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How to improves rose perfume odor Strength

David Ruskin

Well-known member
May 28, 2009
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Perfumery does take a long time. There is nothing wrong with having multiple ideas, but it is necessary to try them out individually or else you will not be able to judge which is successful.
 

jfrater

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Jun 2, 2005
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4% Ambrocenide and laevo rose oxide makes for one very, very expensive bar soap. Quite the luxury.
It does indeed! And don't forget the 2.5% Mysore sandalwood too :) But once you smell it - you understand why it is worth it.
 

fragrantregard

Well-known member
Aug 2, 2015
1,105
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I didn’t realize that was real sandalwood; I assumed it was a base because it links to your website.

Honestly, I am quite skeptical L-rose oxide as opposed to the racemic in wash off bar soap does very much (I assume it’s true soap, with an elevated pH?). Same for sandalwood oil, but I suppose at lease it might be nice on skin after wash. But I do admire the indulgence.
 

jfrater

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Jun 2, 2005
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Then we disagree.
(Of course it's always possible there could be something wrong with my sample of tetrahydrogeraniol, but I suspect this might come down more to personal perception. Just to clarify, you are saying that you think tetrahydrogeraniol adds something to rose blends that citronellol does not?)
Yes. Tetrahydrogeraniol is very different from citronellol and has a different function and set of abilities. It is definitely something to consider adding to blends of rose materials.
 

jfrater

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I didn’t realize that was real sandalwood; I assumed it was a base because it links to your website.

Honestly, I am quite skeptical L-rose oxide as opposed to the racemic in wash off bar soap does very much (I assume it’s true soap, with an elevated pH?). Same for sandalwood oil, but I suppose at lease it might be nice on skin after wash. But I do admire the indulgence.
I sell aromachemicals and naturals too :)
 

YogaNerdMD

Well-known member
Apr 10, 2013
323
53
I didn’t realize that was real sandalwood; I assumed it was a base because it links to your website.

Honestly, I am quite skeptical L-rose oxide as opposed to the racemic in wash off bar soap does very much (I assume it’s true soap, with an elevated pH?). Same for sandalwood oil, but I suppose at lease it might be nice on skin after wash. But I do admire the indulgence.
I get a nice lingering sandalwood scent with my government issue Mysore sandalwood soap and it's not just nice for the smell - sandalwood has dermatologic benefits as well!
 

parker25mv

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Oct 12, 2016
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I am also a betting man, and I would bet the house on the fact you have never purchased, were given or smelled “rose butanoate”.
It is a pretty obscure one that is hard to find.

rosebutanoate.jpg

If a picture is still not convincing enough, you can provide me with your address and I'll mail you a test strip so you can smell it.

(No, I would not say it smells very similar to "rose" overall, but there are a few aspects to its smell that are kind of rose-like in certain ways)
 

perfectscent

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2006
978
10
Depending on what type of rose, I would suggest you add some lily of the valley materials to boost floralcy in rose. I would strongly advise you against adding clove and patchouli together. This combination tends to make a sour smelling rose void of any sweetness which can only be partly balaced out by adding benzyl salycilate.
 
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parker25mv

Well-known member
Oct 12, 2016
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I would suggest you add some lily of the valley materials to boost floralcy in rose.
This is an excellent answer, but different muguet (lily of the valley) ACs can have very different smells. Do you have any specific suggestions for muguet ACs that you think go well with rose?
 

mnitabach

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Nov 13, 2020
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This is an excellent answer, but different muguet (lily of the valley) ACs can have very different smells. Do you have any specific suggestions for muguet ACs that you think go well with rose?
How muguet-attributed molecules "smell" has basically nothing to do with figuring out how to use them effectively in non-muguet floral accords. One can use relatively transparent ones (such as hydroxycitronellal or florol or lyral) in substantial doses to add structure or more opaque ones (such as lilytol/mayol or lilyflore) in traces to add volume. When dosed properly for these purposes in non-muguet floral accords, one doesn't "smell" them at all.
 

Westly_Weng

Member
May 28, 2023
21
11
Depending on what type of rose, I would suggest you add some lily of the valley materials to boost floralcy in rose. I would strongly advise you against adding clove and patchouli together. This combination tends to make a sour smelling rose void of any sweetness which can only be partly balaced out by adding benzyl salycilate.
thank you, I remembered some rose accord contain some hydroxycitronellal.
 

perfectscent

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2006
978
10
This is an excellent answer, but different muguet (lily of the valley) ACs can have very different smells. Do you have any specific suggestions for muguet ACs that you think go well with rose?
Yes, I used florol and dimethyl phenyl ethyl carbinol plus hydroxycitronellal. As far as top notes go I prefer triplal for a dewy/fresh impression.
 
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Westly_Weng

Member
May 28, 2023
21
11
Update the my research:
1)increase Citronellol/Rhodinol:The effect is not obvious;
2)increase Geraniol:The effect is not obvious,but I like the smell, more fresh.
3)patchouli oil:odor Strength get stronger , but smell more earthly;
4)clearwood:less earthly, but The effect is worse than patchouli oil,I like patchouli oil more;
5)decrease IES and hedione: it works,but i feel the smell does not blend well;
6) increase DAMASCONE:DAMASCONE beta/delta I try up to 10/1000(edited) ,it works,but there is a metallic smell in higher proportion; I like 5/1000-8/1000 DAMASCONE family.
7)dimethyl octanol:Yes,a bit coarse than Geraniol,i Feel more Dirty and citrus,10/1000 is OK,odor Strength have a little improve.
8)Javanol:interesting,1/1000 is OK,There is a smooth texture,The effect of odor Strength is not obvious.
9)hydroxycitronellal:Adds freshness to roses;
10) The infamous ethyl maltol:trace ethyl maltol increase huge odor Strength.

I realized that the structure of modern high odor rose perfumes is mostly that:
MUSK+A large number of Ambrox family + a large number of patchouli family + rose
 
Last edited:

mnitabach

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 13, 2020
4,746
2,411
Update the my research:
1)increase Citronellol/Rhodinol:The effect is not obvious;
2)increase Geraniol:The effect is not obvious,but I like the smell, more fresh.
3)patchouli oil:odor Strength get stronger , but smell more earthly;
4)clearwood:less earthly, but The effect is worse than patchouli oil,I like patchouli oil more;
5)decrease IES and hedione: it works,but i feel the smell does not blend well;
6) increase DAMASCONE:DAMASCONE beta/delta I try 5/1000,it works,but there is a metallic smell in higher proportion; I like 5/1000-8/1000 DAMASCONE family.
7)dimethyl octanol:Yes,a bit coarse than Geraniol,i Feel more Dirty and citrus,10/1000 is OK,odor Strength have a little improve.
8)Javanol:interesting,1/1000 is OK,There is a smooth texture,The effect of odor Strength is not obvious.
9)hydroxycitronellal:Adds freshness to roses;
10) The infamous ethyl maltol:trace ethyl maltol increase huge odor Strength.

I realized that the structure of modern high odor rose perfumes is mostly that:
MUSK+A large number of Ambrox family + a large number of patchouli family + rose
Thank you for reporting back these empirical observations! This is true perfumery practice!
 

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