Mak-7
Well-known member
- Sep 19, 2019
- 3,096
- 2,302
Today i am sharing my thoughts on the house of Kamila Aubre. Discovered accidentally and decided to give it a try.
Reviews are made by sniffing composition first, writing down notes and feeling, and then adding description and notes from the site.
Here we go!
Priesse:
To me it is a Benzoin, Labdanum and vanilla fragrance with a slight muskiness, which translates into powderyness. At one time it reminded me that starchy/bubblegum vibe of Lheure excuise by Bortnikoff. Dries down to almost pure smell of Benzoin.
Notes: botanical ambra blend, botanical musk, cocoa, jasmine, vanilla.
Blending the archaic, the carnal, the vital and, of course, the poetical. Inspired by Sappho’s poetry. Priesse is a 'perfume medium' which helps make any natural perfume last longer, become warmer and get an amazing depth. The fragrance is based on animalic notes (particularly ambra) recreated using botanical ingredients. The scent is leathery, musky, deep, balsamic, yet elegant with a touch of vanilla, jasmine and cocoa.
Sambaccus:
This perfume is in the territory of Le silage Blanc and probably bandit, but i never smelled the second one. Sambaccus is Jasmine and Galbanum mix, making jasmine less flowery, green and leathery. There is as well ylang which i am not a fan of, but here it is blended really nice, and it supports jasmine giving depth. cant detect other notes, but i would say base is ambery. Interestingly enough, galbanum and jasmine disappear middle of the wear, and leaves me with a very nice base. hard to describe it though.
Notes: galbanum, jasmine, ylang ylang, mimosa, tonka bean, labdanum.
Description doesn't make sense to me so ill skip this.
Vilanelle:
Vilanelle is a very vegetal perfume to me, like a celery dill smoothie, sitting on a warm woody/myrrh base that shifts it from being uber shallow and juicy perfume to one with a deeper base. No Artistry or creativity here. Dislike.
Notes: bergamot, marjoram, lavender, violet, blackcurrant, clary sage, vetiver, frankincense.
A poem, a song, a fragrance, a character, an identity… Villanelle blends a pastoral theme with an obsessive dark image of the subject...
Sachet de Senteurs:
This one is like a lavender neroli perfume with the smell of a Vitamin C tablets piercing through the composition(maybe mandarin or orange). Once again i smell a bit of Benzoin or cinnamon at the base. Slightly musky. I think so far it is one i like the most, but in Grand scheme of perfumes, it is rather basic summer cologne.
Notes: mandarin, rose, lavender, patchouli, orris root, violet.
When rose, iris, violet and lavender interact with your skin chemistry, they create a marvelous silage around you: pure, live, pristine filled with a mellow, musky rose aroma… Emily Dickinson’s manuscripts had been hidden for many years before they were discovered by her sister after her death. Lyrical and nostalgic poems and letters contained many flower names among other essential themes such as immortality and death. Sachet is a tribute to one of the most talented and timeless poets.
Parfum d'Esthetique:
I thought this might be my new favourite, but i was wrong. i want to say its flowery, white/yellow with Ylang being the star to my nose. It has some soapy and warm base that glitters. Geranium maybe causes that glitter? Start was rather interesting, where aromas sparkle around without any distinct flower, then it went to Ylang, and fell flat at base, which i cant even describe. Next!
Notes: jasmine, rose, geranium, mimosa, violet, magnolia, iris, carnation.
Inspired by vintage & antique botanical art and early botanical still life photography, the scent reveals the beauty of classic florals, such as rose, jasmine, violet, mimosa, etc., in a lush fragrance bouquet.
Ella&Lili:
This one has a rather interesting start reminiscent of orange and chocolate with a pinch of cardamom. Too bad it is so brief. once this perfume moves into heart, it is an indistinct green, vegetal, mushroomy smell that is not at all pleasant. remind me on essential oils and natural products section of grocery store. Has quite a projection, and gave me a headache.
Notes: black tea, cardamom, black pepper, cloves, cocoa, coffee, porcini, botanical musk & leather.
The perfume is a study of jazz and its place in arts. From Ma Rainey and Bessie Smith, to Nina Simone and Diana Krall, the scent encompasses a complex blend of female artists who express themselves in one common language. Balancing on the verge of music and verse, the scent embodies an endless epoch, a female voice in jazz.
Gloire de Dijon:
Yes, its not about Mustard. Once again it gives me a smell of Ylang. Whatever she is mixing, it sure is not my style. Its rather piecing, camphorous with woody rooty backbone. Heart turns flowery, but still too much for me. Washed it off. ( Reading description, i really hope to not meet a woman whos skin smells like this perfume.)
