- Nov 22, 2019
If you didn't know what to look for those are good fakes, especially that Saint-Germain-des-Pres bottle. Not to the level of Kurkdjian fakes yet, but wow. Sad.
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Although Dior only expanded Slimane’s responsibilities to fragrance and beauty products a year ago, the designer began concocting a scent immediately. Indeed, when he opened his minimalist atelier at 40 Rue Francois Premier in 2001, “I wanted to have an odor that would feel and smell like Dior Homme,” said Slimane, who worked with Quest International and Firmenich on developing the formulas. The result was Cologne Blanche, which Slimane only now will commercialize. Cologne Blanche is a sweet scent intended for day wear, infused with rosemary from Provence, sweet orange from Portugal, Calabrian bergamot, orange blossom from Tunisia and vanilla pods from the Bourbon Islands. It corresponds to the architectural concept that inspired the atelier: accord built on the alternating balance of resonant notes.
Dans Paris is now also added on the list of fakes on the market now.There used to only be 5 (Parade, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Eau de Californie, Black Tie, and Nightclubbing). Now 2 more are joining the list (Cologne Française and La Peau Nue). They're still missing Dans Paris and Reptile. Fakes still are 100 mL bottles.
CB: You said Rimbaud took the longest of the 11 to finish and was “the most difficult because it was the simplest.” And that this scent captures the poet’s youth, correct? Why did you find it the most difficult to create?
HS: I discovered Rimbaud at age 14. I remember reciting “Le Dormeur du Val” with my friends. We were lying down in the grass during the Parisian summer. His poetry was always around me. I had the desire to approach the romantic myth of eternal youth in an olfactory way. How to express the idea of being 17 years old, the realm of possibilities, teenage subtle fragility but also the spleen? Working on this perfume, I had to recognize the emotions I felt growing up to adulthood. We did countless versions, and one day we found it.
What are your most important olfactory memories? Those of childhood? Those of adolescence? Were you a young "Rimbaud"?
HS: Aromatic notes, without a doubt. Mediterranean gardens from childhood. You talk about Rimbaud. I discovered the poetry of Arthur Rimbaud at 13-14 years old. A large number of teenagers, of which I was a part, identified with the young poet. I was obsessed with his melancholic portraits of youth. Rimbaud is a fragrance that will be released by Celine in 2020. It is naturally a perfume on eternal youth. It was a question of evoking the vital impetus, the fragility, but also the spleen of adolescence.
It’s a green hollow, where a river is singing
Crazily hanging on the grasses rags
Of silver; where the sun, from the proud mountain,
Is shinning: it’s a little valley bubbling with sunlight.
A young soldier, his mouth open, his head bare,
And the nape of his neck bathing in cool blue watercress,
Is sleeping; he is stretched out on the grass, under the skies,
Pale in his green bed where the light falls like rain.
Feet in the gladiolas, he is sleeping.Smiling like
A sick child would smile, he takes a nap:
Nature, rock him warmly: he is cold.
Fragrances do not make his nostrils quiver;
He sleeps in the sun, hand on the breast,
Peacefully. He has two red holes in his right side.
21st century fashion’s preeminent enfant terrible, Hedi Slimane, referenced Rimbaud in one of his first ever collections. The designer’s Dior Homme Spring 2002 collection was titled “Boys Don’t Cry,” and in the program notes, Slimane included the final stanza of the Rimbaud poem “Le Dormeur du Val.” The poem is about a beautiful young soldier lying in the grass, a pure vision of peace. In that final Slimane-selected stanza, Rimbaud reveals the soldier actually has two red holes in his side—that despite having a childlike smile on his face, and sun all over his skin, he’s already been killed.
The poem works perfectly for Slimane’s collection, which is full of teen spirit, shirtless models, and varying motifs of violence. Most memorably, there were gunshot wounds embroidered over the heart of several dress shirts, dripping in red sequins—love wounds on these boys who don’t cry. This bloody, violent heartache seeps through Slimane’s work. It’s that visualization of not knowing how to articulate young heartbreak because it’s so overwhelming, so apocalyptic. As Rimbaud wrote, when still a teenager, “Idle youth, enslaved to everything; by being too sensitive I have wasted my life.”
So it seems like Rimbaud was pushed back and won't be released in 2021. I wonder if Rimbaud was pushed back to justify another round of price increases. I wonder if the 6 candles were also pushed back from the November launch, so they will launch all 8 together in 2022.I finally got the information!
RIMBAUD, the new work of the Celine Haute Parfumerie Collection, will be released in early 2022.
Travel spray will also be available in gold and silver! You can easily carry your favorite scent with the 15ml refill exchange type 🤤
Eight types of candles will be released.
Good news for the holiday season!
travel sprays look lovely. any notes for the Rimbaud yet?
