Need help with formula

[mrfragrance]

Hey guys,
I have so far put together this formula. My problem is that the perfume hardly smells. The smell lasts a long time but the range that the perfume has is very low. And the smell is very light. What would you recommend? What is the reason for the low range of the fragrance? Would you change something in the formula?

This is my formula so far:

Prototype 4	Drops	%
Ambroxan 10%	22​	11,83%​
Hedione High-Cis	12​	6,45%​
Iso E Super	12​	6,45%​
Galaxolide 50%	12​	6,45%​
Polysantol	11​	5,91%​
Calone 10%	8​	4,30%​
Sea&Water Accord	8​	4,30%​
Vanillin	6​	3,23%​
Pear Accord	6​	3,23%​
Coumarin	4​	2,15%​
GRAPEFRUIT F-TEC	4​	2,15%​
AMBER F-TEC	4​	2,15%​
Bergamot EO	3​	1,61%​
Ethyl Butyrate	3​	1,61%​
Vertofix	3​	1,61%​
Terpinyl Acetate	3​	1,61%​
Linalyl Acetate	3​	1,61%​
Leather Accord	3​	1,61%​
Pachouli	3​	1,61%​
Evernyl	3​	1,61%​
Allyl Amyl Glycidate	3​	1,61%​
I-IRIS F-TEC	3​	1,61%​
Ultralia	3​	1,61%​
Vetiver Essential Oil	3​	1,61%​
Saffranal 10%	3​	1,61%​
NEROLI F-TEC	3​	1,61%​
ORRIS F-TEC	3​	1,61%​
ARABIAN OUD F-TEC	3​	1,61%​
Ethylene Brassylate	2​	1,08%​
Geranyl Acetat	2​	1,08%​
Ethyl Linalool	2​	1,08%​
cis-3-Hexenol	2​	1,08%​
Cedramber	2​	1,08%​
cis-3 Hexenyl Acetate 10%	2​	1,08%​
Ylang Ylang EO	2​	1,08%​
L-Carvone 10%	2​	1,08%​
Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate	2​	1,08%​
Blue Chamomile EO 10%	2​	1,08%​
Aurantiol	2​	1,08%​
Magnolan	2​	1,08%​
Fructone B	2​	1,08%​
Myrac Aldehyde + Methyl Anthranilate 1:1	1​	0,54%​
Lemon EO	1​	0,54%​
Ambrettolide	1​	0,54%​
Sum	186​	100,00%​

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks guys!

 

[mnitabach]

You have much too little support for strong-smelling top & mid effects. This is almost all base.

 

[Ymsldn]

hey mrfragrance, I get the frustration, I am also new and this has happened to me too.

I could well be wrong but i think you could benefit from more prominence in your heart notes, e.g. the ylang ylang EO. You have high iso e super, hedione and ambroxan but I think these are more functional materials and dont cut through the mix as much. You have lots of base notes which explains why it lasts long but may be costing you the projection.

Curious to see what the more experienced members will say.

 

[mrfragrance]

You have much too little support for strong-smelling top & mid effects. This is almost all base.

Okay thank you for the advice. I will give it a try and will use more top & mid notes

 

[Ymsldn]

Also look at this post:

https://basenotes.com/threads/help-with-performance-and-synergy-of-formula.533904/post-5838194

 

[julian35]

Because some of your materials are diluted (most are at 100%) this is an accurate formula.
Hedione High-Cis, Iso E Super and Polysantol make up 25% of your formula.

 

[mnitabach]

A few more thoughts:

(1) That is almost certainly an absolutely ridiculous amount of polysantol; santal materials like that have the ability to shut down an entire composition in overdose, even tho they don't smell super strong themselves.

(2) The entire thing looks like an unstructured hodgepodge of randomly selected materials that have no rhyme or reason. This is a recipe for indistinct mud.

