Interchangeable EDPs & EDTs.

[kosui no kaori]

@kosui no kaori , you always start the most interesting threads!

Thank you so much, dear @Salumbre ❤️!

 

[Ken_Russell]

So far, have found Habit Rouge EDT and EDP, but also Boucheron pour Homme EDT and EDP almost identical in terms of both scent and performance.
Without inferring that the EDT is weaker in both cases, this version actually being quite strong for either, while the EDP more moderately projecting and toned down.

 

[Schubertian]

As a chamber music aficionado, I would to some extent disagree with monsieur Kurkdjian: paring down the instrumentation can result in a more intense emotional experience of the music. Not always of course. (By way of example: I prefer the string sextet version of Schönberg's Verklärte Nacht to the orchestral one.)

Now for the topic... I haven't found a completely interchangeable EDT/EDP pairing. Sorry. Realise that wasn't a very useful contribution.

 

[Varanis Ridari]

Your episode was so informative, and I learned a lot.

I loved the intro (no bodega cats?!), and your sense of humor is fantastic. It’s great to put a face to the name!

I appreciate it.

 

[imm0rtelle]

As a chamber music aficionado, I would to some extent disagree with monsieur Kurkdjian: paring down the instrumentation can result in a more intense emotional experience of the music. Not always of course. (By way of example: I prefer the string sextet version of Schönberg's Verklärte Nacht to the orchestral one.)

A lot of the times, less is more. I don't like overly "dense" compositions as it feels like things can get too muddy when there is too much going on. However, I suspect this is an unpopular opinion, and most people think the "answer" is chasing after more and more complexity. Precision, purity, clarity, and refinement are qualities that I'm attracted to. I feel like this is the exact opposite of what a lot of people on Basenotes like (in food and fragrances).

Another analogy I like to use to describe the vibe of the type of fragrances I like is food, like nouvelle cuisine or Japanese kaiseki.

Nouvelle cuisine is an approach to cooking and food presentation in French cuisine. In contrast to cuisine classique, an older form of haute cuisine, nouvelle cuisine is characterized by lighter, more delicate dishes and an increased emphasis on presentation. It was popularized in the 1960s by the food critic Henri Gault, who invented the phrase, and his colleagues André Gayot and Christian Millau in a new restaurant guide, the Gault-Millau, or Le Nouveau Guide. The style Gault and Millau wrote about was a reaction to the French cuisine classique placed into "orthodoxy" by Escoffier. Calling for greater simplicity and elegance in creating dishes.

Gault and Millau discovered the "formula" contained in ten characteristics of this new style of cooking. The ten characteristics identified were:

• A rejection of excessive complication in cooking.
• Cooking times for most fish, seafood, game birds, veal, green vegetables, and pâtés were greatly reduced in an attempt to preserve their natural flavours. Steaming was an important trend from this characteristic.
• The cuisine was made with the freshest possible ingredients.
• Large menus were abandoned in favour of shorter menus.
• Strong marinades for meat and game ceased to be used.
• Heavy sauces such as espagnole and béchamel were replaced by seasonings with fresh herbs, high-quality butter, lemon juice, and vinegar.
• Regional dishes replaced cuisine classique as a source of inspiration.
• New techniques were embraced and modern equipment was often used; Bocuse even used microwave ovens.
  
  
  
  
  

Often considered to be the haute cuisine of Japan, kaiseki traditionally consists of nine courses (though one can find variants with anywhere from six to 15 courses). Each course is defined by a particular cooking method, and typical courses may include:

• Sakizuke: similar to the French amuse bouche, this first course is usually something pickled to whet the diners' appetite for the courses to follow
• Hassun: this course marks the seasonality of the meal
• Suimono: a soup course made with a dashi broth base; it is revered as the most important course in a kaiseki sequence—and the mark of a chef’s ability
• Tsukuri: a sashimi course
• Yakimono: a grilled course
• Takiawase: a simmered dish, typically of vegetables mixed with some meat
• Shokuji: a rice course (gohan), served with miso soup and pickles
• Mizugashi or Mizumono: a platter of Japanese sweets or fruits
  
  

 

[kosui no kaori]

So far, have found Habit Rouge EDT and EDP, but also Boucheron pour Homme EDT and EDP almost identical in terms of both scent and performance.
Without inferring that the EDT is weaker in both cases, this version actually being quite strong for either, while the EDP more moderately projecting and toned down.

Interesting, thank you!

 

[kosui no kaori]

As a chamber music aficionado, I would to some extent disagree with monsieur Kurkdjian: paring down the instrumentation can result in a more intense emotional experience of the music. Not always of course. (By way of example: I prefer the string sextet version of Schönberg's Verklärte Nacht to the orchestral one.)

Now for the topic... I haven't found a completely interchangeable EDT/EDP pairing. Sorry. Realise that wasn't a very useful contribution.

This was actually a very thought-provoking contribution - so very useful indeed 🙂

 

[Zenwannabee]

I seldom find EDTs and EDPs similar. Maybe D&G The One EDT and EDP might fit this bill.

However, I like the variations on a theme concept. Personally I much prefer Glenn Gould’s 1981 version of Bach’s Goldberg Variations to his 1955 version, but both are simply amazing. And ultimately it’s up to the wearer to determine whether they prefer the EDT, EDP, or other compositions. As much as I love Terre d’Hermes Parfum, to read reviews of it here, many lovers of the EDT see the Parfum version as heresy, a waste of money, or both. But l wear and love both depending on the occasion and my mood, and revel in their separate qualities.

