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Key Accords of famous fragrances

chyprefresh

New member
Jan 15, 2018
2,320
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I have a solid imitation of Acqua Di Gio Profumo, PM me if you want it, it's far from basic for this thread tbh.
 

Emanuel76

Well-known member
Jun 16, 2018
3,565
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That was just to say that the precise components and ratios of the classic perfumery accords are not set in stone and that whatever I give you will not be any sort of definitive or conclusive accord. But for fun here are some 4-6 material fragrance family accords to play with.

Fougere: lavandin (5%-15%), geranium eo (1%-5%), coumarin (2%-8%), amyl salicylate (1%-6%), hedione (5%-10%), tonalid (1%-5%)
Amber: bergamot (10%-25%), vanillin (0.5%-3%), ethyl vanillin (2%-4%), labdanum resinoid (0.5%-4%), rose abs (1%-5%), jasmine base (0.5%-2.5%)
Cologne: lemon (10%-20%), bergamot (5%-15%), bitter orange (1%-6%), petitgrain (1%-7%), cis 3 hexenol (0.05%-0.5%), basil (0.2%-1%)
Thanks a lot!

The problem...
No problem at all.
Very helpful.
I'll handle the rest.

In my understanding, the fougère accord absolutely requires mossy and/or woody/ambery effects. In particular, the interplay of mossy/woody/ambery with amyl/isoamyl salicylate effects is foundational.

OK
Let's say 2-5% Oakmoss, 1-4% Cedarwood.
Amber in what range would it be good? 2-5%?
 

jsweet

Active member
Sep 16, 2021
284
216
I like sandalwood and vertofix in a fougere. TF Beau de Jour uses cedramber. I don't think amber resins are used much in fougere. I don't personally like a detectable amount of oakmoss in my fougeres and personally like the effect of patchouli more than oakmoss in a fougere. Infinite variations really, go wild.
 

Emanuel76

Well-known member
Jun 16, 2018
3,565
1,030
I found this on TGSC while working on my aroma chemicals list.
Maybe someone will find it useful.

Violettyne (undeca-l,3-dien-5-yne), Neofolione (methyl non-2-enoate), or Undecavertol (4-methyldec-3-en- 5-ol) are the main materials used to replicate the effect of methyl heptyne carboxylate, most notoriously associated with Jean-Louis Sieuzac’s Fahrenheit (Dior, 1988).
 

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