If this is correct, then this might be Hedi's version of Caron's Pour un Homme, which is a fragrance he's been wearing since 11.Fragrance notes via Parfumo
I'm a bit surprised by the notes but my interest is piqued, I'm on a lavender binge as of lately.
The notes make it seem very cuddly, not sure I would associate that with Rimbaud and his biography.
CREATED BY HEDI SLIMANE, RIMBAUD IS ENRICHING THE CELINE PERFUME COLLECTION. THIS NEW OPUS COMPLEMENTS THE NINE PERFUMES
ALREADY LAUNCHED IN 2019, COMPRISING:
LA PEAU NUE
EAU DE CALIFORNIE
LIKE THE OTHER CREATIONS IN THE COLLECTION, RIMBAUD REVIVES THE TRADITIONAL SAVOIR-FAIRE OF FRENCH HAUTE PARFUMERIE.
IT COMES TO JOIN THE DAY COLLECTION IN THE FRAGRANCE RANGE: PARADE, SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS, COLOGNE FRANÇAISE, DANS PARIS, LA PEAU NUE AND EAU DE CALIFORNIE
THE ESSENCE OF YOUTH AND ITS POETIC GRACE
FOR THIS PROJECT, THE COUTURIER RECONNECTS WITH HIS FAVORITE THEMES: THE NOTION OF IDENTIT Y BEYOND GENDER, THE ESSENCE OF YOUTH AND THE FRAGILITY OF A STATE SUSPENDED SOMEWHERE BETWEEN CHILDHOOD AND ADULTHOOD. BUT ALSO, THE FRENCH SPIRIT AND ITS CULTURAL ROOTS THAT WEAVE A CLASSIC FRAMEWORK PERPETUALLY REINVENTING ELEGANCE.
THESE THEMES WERE ALREADY AT THE HEART OF THE HAUTE PARFUMERIE COLLECTION, WHERE THE PERFUMES SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS AND DANS PARIS RELATE PARISIAN YOUTH, TOGETHER WITH PARADE CELEBRATING THE IMMUTABLE RITUAL OF APPEARANCES.
THE PROJECT’S CONCEPT IS ALSO AUGMENTED BY A CULTURAL ELEMENT, NOTABLY FRENCH LITERATURE AND POETRY. A TRIBUTE CRYSTALLIZED IN A NAME, RIMBAUD, WHICH TAKES ON A DOUBLY SYMBOLIC AND PERSONAL DIMENSION.
AN AUTOBIOGRAPHICAL CHAPTER IN THE OLFACTORY JOURNAL
LITERATURE AND WRITING ARE AN INTEGRAL PART OF THE COUTURIER’S ARTISTIC VISION, IN BOTH HIS INSPIRATIONAL AND CREATIVE APPROACH.
FOR HEDI SLIMANE, IT’S ABOUT PLACING WORDS SO THAT HE CAN OUTLINE HIS OLFACTORY PROJECT AND DEFINE THE FEATURES OF A CHARACTER WHOSE CHARISMA IS INTERPRETED IN THE PERFUME’S TRAIL.
THE CHARACTER IN THIS NEW PERFUME IS ARTHUR RIMBAUD. THE COUTURIER DEDICATES A NEW CHAPTER TO HIM IN HIS OLFACTORYJOURNAL RECOLLECTING AN EPISODE FROM HIS OWN ADOLESCENCE. LIKE GENERATIONS OF TEENAGERS, HE AND HIS FRIENDS WERE FASCINATED BY THE YOUNG POET’S IMAGE. AN IMAGE THAT ALREADY SEEMED TO BE ONE OF ETERNAL AND UNIVERSAL YOUTH.
HEDI SLIMANE HAS ALWAYS WANTED TO CREATE A PERFUME ILLUSTRATING THIS PORTRAIT OF RIMBAUD OR THE PHOTOS OF THE YOUNG MEN AND WOMEN HE HAS TAKEN OVER THE LAST THIRTY YEARS OR SO.
A DELICATE AND NEO-CLASSIC DUALITY
RIMBAUD RECAPTURES THE STYLISH CODES OF THE COUTURIER, IN PARTICULAR MASCULINE-FEMININE AND NEO-CLASSIC LITERATURE.
AT THE HEART OF THE COMPOSITION, TWO NOTES CONTRAST AND REVISIT TOGETHER TWO EMBLEMATIC ACCORDS IN PERFUMERY; LAVENDER WHOSE AROMATIC FRESHNESS IS TRADITIONALLY USED IN MEN’S SCENTS AND THE ROOTS OF THE IRIS, KNOWN IN PERFUMERY AS ORRIS, USUALLY WITH MORE FEMININE POWDERY ACCENTS.