(3) Ask yourself what are your olfactory goals with this formula. Every single material in there should have a describable tangible purpose towards achieving that goal. A huge amount of santal, sea/water, vanillin, pear... Oud, orris/iris, neroli, leather, vetiver on a huge foundation of sea/water... These seem like very disconnected dissonant combinations that are very very unlikely to create interesting synergies/contrasts. And there are way too many different directions simultaneously Like what is the vision???

(4) Huge amounts/numbers of what seem to be commercial bases/accords make it nearly impossible to troubleshoot without prior extensive study of each of them separately.

(5) There are way too many degrees of freedom in your entire formula to have any hope of "fixing" it without stripping it down to WAAAAY fewer and WAAAAY simpler materials that establish the basic structure, getting it performing well, and only then elaborating the complexities & subtleties.

 

[PeeWee678]

Also: that's a lot of polysantol with the potential to smother your composition. I would cut it down to 1%.

---

EDIT: I posted this before reading Mike's post (posted it practically at the same time).

 

[mrfragrance]

Because some of your materials are diluted (most are at 100%) this is an accurate formula.
Hedione High-Cis, Iso E Super and Polysantol make up 25% of your formula.

View attachment 337344

Thanks for your help!

 

[mrfragrance]

A few more thoughts:

(1) That is almost certainly an absolutely ridiculous amount of polysantol; santal materials like that have the ability to shut down an entire composition in overdose, even tho they don't smell super strong themselves.

(2) The entire thing looks like an unstructured hodgepodge of randomly selected materials that have no rhyme or reason. This is a recipe for indistinct mud.

(3) Ask yourself what are your olfactory goals with this formula. Every single material in there should have a describable tangible purpose towards achieving that goal. A huge amount of santal, sea/water, vanillin, pear... Oud, orris/iris, neroli, leather, vetiver on a huge foundation of sea/water... These seem like very disconnected dissonant combinations that are very very unlikely to create interesting synergies/contrasts. And there are way too many different directions simultaneously Like what is the vision???

(4) Huge amounts/numbers of what seem to be commercial bases/accords make it nearly impossible to troubleshoot without prior extensive study of each of them separately.

(5) There are way too many degrees of freedom in your entire formula to have any hope of "fixing" it without stripping it down to WAAAAY fewer and WAAAAY simpler materials that establish the basic structure, getting it performing well, and only then elaborating the complexities & subtleties.

I will strip down the ingredients and will have a look into synergies. Like you said I just randomly mixed the ingredients. Thanks for your help!

 

[mrfragrance]

Also: that's a lot of polysantol with the potential to smother your composition. I would cut it down to 1%.

---

EDIT: I posted this before reading Mike's post (posted it practically at the same time).

I will reduce the amount of Polysantol. Thank you for your help!

 

[julian35]

My first impression was there are too many items in this formula for someone who is just beginning. Keep your formulas simple and direct. As others have indicated, understand why you are adding ANY material. You MUST have intention and understanding with each item. Your existing formula is far to large and unmanagable. Please reduce it down to 5(MAX) ingredients and start again.

 

[ScentAle]

Seems a bit too much a mix of all with not really clear direction and with too many ingredients maybe not useful there, and with no cohesion. Do you have in mind an idea of the final smell that you would like to reach?

 

[mrfragrance]

My first impression was there are too many items in this formula for someone who is just beginning. Keep your formulas simple and direct. As others have indicated, understand why you are adding ANY material. You MUST have intention and understanding with each item. Your existing formula is far to large and unmanagable. Please reduce it down to 5(MAX) ingredients and start again.

Yeah you are right. With just a few ingredients, it is much easier to produce a good scent than with +50, which seems very difficult

 

[mrfragrance]

Seems a bit too much a mix of all with not really clear direction and with too many ingredients maybe not useful there, and with no cohesion. Do you have in mind an idea of the final smell that you would like to reach?

Hi,
I would like to have a mix of citrus fruits with green fruits like apple and pear in the top note.

In the heart note I want to create a floral freshness with a with a subliminal water/ozone note. Which, however, does not smell too feminine because the perfume is intended for men.

The base notes should make the whole masculine and should be a mixture of woody, amroxan, musk and amber notes.