Notes: rooibos, white tea, white rose, cepes, orris, vetiver.
Reflections on the frailty of the moment, impetuous and languid... Gloire de Dijon is a combination of subtle tea rose accords and dark earth nuances, soft rosy and beige, the color of pristine skin as a woman wakes up... Inspired by elusive female portraits as captured by D.H. Lawrence in Gloire de Dijon poem and the nude series by A. Modigliani.
Redbird:
Slightly powdery, rooibos like. After 3 minutes ginger appears. Very spicy and zesty. With some time, a little bit of vanilla like facet appears, giving a gentle sweetness to the composition, as well as a berry like effect - cool and sour. Soft in Projection. At first smelled like chai, then transformed to smell like dried fruit mix. Not very interesting but not bad.
Notes: linden, cardamom, black pepper, may chang, tagetes.
Go through the poems of Mary Oliver, learn attention, love for nature, see the birds leaving and returning to the black ponds, go for long walks in the woods, watch whales and shellfish, all essential, all vital; stay present and be aware of the moment.
Soliloquy:
This one is something green, soft, almost coniferous but there is no camphorous backbone, distantly powdery and mothball like. Spices enter, in territory of clove or cinnamon. This one morphs fast from green and fresh to brown, warm and slightly spicy. Deeper drydown has something like slight smokiness and mushrooms, but rather noble and soft. Smell of mushrooms tickle my nose, so i usually tend to detect them but cant be sure on that here. This one was very strong at first, but dies down to skin scent level pretty fast. not very interesting.
Notes: green tea, seaweed, cypress, cepes.
One of the perfumes which was composed based on the color palette of the ingredients, a synesthesia of perfume making or 'painting' a fragrance. Inspired by the sea theme and one of the greatest British novels, The Waves by Virginia Woolf, Soliloquy is a monologue of which the whole work consists. Slow, following the rhythm of the nature, waves and the lives of protagonists...
Sonnet 98:
This one is herbal(basil, thyme, oregano, bay leaf), rather camphorous(either camphor, or coniferous leaves used), green and yellow(champaca again or flower that is similar in vibe) in color. Woods are in the base give a bit of a wet stump smell, maybe coming from cedar and vetiver, or cedar and geosmin. After a few sniffs i felt bitter aftertaste on my tongue. Perfumes of this type are very unpleasant to me. Sorry but not willing to take the assault longer.
Notes: sage, basil, thyme, ginger, may chang, cypress, geranium Bourbon, olibanum, vetiver.
The scent of earth, leafage, roots, soil and morning dew drops... Reflecting on time, change, aging, lust and love, Sonnet 98 blends natural and human life cycles, creating elusive poetic 'figures of delight' of the main character... Inspired by a spring sonnet 98 by Shakespeare.
Summer 1928:
I am very happy this is the last one of the series. Yellow flower(ylang - you all are prob tired of me mentioning this flower, but God knows i hate the smell of it, so even anything slightly reminiscent of it makes me cringe), probably lavender(not friends with it either)and very indistinct background. Must be very flowery composition, no woods, no smoke, no big spices. Very faintly something like linden blossom peaks through. This one is very bad as well, so i also quit on this one.
Notes: magnolia leaf, ginger, bergamot, tagetes, mimosa, lavender, green cognac.
Rich and mellow, made of wild flowers, dreams, nostalgic moments... Bitter floral, honey and tea like, with a touch of golden apples and heady summer noons, dandelion wine is an epitome of our childhood days. 'June dawns, July noons, August evenings...
I had to test this line in 2 takes, part because there are 11 samples, and i don't have enough skin to properly test them all at one take, and because i didn't like the line. I absolutely love how their instagram page is done, GREAT PHOTOGRAPHY, bottles are the style i enjoy, simple and to the point, but God are these compositions bad. Most accurate description i can give is 'Hippy perfumery' - rather simple and without any interesting twists. At these moments i really think, should i be criticizing Bortnikoff and Ensar?
From her website she writes:
Kamila Aubre is a photographer and an independent botanical perfumer. She graduated from Lancaster University with a major in Social and Political Sciences.
All of the fragrances use a slow movement approach - mindful practices, connection with the objects and materials, choosing quality over quantity and micro batches and/or limited editions.
The perfumes are made of 100% natural, vegan and sustainable aromatic materials. They are inspired by an intersection of different art forms, including poetry, jazz, cinematography, painting, etc.
Our perfumes have around 20-25% of natural aromatic materials in, we simply call them ‘perfume’ but according to perfume standards they are considered extraits de parfum, this is why classic French flacons are the best for this concentration.