IN THIS PERFUME , EVERY THING PLAYS ON PARADOX AND DUALIT Y. LAVENDER’S UNEXPECTED AND DELICATE NUANCES BECOME SOFT AND MELANCHOLIC IN CONTACT WITH IRIS PROUDLY DISPLAYING ITS EXUBERANCE, AS IF INTOXICATED BY THE PROMISE OF A NEW OLFACTORY ADVENTURE. CHOSEN BY HEDI SLIMANE, THE DUO SIGNS A DELICATE, ALMOST INTROVERTED CRAFTSMANSHIP, A FORM OF OLFACTORY FRAGILITY, SUSPENDED OUTSIDE OF TIME, CLINGING LIGHTLY TO THE SKIN. LAVENDER ONE OF HEDI SLIMANE’S FAVORITE INGREDIENTS, IT ALREADY SIGNED HIS OLFACTORY CREATION EAU NOIRE FROM THE MAISON DIOR’S COLLECTION PRIVÉE IN 2004.
WITH ITS VIVACIOUS AND SUBTLE CAMPHOR-LIKE SCENT, LAVENDER IS AN ARCHETYPE FOR MASCULINE FRAGRANCES. FOR RIMBAUD, IN DUO WITH ORRIS FROM THE RHIZOMES OF THE IRIS, IT REVISITS THIS TRADITION IN REVERSE. AT THE HEART OF THE COMPOSITION, THE NOTION OF THE ACCORD’S GENDER VERY DELICATELY GIVES WAY TO THE MULTITUDE OF FEELINGS RESOUNDING IN EACH ONE OF US.
THE ESSENCE, AS WELL AS THE LAVENDER ABSOLUTE SELECTED BY THE MAISON CELINE, COMES FROM THE DRÔME IN HAUTE PROVENCE WHERE THE PLANT HAS BEEN CULTIVATED SINCE ANTIQUITY. IT IS THANKS TO THIS FLOWER THAT WE OWE THOSE VAST AND ENDLESS FIELDS OF BLUE LAVENDER BLOSSOMING UNDER THE PROVENCAL SUN. THE SPRIGS OF LAVENDER ARE HARVESTED BETWEEN THE MONTHS OF JULY AND AUGUST WHEN
THE FLOWERS BEGIN TO BLOOM AND DIFFUSE THEIR PERFUME. SO THAT THEY DON’T LOSE ANY OF THEIR OLFACTORY SUBTLETY, THEY ARE TREATED AT
THE FOOT OF THE FIELDS IMMEDIATELY AFTER HARVESTING. 100KG OF FLOWERS ARE NEEDED TO OBTAIN BETWEEN 500 AND 800ML OF ESSENTIAL OIL.
THE IRIS IS ANOTHER ONE OF THE COUTURIER’S MUCH VALUED MATERIALS. ITS ELEGANT FRAGRANCE WAS ALREADY A PREDOMINANT OLFACTORY NOTE IN DIOR HOMME CREATED IN 2004. ITS GENTLE AND MUTED SCENT IS EMBLEMATIC OF THE POWDERY ACCORD SIGNING ALL THE CREATIONS IN THE CELINE HAUTE PARFUMERIE COLLECTION.
ORRIS, ONE OF THE MOST PRECIOUS INGREDIENTS IN PERFUMERY, IS OBTAINED FROM THE RHIZOMES OR ROOTS OF THE IRIS. IT OWES ITS RARITY TO ITS LOW CROP YIELD: 100KG OF DRIED RHIZOMES ONLY YIELD 300 GRAMS OF ORRIS BUTTER.
IT TAKES SIX YEARS TO OBTAIN THE ESSENTIAL OIL KNOWN IN PERFUMERY AS “ORRIS BUTTER”. IT IS NECESSARY TO WAIT PATIENTLY FOR THREE YEARS SO THAT THE PLANT, WHICH CONCENTRATES ITS PERFUMES IN ITS RHIZOMES, CAN BE HARVESTED. THEN ANOTHER THREE YEARS, THE TIME IT TAKES FOR THE RHIZOMES TO UNFOLD THEIR EXTRAORDINARY OLFACTORY RICHNESS.
THE POWDERY SIGNATURE
A POWDERY THEME CONNECTING ALL OF THE CREATIONS IN THE HAUTE PARFUMERIE COLLECTION IS ALSO TO BE FOUND IN THIS COMPOSITION, GUIDED BY THE IRIS AND ITS ELEGANT ROUNDNESS. A GENTLE AND IMPERCEPTIBLE VEIL OF SCENT, PERHAPS THE ONE IN THE PORTRAIT OF THE YOUNG POET,
STILL AN ADOLESCENT, BUT BURNISHED BY THE YEARS AND THE EYES OF GENERATIONS FASCINATED BY HIS MELANCHOLY GRACE.
