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Maple sweetness without the curry

Filipsson

Member
Dec 28, 2015
194
20
I am looking for a sweet material that would work in a resinous forest blend. Something leaning to a dark kind of sweetness, and highly saturated/pungent/ample (I am a bit unsure about the best english word here). I have some, of course the vanillic, coumarinic, benzoinic ones. I have some sugary ones, where strawberry furanone is the most extreme one, and a "homey fleuressence", which is some kind of blend, but actually not thst far from what I am searching for. I have fruity, apply, rummy, lactonic, flowery ones, but none really what I am looking for. Recently I started checking for maple syrupy materials, which attract my interest. The syrup in syrupy, if that is a realistic expectation, may be what I am looking for.

But I seem to stumble across immortelle and helichrysum a lot, when searching. And the curry note keeps appearing, in descriptions of those. I got myself some fenugreek a while ago, which by some is described as spicy-sweet. Even boozy, which is another of my ambitions to find materials for. But it was not at all what I expected, as it is rather stewy with a prominent curry note. One that easily dominates a formula.

So I wonder if some of you can point me in a direction towards some really sweet materials. Not at all light, not caramel or candy-cotton, but mature, dark, and fitting a dense, resionus forest scent.

All the best
Pelle
 

rococo

New member
Jan 1, 2010
92
94
I think you should really check out immortelle! I am not sure what’s meant by a curry note, since things called curry can contain and be defined by so many different spices and aromatics. But I don’t get any of curry leaf, star anise, or cumin in immortelle, just an ethereal maple syrup with maybe the smallest aspect of warm spices without truly evoking spice. Maybe this could be called curry-like but I don’t see it

Immortelle is beautiful and won’t dominate a formula through the top and heart at all. But it does need some other strong players in the dry down if you want it to end up smelling like anything but maple.
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
13,531
2,342
Immortelle is a natural with great range of odor profiles from both extraction type and location/ COO.

I would look for Immortelle EO or Absolute from Corsica for this need.

You have not yet seem to have explored Beeswax absolute, get some of that.

You can use the fenugreek absolute in a tiny amount in your deep sweet accord, I think.

Would also suggest some Galaxolide and Muscenone.
 

jfrater

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 2, 2005
3,059
1,915
I am looking for a sweet material that would work in a resinous forest blend. Something leaning to a dark kind of sweetness, and highly saturated/pungent/ample (I am a bit unsure about the best english word here). I have some, of course the vanillic, coumarinic, benzoinic ones. I have some sugary ones, where strawberry furanone is the most extreme one, and a "homey fleuressence", which is some kind of blend, but actually not thst far from what I am searching for. I have fruity, apply, rummy, lactonic, flowery ones, but none really what I am looking for. Recently I started checking for maple syrupy materials, which attract my interest. The syrup in syrupy, if that is a realistic expectation, may be what I am looking for.

But I seem to stumble across immortelle and helichrysum a lot, when searching. And the curry note keeps appearing, in descriptions of those. I got myself some fenugreek a while ago, which by some is described as spicy-sweet. Even boozy, which is another of my ambitions to find materials for. But it was not at all what I expected, as it is rather stewy with a prominent curry note. One that easily dominates a formula.

So I wonder if some of you can point me in a direction towards some really sweet materials. Not at all light, not caramel or candy-cotton, but mature, dark, and fitting a dense, resionus forest scent.

All the best
Pelle
Given that you are talking about a resinous forest, I wonder whether you might find fir balsam useful for this - and maybe blue cypress. Both have a lovely sweetness in them. Also patchouli - a good dark one is very sweet and would fit nicely into the context of what you describe.

Also, to add to Paul's suggestion about fenugreek, another fenugreek material that is intensely sugary if dosed right (and when dosed right you can avoid the fenugreek nuance) is sotolone (AKA sugar lactone). Usually used in food. And that raises another point: don't necessary shy away from food materials - sometimes flavour products work well in small amounts in perfume. Aventus has a pineapple flavour as part of its overall fruity note.
 

Flavorsthenfrags

Active member
May 18, 2020
105
26
Another material used in flavors that would fit is cyclotene. It's mapley, without the fenugreek. Brown, sweet, and slightly burnt sugar.
 

Flavorsthenfrags

Active member
May 18, 2020
105
26
Given that you are talking about a resinous forest, I wonder whether you might find fir balsam useful for this - and maybe blue cypress. Both have a lovely sweetness in them. Also patchouli - a good dark one is very sweet and would fit nicely into the context of what you describe.

Also, to add to Paul's suggestion about fenugreek, another fenugreek material that is intensely sugary if dosed right (and when dosed right you can avoid the fenugreek nuance) is sotolone (AKA sugar lactone). Usually used in food. And that raises another point: don't necessary shy away from food materials - sometimes flavour products work well in small amounts in perfume. Aventus has a pineapple flavour as part of its overall fruity note.
Jamie, do you know what makes up the pineapple accord? Allyl cap, ethyl cap, other esters?
 

editorinscent

New member
Oct 3, 2007
1,143
22
Another material used in flavors that would fit is cyclotene. It's mapley, without the fenugreek. Brown, sweet, and slightly burnt sugar.
+1, aka maple lactone, methyl cyclopentenelone. PA stocks it. It's probably as close to maple as you can get, slightly roasted smelling. No curry notes. Definitely a must have in your accord!
 

Filipsson

Member
Dec 28, 2015
194
20
Thanks a lot for the input, all.

Jamie, I have Fir balsam absolute and Blue Cypress, they are both wonderful. Infact I have worked with a fair amount of those foresty materials, most often absolutes, which I have come to enjoy more and more. I suppose you know this very well, but mostly as a tip to others: A great alternative to the full on sweet Fir balsam, is Blue Hemlock absolute, which I regard as very similar but less candy-sweet. Therefore somewhat more austere - fitting a more dramatic perfume, in my opinion.
And by the way: Does anyone have an opinon about Honey Provence Firabs? Would that be a suiting material in these attempts? Or is it just plain honey?

/Pelle
 

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