Thats it i suppose. You can agree or not, this is my take.
If any one else have tried it, please leave your impressions.
Thanks for reading
Reviews are made by sniffing composition first, writing down notes and feeling, and then adding description and notes from the site.
Here we go!
Priesse:
To me it is a Benzoin, Labdanum and vanilla fragrance with a slight muskiness, which translates into powderyness. At one time it reminded me that starchy/bubblegum vibe of Lheure excuise by Bortnikoff. Dries down to almost pure smell of Benzoin.
Notes: botanical ambra blend, botanical musk, cocoa, jasmine, vanilla.
Blending the archaic, the carnal, the vital and, of course, the poetical. Inspired by Sappho’s poetry. Priesse is a 'perfume medium' which helps make any natural perfume last longer, become warmer and get an amazing depth. The fragrance is based on animalic notes (particularly ambra) recreated using botanical ingredients. The scent is leathery, musky, deep, balsamic, yet elegant with a touch of vanilla, jasmine and cocoa.
Sambaccus:
This perfume is in the territory of Le silage Blanc and probably bandit, but i never smelled the second one. Sambaccus is Jasmine and Galbanum mix, making jasmine less flowery, green and leathery. There is as well ylang which i am not a fan of, but here it is blended really nice, and it supports jasmine giving depth. cant detect other notes, but i would say base is ambery. Interestingly enough, galbanum and jasmine disappear middle of the wear, and leaves me with a very nice base. hard to describe it though.
Notes: galbanum, jasmine, ylang ylang, mimosa, tonka bean, labdanum.
Description doesn't make sense to me so ill skip this.
Vilanelle:
Vilanelle is a very vegetal perfume to me, like a celery dill smoothie, sitting on a warm woody/myrrh base that shifts it from being uber shallow and juicy perfume to one with a deeper base. No Artistry or creativity here. Dislike.
Notes: bergamot, marjoram, lavender, violet, blackcurrant, clary sage, vetiver, frankincense.
A poem, a song, a fragrance, a character, an identity… Villanelle blends a pastoral theme with an obsessive dark image of the subject...
Sachet de Senteurs:
This one is like a lavender neroli perfume with the smell of a Vitamin C tablets piercing through the composition(maybe mandarin or orange). Once again i smell a bit of Benzoin or cinnamon at the base. Slightly musky. I think so far it is one i like the most, but in Grand scheme of perfumes, it is rather basic summer cologne.
Notes: mandarin, rose, lavender, patchouli, orris root, violet.
When rose, iris, violet and lavender interact with your skin chemistry, they create a marvelous silage around you: pure, live, pristine filled with a mellow, musky rose aroma… Emily Dickinson’s manuscripts had been hidden for many years before they were discovered by her sister after her death. Lyrical and nostalgic poems and letters contained many flower names among other essential themes such as immortality and death. Sachet is a tribute to one of the most talented and timeless poets.
Parfum d'Esthetique:
I thought this might be my new favourite, but i was wrong. i want to say its flowery, white/yellow with Ylang being the star to my nose. It has some soapy and warm base that glitters. Geranium maybe causes that glitter? Start was rather interesting, where aromas sparkle around without any distinct flower, then it went to Ylang, and fell flat at base, which i cant even describe. Next!
Notes: jasmine, rose, geranium, mimosa, violet, magnolia, iris, carnation.
Inspired by vintage & antique botanical art and early botanical still life photography, the scent reveals the beauty of classic florals, such as rose, jasmine, violet, mimosa, etc., in a lush fragrance bouquet.
Ella&Lili:
This one has a rather interesting start reminiscent of orange and chocolate with a pinch of cardamom. Too bad it is so brief. once this perfume moves into heart, it is an indistinct green, vegetal, mushroomy smell that is not at all pleasant. remind me on essential oils and natural products section of grocery store. Has quite a projection, and gave me a headache.
Notes: black tea, cardamom, black pepper, cloves, cocoa, coffee, porcini, botanical musk & leather.
The perfume is a study of jazz and its place in arts. From Ma Rainey and Bessie Smith, to Nina Simone and Diana Krall, the scent encompasses a complex blend of female artists who express themselves in one common language. Balancing on the verge of music and verse, the scent embodies an endless epoch, a female voice in jazz.
Gloire de Dijon:
Yes, its not about Mustard. Once again it gives me a smell of Ylang. Whatever she is mixing, it sure is not my style. Its rather piecing, camphorous with woody rooty backbone. Heart turns flowery, but still too much for me. Washed it off. ( Reading description, i really hope to not meet a woman whos skin smells like this perfume.)
Notes: rooibos, white tea, white rose, cepes, orris, vetiver.