THE RECTANGULAR B OT TLE DESIGNED BY HEDI SLIMANE FOR CELINE IS IN KEEPING WITH THE GRE AT TRADITION OF FRENCH GLASSMAKING.
THE COUTURIER WISHED TO GIVE THE BOTTLE GREATER B ODY, BY WORKING ON THE LUXURIOUS WEIGHT OF GLASS AND THE BLACK LACQUER.
THE BOTTLE FOR THE CELINE HAUTE PARFUMERIE COLLECTION IS DECORATED ON T WO SIDES WITH SHARP-EDGED FLUTING AND TOPPED WITH A FACETED BLACK LACQUERED CAP. AN AESTHETIC INHERITED FROM LATE 17TH CENTURY CLASSICISM, WHOSE DISTINCTIVE MINIMALISM IMBUES THE B OT TLE WITH THE MODERNITY OF ART DECO: SPARE , TAUT LINES, A TOUCH OF BLACK LACQUER AND TRANSPARENT GLASS WHOSE CRAFTSMANSHIP HIGHLIGHTS THE REFLECTIONS OF THE PERFUME , NUANCED WITH SOFT AND VERY PALE ROSY GREY TONALITIES, THAT UNDERLINE THE DELICACY OF THE COMPOSITION AND THE P OETIC CHARACTER INSPIRING IT.
THE BOX IS ADORNED IN PAPER WITH A “GRAIN DE POUDRE” FEEL AND EMBOSSING THAT RECRE ATES THE EFFECT OF 17TH CENTURY MOLDINGS. THEY ARE INSPIRED BY THE WOODWORK PANELING IN THE HÔTEL COLBERT DE TORCY WHERE THE CELINE ATELIERS ARE
HOU SED AT 16, R UE VIVIENNE IN PARIS.
THE MAISON’S EMBLEM, THE “TRIOMPHE” IS ENGRAVED ON THE TOP OF THE CAP. IT WAS CHOSEN BY ITS FOUNDER, CÉLINE VIPIANA WHO, ONE DAY IN 1971, SAW HER SPLIT INITIAL C DESIGNED IN THE LINKS CINCHING THE “ARC DE TRIOMPHE”. IT COMES TO COMPLETE THIS B OTTLE’S SENSE OF BELONGING TO THE HISTORY OF THE COUTURE HOUSE .
AT THE AGE OF 14, AFTER OUR LESSONS, MY FRIENDS AND I WOULD RECITE RIMBAUD’S LE DORMEUR DU VAL (THE SLEEPER OF THE VALLEY) LYING IN THE GRASS, BEFORE DIVING BODY AND SOUL INTO LES ILLUMINATIONS. LIKE OTHERS BEFORE AND AFTER US, WE WERE FASCINATED BY THE FRAGILITY AND GRACE OF THE YOUNG POET AND FELT HIS TORMENTS AS IF THEY WERE OUR OWN. I REMEMBER THAT PICTURE OF RIMBAUD WHICH I KEPT WITH ME RELIGIOUSLY. ALREADY, IT SEEMED TO ME TO BE THE IMAGE OF ETERNAL AND UNIVERSAL YOUTH. I HAVE ALWAYS WANTED TO CREATE A PERFUME THAT EVOKES UTOPIA, THE VERY ESSENCE OF YOUTH, ILLUSTRATING THAT PICTURE OF RIMBAUD, OR THE PHOTOS OF THOUSANDS OF YOUNG MEN AND WOMEN I HAVE MADE OVER THE LAST 30 YE ARS. IN AN OLFACTORY MANNER, I HAD TO DEFINE THE GRACE , THE SOUL- SE ARCHING AND THE SPLEEN OF ADOLESCENTS, TO DISTILL THE QUINTESSENCE OF YOUTH. I OPTED FOR DELICATE AND INTROVERTED ACCORDS, A KIND OF OLFACTORY FRAGILITY, SUSPENDED, OUTSIDE OF TIME, SKIMMING LIGHTLY OVER THE SKIN. LAVENDER, NEROLI, ORRIS BUTTER, WHEAT ACCORD, MUSK AND VANILLA NOTES
available exclusively in CELINE HAUTE PARFUMERIE boutique, 390 rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris, followed by a worldwide launch on January 21, 2022.
Dior Homme was created in 2005. Bois d'Argent, another Hedi fragrance with iris, was created in 2004.THE IRIS IS ANOTHER ONE OF THE COUTURIER’S MUCH VALUED MATERIALS. ITS ELEGANT FRAGRANCE WAS ALREADY A PREDOMINANT OLFACTORY NOTE IN DIOR HOMME CREATED IN 2004.