael Malul the Hollister of niche perfumery? Or both?

Fascinating perspective. It sounds like fragrance collectors like Ashton could very well work as evaluators themselves, and that's kind of what he's doing for Michael Malul. Also interesting to know that some celebrities are very closely involved with developing the fragrances sold under their names, while others are more hands off and just want the money from the license deal.

Anyways, got my travel size vials in today. They came in these little flannel bags, no cap to them. The atomizers are really nice though, satisfying pressurized spray. Sprayed them all on skin, though I can't really get a good feel for them because it's so dang cold, I've had the sniffles on and off lately and my nose isn't working quite right. But my initial impressions are that Blue Ridge is quite a bit sweeter than I was expecting, not at all sharp or piercing. Sweet blue. Very appealing, it's a shame though that it's so darn cold and I want to save it for warmer weather! Terra Nova is not as sweet as I was expecting, at least not up top. It's greener and drier, from the bergamot and lemon leaf. Also super pleasant. Looking to wear this in the coming week. Also going to be wearing Jet Black Enigma, the weather right now is perfect for that one.

 

[gerbick]

I got my hands (err... nose) on this at a perfume outlet at a local outlet... and it's not bad at all. I'd sorta call this a shot directly in the middle of Bleu de Chanel, Dylan Blue, Missoni EDP, but with enough of its own character. It comes off initially as strong, with a rush of notes, but it dies down to something wholly comfortable and different enough to probably gain a spot in my collection. Finding myself wearing blue fragrances more and more whenever I just want to chill out and lounge around the house.

 

[ihxb01]

the evaluator. They're basically like olfactory defense attorneys for the brief. When a brief comes in from a client, the evaluator interfaces between client and perfumer as a skilled, trained nose who "speaks perfume" but can also represent the client's interest. They're responsible for client satisfaction. They push the perfumers to get it right. In the same way that attorneys interface normies to the realities of the system through a representative voice, evaluators try to get the best and most satisfactory product to the client and beyond that, to the client's customer base, knowing most of the realities of perfumery, in large part by simply being familiar with product possibilities.

Such a good description. Much better than I once got from an actual evaluator, thats for sure. She posted on her Telegram channel a diagram how they work with a brief. I’ve asked where is the perfumer on the diagram and she banned me for good. Explaining the ban (not to me) she said a phrase I will never forget: “A perfumer is a part of the team... but not always participates in the creation of a perfume.”

Well, we kind of noticed.

 

[Redneck Perfumisto]

Such a good description. Much better than I once got from an actual evaluator, thats for sure. She posted on her Telegram channel a diagram how they work with a brief. I’ve asked where is the perfumer on the diagram and she banned me for good. Explaining the ban (not for me) she said a phrase I will never forget: “A perfumer is a part of the team... but not always participates in the creation of a perfume.”

Well, we kind of noticed.

Oh, wow. I almost have no words. You asked the most pertinent question possible. What the........

But in defense of the profession, let me just note that the evaluator I met showed great humility, and felt truly honored and blessed to work with perfumers. So that will be how I choose to remember them.

 

[Redneck Perfumisto]

Got a chance to try these, as well as the new "feminines" mentioned.

Blue Ridge didn't really strike my fancy, but I immediately liked Terra Nova. It has a light, cedar-ish woody accord, that reminds me of the woods in Terre d'Hermes, with a touch (but not too much) of TdH Eau Intense Vetiver in the mix. It has a nice, subtle but powerful, woody sillage. In that respect it's a lot like Timbuktu. But this is its own woody accord. Probably rich in norlimbanol - not going to please everybody. Not a blind buy, IMO, but I think a lot of people will like it. It's a bit of a cigar-box odor. Very addictive.

I think Ashton's characterization of Blue Ridge as being like YSL Y is probably right. Y never really won me over. I will keep working on Blue Ridge and see if it grows on me. I am a fan of Fabrice Pellegrin's work, including Wanted, which took me a bit of time to love. There may be hope.

The feminines are both good, and "young but adult", IMO. Siesta Key is more modern girly, with noticeable fruity and sweet notes, but very light, and I can almost pull it off.

Upper East is really great, IMO. Very unisex for Basenoters. The cardamom and suede feel a lot like the iris and benzoin of Prada feminines and their more powdery masculines, while the cardamom and vanilla feels like the tonka of Chanel masculines. It's a nice one. If I had to give it a gender, I'd call it "metro". Great stuff. VERY persistent on my skin.

More later, after I've worn them a bit.

 

[Scentologist]

The bottle aesthetic didn't do much for me and insofar as the description, it sounds more like dups of already great fragrances I own. Pass.

 

[gerbick]

I think Ashton's characterization of Blue Ridge as being like YSL Y is probably right. Y never really won me over. I will keep working on Blue Ridge and see if it grows on me. I am a fan of Fabrice Pellegrin's work, including Wanted, which took me a bit of time to love. There may be hope.

Funny... I sorta get the YSL Y comparison, but not entirely. But it has been a while since I've last intentionally smelled YSL Y, I get the comparison and can appreciate it. I still get a Versace Dylan Blue vibe first and strongest. Terra Nova is slightly better (I can admit that) but it doesn't hit a vibe where I'm currently at... but it's also good.