Reflections on the frailty of the moment, impetuous and languid... Gloire de Dijon is a combination of subtle tea rose accords and dark earth nuances, soft rosy and beige, the color of pristine skin as a woman wakes up... Inspired by elusive female portraits as captured by D.H. Lawrence in Gloire de Dijon poem and the nude series by A. Modigliani.
Redbird:
Slightly powdery, rooibos like. After 3 minutes ginger appears. Very spicy and zesty. With some time, a little bit of vanilla like facet appears, giving a gentle sweetness to the composition, as well as a berry like effect - cool and sour. Soft in Projection. At first smelled like chai, then transformed to smell like dried fruit mix. Not very interesting but not bad.
Notes: linden, cardamom, black pepper, may chang, tagetes.
Go through the poems of Mary Oliver, learn attention, love for nature, see the birds leaving and returning to the black ponds, go for long walks in the woods, watch whales and shellfish, all essential, all vital; stay present and be aware of the moment.
Soliloquy:
This one is something green, soft, almost coniferous but there is no camphorous backbone, distantly powdery and mothball like. Spices enter, in territory of clove or cinnamon. This one morphs fast from green and fresh to brown, warm and slightly spicy. Deeper drydown has something like slight smokiness and mushrooms, but rather noble and soft. Smell of mushrooms tickle my nose, so i usually tend to detect them but cant be sure on that here. This one was very strong at first, but dies down to skin scent level pretty fast. not very interesting.
Notes: green tea, seaweed, cypress, cepes.
One of the perfumes which was composed based on the color palette of the ingredients, a synesthesia of perfume making or 'painting' a fragrance. Inspired by the sea theme and one of the greatest British novels, The Waves by Virginia Woolf, Soliloquy is a monologue of which the whole work consists. Slow, following the rhythm of the nature, waves and the lives of protagonists...
Sonnet 98:
This one is herbal(basil, thyme, oregano, bay leaf), rather camphorous(either camphor, or coniferous leaves used), green and yellow(champaca again or flower that is similar in vibe) in color. Woods are in the base give a bit of a wet stump smell, maybe coming from cedar and vetiver, or cedar and geosmin. After a few sniffs i felt bitter aftertaste on my tongue. Perfumes of this type are very unpleasant to me. Sorry but not willing to take the assault longer.
Notes: sage, basil, thyme, ginger, may chang, cypress, geranium Bourbon, olibanum, vetiver.
The scent of earth, leafage, roots, soil and morning dew drops... Reflecting on time, change, aging, lust and love, Sonnet 98 blends natural and human life cycles, creating elusive poetic 'figures of delight' of the main character... Inspired by a spring sonnet 98 by Shakespeare.
Summer 1928:
I am very happy this is the last one of the series. Yellow flower(ylang - you all are prob tired of me mentioning this flower, but God knows i hate the smell of it, so even anything slightly reminiscent of it makes me cringe), probably lavender(not friends with it either)and very indistinct background. Must be very flowery composition, no woods, no smoke, no big spices. Very faintly something like linden blossom peaks through. This one is very bad as well, so i also quit on this one.
Notes: magnolia leaf, ginger, bergamot, tagetes, mimosa, lavender, green cognac.
Rich and mellow, made of wild flowers, dreams, nostalgic moments... Bitter floral, honey and tea like, with a touch of golden apples and heady summer noons, dandelion wine is an epitome of our childhood days. 'June dawns, July noons, August evenings...
I had to test this line in 2 takes, part because there are 11 samples, and i don't have enough skin to properly test them all at one take, and because i didn't like the line. I absolutely love how their instagram page is done, GREAT PHOTOGRAPHY, bottles are the style i enjoy, simple and to the point, but God are these compositions bad. Most accurate description i can give is 'Hippy perfumery' - rather simple and without any interesting twists. At these moments i really think, should i be criticizing Bortnikoff and Ensar?
From her website she writes:
Kamila Aubre is a photographer and an independent botanical perfumer. She graduated from Lancaster University with a major in Social and Political Sciences.
All of the fragrances use a slow movement approach - mindful practices, connection with the objects and materials, choosing quality over quantity and micro batches and/or limited editions.
The perfumes are made of 100% natural, vegan and sustainable aromatic materials. They are inspired by an intersection of different art forms, including poetry, jazz, cinematography, painting, etc.
Our perfumes have around 20-25% of natural aromatic materials in, we simply call them ‘perfume’ but according to perfume standards they are considered extraits de parfum, this is why classic French flacons are the best for this concentration.
Thats it i suppose. You can agree or not, this is my take.
If any one else have tried it, please leave your impressions.
Thanks for reading