Overall as a fragrance enthusiast I appreciate the range of differences in EDT and EDP formulations—even with the prevailing trend for these to become part of a nearly endless proliferation of flankers used by big companies to flog product. If I really like an EDT, I’m usually like the kid in a candy store, waiting for the EDP and hoping for that next “wow!” experience.

 

[kosui no kaori]

I love the “variations on a theme” concept as well.

I hadn’t thought of it like that. Both @Varanis Ridari and @Zenwannabee have used this term, and it clicked.

 

[kosui no kaori]

A lot of the times, less is more. I don't like overly "dense" compositions as it feels like things can get too muddy when there is too much going on. However, I suspect this is an unpopular opinion, and most people think the "answer" is chasing after more and more complexity. Precision, purity, clarity, and refinement are qualities that I'm attracted to. I feel like this is the exact opposite of what a lot of people on Basenotes like (in food and fragrances).

Another analogy I like to use to describe the vibe of the type of fragrances I like is food, like nouvelle cuisine or Japanese kaiseki.

These are both beautiful analogies as well.

 

[Varanis Ridari]

I love the “variations on a theme” concept as well.

I hadn’t thought of it like that. Both @Varanis Ridari and @Zenwannabee have used this term, and it clicked.

Even just an exact increase of oil to alcohol will shift how a scent wears, making some notes push up, others recede. It's just the nature of things.

Brands usually have to re-equalize a higher or lower concentration just to get the materials to play together properly in a wear, regardless if they're shooting for a similar or different wear experience from another concentration.

 

[kosui no kaori]

Even just an exact increase of oil to alcohol will shift how a scent wears, making some notes push up, others recede. It's just the nature of things.

Brands usually have to re-equalize a higher or lower concentration just to get the materials to play together properly in a wear, regardless if they're shooting for a similar or different wear experience from another concentration.

That’s fascinating.

I’ve learned so much from this thread - far more than I expected.

May I ask - do you work professionally with perfume, or does all of your knowledge stem from being a hobbyist/collector?

 

[Varanis Ridari]

That’s fascinating.

I’ve learned so much from this thread - far more than I expected.

May I ask - do you work professionally with perfume, or does all of your knowledge stem from being a hobbyist/collector?

The latter, and talking to perfumers high and low.

 

[kosui no kaori]

The latter, and talking to perfumers high and low.

Wow!!

That’s insanely impressive.

 

[Toxicon]

Lots to learn from our esteemed colleagues for sure! I've only encountered a few EDT/EDP siblings that function as proper twins, but there's always some difference. One house I've been itching to try actually uses identical formulations in their EDTs and EDPs, just in different concentrations of fragrance to perfumer's alcohol - and has confirmed this in writing to several folks in this board - and that's Lorenzo Villoresi. Unfortunately not the easiest to sample here in the US, unless you order samples directly from the house or bite the bullet and do a blind buy. (I'll probably do the latter sooner or later, given the prices at discounters.) It's worth reading some reviews from @Andy the frenchy on the Villoresi scents as he often compares EDPs and EDTs, and its clear that just a difference in concentration can significantly shift how which notes are emphasized, how it wears, and so forth.

 

[kosui no kaori]

Lots to learn from our esteemed colleagues for sure! I've only encountered a few EDT/EDP siblings that function as proper twins, but there's always some difference. One house I've been itching to try actually uses identical formulations in their EDTs and EDPs, just in different concentrations of fragrance to perfumer's alcohol - and has confirmed this in writing to several folks in this board - and that's Lorenzo Villoresi. Unfortunately not the easiest to sample here in the US, unless you order samples directly from the house or bite the bullet and do a blind buy. (I'll probably do the latter sooner or later, given the prices at discounters.) It's worth reading some reviews from @Andy the frenchy on the Villoresi scents as he often compares EDPs and EDTs, and its clear that just a difference in concentration can significantly shift how which notes are emphasized, how it wears, and so forth.

This is amazing! I will definitely be looking up @Andy the frenchy ’s reviews on the Villoresi scents, as well as reading up on the fragrances themselves.

Thank you!

 

[PStoller]

Just dropping in to say I agree with and appreciate the comments of @Varanis Ridari and @Schubertian amongst others. I can’t say whether I generally prefer my fragrances to be “chamber” or “orchestral”; rather, I suspect it’s wholly dependent on the specific composition and variation. Verklärte Nacht may work better as a string quartet, but Le Sacre du Printemps is greater as an orchestral work than for piano four hands.

I haven’t decided about Pictures at an Exhibition, which raises another point. In some cases—with perfume and music—a different arrangement may come years after the original, and may not be by the original creator. That’s not necessarily bad (Ravel’s orchestration did a solid for Mussorgsky), but it can contribute to the differences in perfume concentrations, as with Chanel No. 5 EdP.

 

[Franco65]

Baccarat Rouge 540, imho....

 

[Ken_Russell]

Same phenomenon might happen with (mainly, but not exclusively) vintage Lancetti Uomo EDT and EDP

 

[kosui no kaori]

Same phenomenon might happen with (mainly, but not exclusively) vintage Lancetti Uomo EDT and EDP

Thank you!